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| kickflare |
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 kickflare Derestricted Danger
Joined: 22 Sep 2015 Karma :   
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| Michelle L |
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 Michelle L Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 08 Aug 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 06:11 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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OOOWWWW I bet it feels like Christmas , just 19 more sleeps then its happy days
I have never had a brand brand new bike before , a 6 months old but never off the shop floor , I am not that rich ..
I think you got everything , I mean the bike will come tip top anyway but even with new ish bikes , I always check oil level every day but that's just me..
Enjoy your new bike  ____________________ Ride safe , if you can not ride safe , ride free.... |
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| pompousporcup... |
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 pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :   
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 Posted: 07:25 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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do you have a tool kit? not the shitty one that comes with the bike but a decent set of spanners/screwdrivers is a must (imo) when owning any bike
if its brand spanking new, i'd leave the brake/oil expense until a time you genuinely need it, chain lube/oil is a must though
As its coming up to the salty time of year, get some ACF50 and get the entire bike a good layer of it  |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:25 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: Re: New bike incoming! |
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| kickflare wrote: | I already have 19mm chain and disc lock. |
| kickflare wrote: | chain cleaner and lube |
I use paraffin as cleaner when I can be bothered. Some people use diesel.
Lube is again whatever you feel like using. Used engine oil is a favourite. I use clean engine oil, since you're only putting pennies worth on. Heavier gear or chainsaw oil is probably better, but it's mostly going to fling off anyway.
| kickflare wrote: | engine oil 10w40 i think the bike takes |
Yup, although really it'll "take" just about anything. No need for bike specific oil, just don't use fancy car oil with friction reducers. The cheaper the better, really.
Given that it'll only take a litre or so don't skimp on the changes. There's much debate about the merits of the Mototune method of running in - https://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm - but the important part of it is do an early oil change. I mean literally ride it home (baby it or thrash it, your choice) then change the oil. Get out any initial chippings and swarf. Then change early and often for the first few thousand miles before settling down to a regular schedule.
| kickflare wrote: | brake fluid.... I cant think of anything more... |
You won't need brake fluid, it takes years to go off.
A 3/8" socket set and some spanners and screwdrivers will see you right, no need to go overboard. At the first sign of any sort of electrical gremlins, a £5 multimeter will instantly pay for itself.
Oh, I'd replace the spark plug with an NGK equivalent.
Anything that works loose, LocTite it. Anything that you remove that's meant to come out, put some copper grease on it before replacing.
And yes, ACF-50. I really do recommend it. It's expensive, but it's cheaper than the parts that it's protecting. Spray can is fine, or you can buy a 950ml bottle that will last you for year after year on multiple bikes, and apply it with a cloth or brush.
Other than that, just work on losing the L plates.  ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Andy_Pagin |
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 Andy_Pagin World Chat Champion

Joined: 08 Nov 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:32 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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One of the problems with Chinese bikes is that the chrome is a bit thin. I'd get a big can of WD40 and give the shiny bits a wipe over with a WD40 soaked rag on a regular basis. You'll need to keep on top of cleaning to avoid rust, especially with winter and salty roads on the horizon.
Get down to your local tat-shop and get a selection of brushes, bottle brushes are good for knooks and crannies and cooling fins, a fingernail brush with a handle loop makes a good scrubber for chain cleaning and a bristle dish-washing brush with a long handle for the hard to reach bits.
For chain cleaning I'd recommend paraffin, way cheaper than 'proper' chain cleaner. Don't forget to re-lube after cleaning.
Security wise, do you have something to chain the bike onto? If not then a ground anchor is a good investment. ____________________ They're coming to take me away, ho-ho, hee-hee, ha-haaa, hey-hey,
the men in white coats are coming to take me away.
Yamaha Vity -> YBR125 -> FZS600 Fazer -> FZ1-S Fazer |
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| pompousporcup... |
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 pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :   
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:09 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: Re: New bike incoming! |
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| sharpe2002 wrote: | assumed break in/running in procedure would have been done before point of sale |
The engine might have been started up and run in the factory, but I wouldn't bet on it.
Bear in mind that they ship with bone dry tanks and carbs. Mine was actually shipped standing vertically.
The dealer may start it up and give it a quick rev, or they may not. Or they might send Trevor out to absolutely wring the nuts off of it for a few kilometres. You aren't going to know, so ride it home however you want, and then change the oil. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Michelle L |
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 Michelle L Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 08 Aug 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 11:17 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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Just had a look on google , nice looking bike  ____________________ Ride safe , if you can not ride safe , ride free.... |
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| NJD |
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 NJD World Chat Champion

Joined: 11 Mar 2015 Karma :    
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| Beehive Bedlam |
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 Beehive Bedlam World Chat Champion
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Karma :     
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 16:17 - 01 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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A big bag of M6 nyloc nuts
A medium bag of M8 nyloc nuts
A small bag of M10 nyloc ut
A large bag of bag of assorted M6 allen screws (in high-tensile-steel, not stainless... stainless wont look 'better', it'll just stand out more as everything else rusts around it, and then be a right pita to remove, especially from 'blind' holes in things like engine casings)
A Medum bag of M6 bolts in assorted lengths
A small bag of M8 bolts in assorted lengths
A few M10 bolts in 'long' you can cut to length.
A larger bottle of Loctite thread-lock
A Big pot of Coppa-Grease
TWO sets of good qualty SPANNERS - not sockets, SPANNERS.. nuts and bolts.. you need one on each, remember! Good qualty are properly sized; have a decent area of 'land' to grip the fastener; and stay sized when you put force o them. Drect acting they pt force direct to the fastener, in the direction you apply it, hopefully to make it turn, rather than chew the head or slip off, and give most 'feel' to avoid you slipping, chewing or shearing.
A Decent set of PLAIN, not 'multi-bit' screwdrivers; nothing fucks a screw faster than the wrong or a crap screwdriver. And NEVER use them to punch or pry or lever shit!
A Good set of Allen Keys
A Hammer
A few pairs of pliers large pin-nose, short pin-nose, general bull-nose
A pair of Vice Grips - NOT to be used as an adjustable spanner!!!
A Multi-Meter .. favour analogue, & dont have t be 'fancy' for auto-electrcs, I have a couple of £5 ones lying around, to hand.
A Sodering Iron & solder
Some Japanese Standard bullet conectors from VWP & some insulation tape
And a Roll of 5A wire.
A Haynes Manual for all Chinese Four-Stroke 125cc motorcycles..
If you don't have a centre stand, a paddock stand will be a very helpful addition to the list.
And you ought to be able to tackle most that might happen with that lot.
Where you start, on a brand new bike; is up to you... most likely place will be tightening / replacing frame and body fasteners as they work loose... adding nylocks and or thread-loc, and/or replacing the bolt when you have found the head rounds before it stays tight... I'd be tempted to replace as many of those fasteners as I could see / find before they started coming loose and I had to try finding holes, but that's your call.
Routine maitenence, by way of oil-changes and stuff are all listed, and have instructions n the Haynes Book of Spanner-Humor.
I would probably do a full service, as soon as I got it home; oil-change, tappets; chain & sprockets; I'd probably, also have a good look at the forks, make sure that they have remembered to put fork oil in them.... look at the wheel bearings, make sure there's grease in the bearings; that sort of thing' then oil the control-cables, and set the adjustment, as I worked round adjusting the controls to where they are most comfy for me to work them....
THEN ought just be a case of riding the damn thing, and keeping on top of the maintenance; a good once over every month, or week-end depending how often t's used.
Little & Often, and bikes SHOULDN'T need an awful amount of looking after, and even less 'fixing'.... ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| kickflare |
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 kickflare Derestricted Danger
Joined: 22 Sep 2015 Karma :   
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| Stalk |
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 Stalk Brolly Dolly

Joined: 26 Dec 2005 Karma :   
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| pompousporcup... |
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 pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:58 - 03 Oct 2015 Post subject: |
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If you're new to spannering and have a bit of time on your hands find delboys garage on YouTube. Loads good info in his vids about what to do/not to do  |
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 89 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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