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Baffled by all the tyre options!

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trisers
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Baffled by all the tyre options! Reply with quote

Wheeled the bike out to day to be greeted by a flat tyre oh joy...looks like its leaking on a previous plugged repair (i'm the second owner).

Tyre's almost worn out anyway (BT 015) so i'm now in the market for a pair.

Bikes a cbr1000rrb (2011) and the battleaxes were the OE standard fit, i'm no hooligan so i'm not looking for track performance...i'm proud to say my tyres have a 1" chicken strip and the rear looks like its also squared off a bit (yeah i'm a straight line hero Laughing )

So...what would the good BCF collective recommend as replacements for generally fair weather riding, sometimes in the damp, rarely in the cold, always on the road.

Not so worried about durability, more safety when i do give it the beans!
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

PR3 or 4. There's no point getting anything sportier if you won't use it and they're more than capable enough for road riding.
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Alex A
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd recommend Bridgestone S20EVOs. I've used them on four different bikes now, and can't fault them. They're very grippy (similar to Supercorsas IMO), but they also last well (especially when not ridden hard) , and work very well in the cold/wet. And they're ~£180 a pair from Oponeo!

If you do big miles, then some sport touring tyres might be better still, but even if you don't ride hard, you can never have too much grip.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you know it's leaking from the repair? It could be the valve.

For tyres I always get touring tyres as they last longer and less prone to squaring off on long runs. They normally have a dual compound so hard the middle for better life and soft at the sides for better grip in the corners.
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trisers
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh it's definitely leaking at the repair...can even feel it as well as hear it when i inflate the tyre Laughing
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not long since I fitted Bridgestone T30 Evos to my Fireblade. Seem ok but nothing like as grippy and confidence inspiring as S20's
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michelin PR3.

Excellent tyres in the wet and the dry and they last really well. They tend not to square off too badly which will be good for you Thumbs Up
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
Michelin PR3.

Excellent tyres in the wet and the dry and they last really well. They tend not to square off too badly which will be good for you Thumbs Up


Agreed, the PR4's are even better BUT PR2's if you want a longer lasting tyre with excellent general use abilities
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

trisers wrote:
Oh it's definitely leaking at the repair...can even feel it as well as hear it when i inflate the tyre Laughing


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Really.... bike tyres aren't supposed to be repaired/plugged.
For (sometimes less than obvious) safety reasons.
It is fine to plug/patch 'ride with care' (to get home) and find a replacement tyre ASAP.

Baaaat.... I have plugged tyres before and ran them to the wire without any kittens being harmed. Shifty

I used 'Tyreleader' for my last two pair of tyres. If you can find someone to fit and balance they can be 'very' cheaper than bike shops.
But it can be a bit more hassle.
Many ways to save if you remove the wheels yourself. But you will even need some basic unique equipment for that too. (unless you do ghetto.)
Ultimately, buy the tools if you think tyres will be a common practice for you.

My 2p worth. You will probably find many reputable 'big' brands will have a tyre to do the same thing and you won't notice much difference. If you don't push the tyre to it's limits.
Budget tyres probably won't do anything for your peace of mind. Smile
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Budget tyres probably won't do anything for your peace of mind. Smile


I was quite surprised by just how well the Maxxis super diamonds performed (especially as they were the first brand I tried after 3 sets of Michelin Power Pilots), I think they only broke out on the rear end twice in their lifetime - once in the wet and once in the dry.

But I've found that you can get really good buys with secondhand tyres - just put a PR2 on the rear for less than £20 with 4mm all round. It was slightly squared off which I seem to have rounded back to good with a 300+ motorway trip (Not sure how that works but I'm not going to be unhappy about it ) Smile

(That is the tenth rear tyre I've put on there since I bought her 5 years ago, the last two being seconds Sad )
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
MCN wrote:
Budget tyres probably won't do anything for your peace of mind. Smile


I was quite surprised by just how well the Maxxis super diamonds performed (especially as they were the first brand I tried after 3 sets of Michelin Power Pilots), I think they only broke out on the rear end twice in their lifetime - once in the wet and once in the dry.


I agree they will probably perform as a tyre should but there are lots of riders will slate a brand because their ability was out gunned their confidence. Smile

(2nd hand OK but not race scrubs for a pootle bike)
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-Monty-
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for the PR3. Got them on my Speed Four and have done many motorway miles on the continent, with no sign of squaring yet, and excellent grip on the twisty roads.
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BigDan1190
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for PR3 or PR4. Just no need for any other tyre for road riding.

For anyone who begs to differ and says they need something stickier - if you're pushing these so hard that they slip, you need to be on a track.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Really.... bike tyres aren't supposed to be repaired/plugged


Says who?

Not the tyre manufacturers for sure. Also not according to BSAU159f, not the British Tyre Manufacturing Association either.
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waffles
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would also recommend PR3's, I've had mine for 10,000 miles and they are still good for plenty more. Mine had done two track days, one holiday to the continent for a thrash and commuting along motorways plus the usual weekend trips. They are just ever so slightly starting to square off. They handle equally well in wet and dry and have given me a lot of confidence in my bike Thumbs Up
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

waffles wrote:
I would also recommend PR3's, I've had mine for 10,000 miles


10K Shocked
So jealous, I can't seem to get much more than 3500 (3800 tops)out of a rear welly (fronts don't last much longer!)
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trisers
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 23:36 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well my BT015's have lasted about 6k (half of that in my time of ownership)...there's still more than 1k left in the front.

Having read all the suggestions i think i'll go with the PR3's...read a few reviews online and they generally seem to reflect the great BCF collective so thanks for all the input Thumbs Up
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you want a good compromise and want to stick with the bridgestones, S20 Evo Front and a 190/55 T30 rear. The R1 came with S20s and I liked angular profile they had. If the S20 is agile, I'd say the T30 is more stable. What have the guys said over at fireblades.org?

PR3's generally get a good nod, but I've been happy with the combo of S20/T30. I think I'll be trying Pilot Roads when my tyers are due next year.
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staffo
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

M7RR's. Sports touring tyre, but good enough for trackdays/knee downs and good wet grip. most get around 8k out of fastish riding.

Switched from supercorsa's that i got 3k out off and not missed them yet.
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waffles
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
waffles wrote:
I would also recommend PR3's, I've had mine for 10,000 miles


10K Shocked
So jealous, I can't seem to get much more than 3500 (3800 tops)out of a rear welly (fronts don't last much longer!)


I'm very suprised by how good mine look considering the mileage! The sides are a bit munched up but I swear down on my left trainer that I had them fitted at a little over 10k and have just passed 20k.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

waffles wrote:

I'm very suprised by how good mine look considering the mileage! The sides are a bit munched up but I swear down on my left trainer that I had them fitted at a little over 10k and have just passed 20k.


The PR3's went to canvas marginally slower than the PR4's - to be quite honest I find they are more comparable with the Pilot Powers than with a touring tyre.
Michelin seem to have forgotten that they have a range of tyres for hooning and have sacrificed longevity for stickiness (which is very nice unless you happen to drive a tyre munching tank and need as much life out of a pair of wellies as is sensibly possible)

I think tyres go through so fast with me because:
1) I'm a fat bastard with an itchy throttle hand
2) The bike's a fat bastard hooligan with a responsive throttle Wink
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DJP
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

PR2/3/4 on anything purely road-going. Smile
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gonzo1
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 28 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It really is a matter of trial and error......a particular tyre that works well on one bike may not work well on another, so recommendations are based on a particular riders bike.Also,dual compound tyres are a bit decieving,the harder compound in the middle is actually no harder than normal......it's just that the edges are softer than normal.So don't be fooled into thinking that if you buy a dual compound tyre that it will square off more slowly than a good quality single compound because it won't.If you don't like leaning into corners too much,dual compound tyres are not worth the extra money,stick with a good quality single compound.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 29 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many big bike tyres are dual compound nowadays it seems.To buy a single compound tyre would mean being much more selective.

As to what tyre suits which bike,so many people that I know have opted for the PR3s that I now have them fitted to both my Exup1000 and my R1.This decision was mainly guided by a friend who has had them fitted to his '07 Blade for many years.

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Bikes/20150415_181032_zpsbnmjjnrx.jpg
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/20150717_155252_zpsrtw3qgkp.jpg

During a recent ride we were not hanging about and I was pleased that I had the confidence to really push the bike through its paces.

I have heard about PR4 fronts not giving the same feedback as the PR3,but all the time that I can buy a PR3 120/70x17 for £72 and a 180/55x17 for £92 then I will continue to buy and fit those.

As for fitting new tyres,it is easy with the right tools Wink
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 29 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haven't read the replies but I'll just n+1 any PR3/PR4 recommendations.
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