I give up on all torque wrenches

[Val]

Ok guys I give up on all torque wrenches.

All my 3 are not working.

This one never ever clicked from new:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009VYBFBO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01

This one clicked 3 times when used:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001K9S52?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Now is not clicking at all.

Bought this one last week:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0077BLOIM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

No clicking at all!

Am I the unluckiest guy in the universe?

All of them came with calibration certificates.

I take care for them like eggs. Do not leave them tighten.

What I am doing wrong
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[NJD]

Rated helpful because will follow with interest on what to avoid asking people to get me for Christmas.

Sorry I can't help.

[Ariel Badger]

You get what you pay for. Quality has a price
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[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Step 6 in the link below suggests that you lose the click if you back off the spring too far.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Fixing-and-Calibrating-a-Clicky-style-Torque-Wrenc/step6/Re-Assembly/

[binge]

Granted, everything you buy should work as described.
Torque wrenches being one of the more important tools in the box. I generally go for a higher quality item.

My torque wrenches were over £200 each. (Admittedly I do use them for professional jobs, not the occasional DIY. They're used 50+ times a day each sometimes.)

I've had them for about 7 years, and pay for them professionally calibrating once a year.


As said. Get what ya pay for.

[Taught2BCauti...]

Try one of These.

Plenty good enough for DIY use.
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[Rogerborg]

[stevo as b4]

I could be doing things really wrong still, but I don't see the need for tightening every bolt or fastener to specified torque settings.

I would use torque settings on things like cylinder head bolts, clutch hub nuts, front sprocket nuts etc.

But things like brake calipers, axle nuts, or even fork yoke clamps I would use my own judgement.

I still remember the stripped sump plug thread on my mates CG125, and I do blame workshop manuals in part for trying to impart torque figures on everything over common sense.

[WD Forte]

Torque wrenches? we don need no stinkin torque wrenches
I have one but tend to use it as a breaker bar for stubborn wheel nuts and have got by without one for years.
Used lots in industry of course but they were pukka calibrated ones for specific jobs.
Wouldn't trust general purpose ones much just go by my own three ranges depending on job, thread size and materials.
Go easy:
Nip it up a wee bit
and
Give it a wee bit more
Good and tight
That'll do ya
Grunting range:
Give it plenty !
and
Involuntary farting
Veins on head standing out or following through is probably overdoing it
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[Fidge]

The handle on mine bends when the correct torque is reached.

[Burnzy1989]

I must say cheap and chears full on price but frustrating and painful to use lol. Iv only had snap on torque wrecked but been told the Halford professional torque wrenches are good and made buy a reputable manufacture . But one thing I may add is it will only click once when the core torque is reached and are you using foot pounds or newton meters as you may be over tightening.

[bamt]

I have both beam and click style. The beams are fast and easy to use, and my tool of choice when I may have lots of different torques to do (e.g. swapping a bottom bracket on a push bike) without needing to ratchet things up.

The click ones are easier for things like cylinder heads, where you have a lot of bolts to do the same torque, then to the same (slightly higher) torque, then again as you gradually tighten it up. Using the clicker type I normally test it against something tight (like a rear wheel nut - obviously with a different socket size) first to be sure I've got it set right and it is working. After using one for a while you'll be able to feel that it clicked at roughly 20Nm, or 40Nm, or didn't, to give confidence without damaging anything before you move to the smaller fasteners.

[MCN]

They are cheap shite.


Listen... (Puts overly condescending head on):
If I was going to be arsed enough to worry about torque then I would be anal enough to consider shelling out for professional shit.

The more £££ stuff is more reliable and stays within calibration longer.
There are many folk (especially on here) who thrive on Tosh Wrenches. OK when they click but 'when' are they actually clicking?

At least you never paid toooooo much for them and you can maybe use the ratchet.

Good post for the Aldi/Lidl Phan-Bois.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[evilzed]

I never used a torque wrench when I worked on bicycles for years and never stripped a bolt or have any come lose, when I got my first big bike I thought I'd get one due to my Haynes manual mentioning torque specs for everything..........Stripped a sump plug using a cheapo ebay one (came with a certificate).

The wrench was pretty crap tbf as it didn't even have a lock nut for holding the torque setting so it was easy to twist it over. I invested in 2(different ranges) Halfords ones after and never stripped a bolt again. I still feel you can do most jobs without one though.

[bamt]

I never bothered on bicycles until I started using carbon frames/components and modern bottom brackets. The risk to high value components wasn't worth not investing in a decent wrench.

[evilzed]

Oh yeah if you're working with carbon parts you're taking massive risk in not using a torque wrench that's for sure! I only worked on aluminium/steel frames and components.

[Burnzy1989]

Yes some things there is no need for a torque wrenches and you know by feel . But you get what you pay for I bought a 450 mm 3/8 ratchet off eBay a neilson one for 15 quid and with in the 6th time of using it the ratchet striped and it's now but a paper weight. So it shows the mechanism was not built to take the stress with such leave ridge.

[Pete.]

Should have bought the Britool ones I put in the for sale section. Jimbo is right you can lose the clock by winding them off too far that's why some say STOP on the scale. You don't have to wind them right off either just back the pressure down.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[cb1rocket]

I have two torque wrenches from lidl and aldi both click at the same time
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[andym]

Have to agree with WD Forte, the only time I used a torque wrench was at college. I can usually judge how much force to tighten something up by how much force was required to loosen it. The range is from 1 finger tight to jumping up and down on 5 feet of scaffolding pole on the end of the ratchet.

Still only ever snapped 2 bolts in all the work I've done, and that was in the same hole in a clutch basket

[chris-red]

[MarkJ]

I have a big Silverline torque wrench for roughly 40-250nm, I've had it years and it has never let me down. Silverline always seem to be cheap but good quality imo.

I also have a Halfords pro torque wrench for 8-50nm and that's good too.

[A100man]