Loom protection

[kramdra]

Last year I tidied up the 13 year old rotting loom on CBR6. The headlight section was worst, water had got in so I replaced some of the wires and connectors. The PVC loom tape was a sticky mess of aged glue that had let water in. Instead I wrapped it up in self amalgamating tape, which was far more waterproof. I thought it would be durable enough.

I was wrong. Theres not much movement in the headlight loom - its quite a tight fit and held in place by many annoying clips, but its enough that it had worn through some areas of tape, through the PVC and was intermittently shorting my front right indicator to the frame. Not good.

Ive now replaced the damaged wire and removed all the tape. I do like the sealing ability of self amalgamating.

Is this much better? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111791587649

[J.M.]

If you're original loom lasted 13 years before failing, yet the one you've redone has broken through the loom and then through the wires during your ownership, you must have done something wrong routing it. I can't really think of any reason why a loom should get worn through to that extend other than it being exposed to something abrasive that's moving/crushing it.

Your wires should be insulated, which would surely protect against water. Then just wrap it up in an extra layer of protection to keep things tidy and make sure you route it correctly so that nothing is crushing it or rubbing against it.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[MCN]

Braided Sleeving

This is more heavy duty and looks like a pro did it.

It is not too expensive if serious about building in reliability.

A lot of 'big' OEM are not too careful in loom design. It is as much a mechanical exercise as electrical and some knowledge and experience is helpful to avoid failure. The hassle to re-do is worsererer than a fail.
It would be nice/more useful if the harness was just cable-tied to the outside of the frame.

Good looms are expensive due to construction material and method used.

That braided stuff if ultra resistant and won't chaff through unless routed in a stupid way.

Self almal is great for short terminations but it's not reeealy suitable for something long-term. It is not very resistant to oil, heat, abrasion.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[kramdra]

The original loom did last a long time, yes, but had quite a bit of water damage and caused many annoying intermittent faults. Many of the wires completely black oxidised inside and had to be replaced.

Water will always travel down the pvc and into joints, which on OEM were just taped up, not heatshrink or sealed in any way

Most of the connector blocks are the unsealed blade type and a bit corroded should replace the whole lot but I dont have time and for now it works.

Going to order cloth tape. I want additional waterproofing, and braid offers none, and also looks shit.

[WD Forte]

i find a hot glue gun occaisonally useful for holding a cable or cables
off a potential wear point,
The stuff's feckin useless as a glue but can often make a handy caulk or sealer when grommets or clips aren't viable.
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bikers smell of wee

[kramdra]

certoplast 514 ordered from ebay. Seems the highest temperature rating of the rubber adhesive tapes.

[davebike]

A tip from a mechanic who has done this a LOT
don't try to keep water out of a loom just wrap in in spiral wrap and let what gets in fall out Water will get in almost anything !!



Water dose not conduct at 12v well not enough to matter
Water will corrode any connectors and even the copper in the wires if there wet long enough
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[sickpup]

The reason looms aren't sealed water tight is any mositure that gets in cannot get out and it will get in as vapour.
Corrosion will always be a problem on motorcycle looms, you minimise this by allowing water to escape as Davebikes mate says.

It should always be possible to open a loom up so you can replace a length of the wire, if you can't do this all joins will end up being in one single place meaning you end up with a swollen 'snake belly' as the custom builders call it.

Instead of complaining about how something is done try understanding why something is done that way, then you will make better decisions on correcting mistakes rather than just making mistakes.

[stinkwheel]

[sickpup]

[stinkwheel]

The most common cable is a nasty copper alloy that work hardens like hell then snaps anywhere it's prone to flexing. If you're really unlucky, there will be some steel in there too.

A moulded seven core cable will be less prone to braking than seven individual thinwall cables wrapped in tape. Less likleyhood of it kinking and bending around a fixed point.

I find the suggestion that motorcycle wiring looms are so designed with easy repair in mind hilarious. They are designed like that because they've been cobbled together based on a loom designed for something else.

Meanwhile. At the Honda Blackbird Design department.

"Ok Yamasaki-san. Light work now. Make 2,000 more same-same. Chop-chop.".

"What about testing terminal? Twenty earth in one place, one connector. If wet make bike fail?"

https://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/mickcbr1100/LoomFix/oldphotos069.jpg

"Wrap in tape. Nobody notice for a few year. Then time buy new bike anyway."
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

[kramdra]

[Fizzer Thou]

Where some of the wiring looms rub or chaffe on my bikes I use spiral wrap to protect the wiring.This works particularly well on the dirt bikes where the handlebars are turned lock to lock far more regularly
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'