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reg/rec or battery?

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: reg/rec or battery? Reply with quote

A while back my ZZR had it's reg/rec go and it was replaced with one from a ZX6-R as that's what was available and being a similar sized 4 cylinder it was figured it'd be ok and it has.

I've noticed on the last couple of cold mornings that while the bike is as eager to start as ever, when I'm in slow queuing traffic (not able to filter / have filtered) it seems to struggle for tick over a little, if I've ridden and got the revs up enough to warrant changing gear before coming to a stop again it's fine.

I've found if I turn the lights off it recovers - this was without using heated gloves this evening, my heated gloves don't seem as effective as they were last year.

Tickover is set to about what it should be (if not a little higher)

Can't smell any burning from the area of the reg/rec, there is a little bit of heat behind the fairing in that area

I don't know how long the battery has been on the bike, I've had the bike about two and a half years, flattened it once when sorting something before even riding it, flattened it a couple of times with the previous reg/rec issue, the bike lives outside and gets used all year round.


Need to find multimeter and have a poke, who do I tell if it's reg/rec or battery?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: Re: reg/rec or battery? Reply with quote

Wonko The Sane wrote:



Need to find multimeter and have a poke, who do I tell if it's reg/rec or battery?



It's that time of year again when batteries kark it, if your battery has been on there 3 years then it's had a reasonable run for a bike battery.

Who you tell is up to you Wink
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Interesting one.

Dead battery would normally be most obvious when first starting. Starting easily suggests the battery is OK.

But it does seem to be charging, otherwise it probably wouldn't recover when given a good run. Most of the time regulator / rectifiers seem to either work or not work.

My suspicion would be the generator itself. We had a similar situation with a GPZ500 when one of the wires for the coils in there was damaged. Still ran, still charged, voltage still went up with rpm. Just nowhere near as much as they should have done. Presume 3 wires from the generator, so check the resistance over each pair of them and check they are the same.

All the best

Katy
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Interesting one.

Dead battery would normally be most obvious when first starting. Starting easily suggests the battery is OK.

But it does seem to be charging, otherwise it probably wouldn't recover when given a good run. Most of the time regulator / rectifiers seem to either work or not work.

My suspicion would be the generator itself. We had a similar situation with a GPZ500 when one of the wires for the coils in there was damaged. Still ran, still charged, voltage still went up with rpm. Just nowhere near as much as they should have done. Presume 3 wires from the generator, so check the resistance over each pair of them and check they are the same.

All the best

Katy


it is acting similar to when the reg/rec went, took some time to cause real problems with starting / running.

I'm not sure where the generator is but I'm sure haynes will tell me.

What am I looking for / settings on a multi-meter on the generator wires?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inspect the connector between the reg/rec and the alternator. It's possible that there is significant dirt and/or corrosion causing some electrical resistance. If ok, follow the trouble-shooting flow chart below (which isn't as complicated as it looks!).

https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 19 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonko The Sane wrote:

it is acting similar to when the reg/rec went, took some time to cause real problems with starting / running.


By any chance, was the last problem at the end of last winter? Lights on, heated grips, etc will draw a load of power, and cranking it over on the starter will draw a lot of power. Just getting cold now so back to a bigger load on the charging system.

Wonko The Sane wrote:
I'm not sure where the generator is but I'm sure haynes will tell me.

What am I looking for / settings on a multi-meter on the generator wires?


Under the engine casing at the end of the engine. But the wires should go up to the regulator / rectifier. Think there will be 3 wires (probably all the same colour) from the generator to the reg / rectifier. Set the multi meter to resistance, disconnect those wires (engine off) and check the reading between each pair of wires (ie, say we call the wires A, B and C, check A to B, A to C and B to C). They should all be very similar. Then connect the wires again.

Also check the voltage with the engine running. Voltage should be a bit over 12V with the ignition off, about 13.5V with the engine idling and up to about 14.5V with the engine being revved.

All the best

Katy
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 07:11 - 20 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Wonko The Sane wrote:

it is acting similar to when the reg/rec went, took some time to cause real problems with starting / running.


By any chance, was the last problem at the end of last winter? Lights on, heated grips, etc will draw a load of power, and cranking it over on the starter will draw a lot of power. Just getting cold now so back to a bigger load on the charging system.



No, it was start of June, so a few months on from when I'd gone back to normal gloves, however I always ride with the lights on and generally just let them switch on and off with the ignition.

It did struggle with a warm re-start also last night and the plugs have not been changed since last October, not sure what the interval on them should be, I do around 13k a year
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 20 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

spoken to the garage I trust (I do appreciate and value your advice), he says he doubts it is the battery as it starts normally, he suggested it could be a spot of rough running and to drain the carbs to get any sediment out and change the spark plugs and air filter as they've done over 10k.

I've got plugs and filter ordered to do this weekend, see how it is then go poking around the electrics.
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Oldie
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 20 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be plugs but it could also be your plug caps or HT leads. Usual way to test is to spray them with WD40 when the engine is running to see if there's a change (not easy at the traffic lights of course!).

But firstly, you really must get a meter, then it's a simple job to test if the bike is charging.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 20 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldie wrote:
Might be plugs but it could also be your plug caps or HT leads. Usual way to test is to spray them with WD40 when the engine is running to see if there's a change (not easy at the traffic lights of course!).

But firstly, you really must get a meter, then it's a simple job to test if the bike is charging.


I know, I ordered one when the reg/rec went but it never turned up - got money back though.

At the moment the fact the bike starts as good as it ever has with no problems kicking itself over I'm confident the battery is charging - I'll do the basics at the weekend and see if there's any improvement, ride to maplins and get a meter and follow the advice above
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 20 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before you bladder it you might try looking for HT leaks around the plugs and leads in a darkened shed/garage/kitchen/front room. Modern stuff isn't so affected by leaks as the stuff is made better. But maybe worth a shot.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 31 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldie wrote:
Might be plugs but it could also be your plug caps or HT leads. Usual way to test is to spray them with WD40 when the engine is running to see if there's a change (not easy at the traffic lights of course!).

But firstly, you really must get a meter, then it's a simple job to test if the bike is charging.


can't really run it while able to see plugs and HT leads as have to remove petrol tank and air box & filters.

I have been in today and replaced the spark plugs and air filter

did each spark plug in turn, after putting the plug cap on and moving onto the next I looked down and wondered "where does that wire go"

it was the HT lead from the first plug having come away from the plug cap so I think we've found the problem.

All fixed and running again.
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Oldie
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 31 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great feeling when that engine kicks into life Very Happy
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 31 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldie wrote:
Great feeling when that engine kicks into life Very Happy


It had been running throughout (it's my way of getting to work) just had to keep my thumb over the starter in stop - start traffic or at junctions I've filtered to the front of.

it is a good feeling when you start it up after putting it back together, especially when you're not 100% certain you put the cables on the coil packs on the right way round!
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