What tool?

[Beehive Bedlam]

I was all set out to replace the brake pads and fluid all round today on my FZS.

https://i.imgur.com/rc7C3xY.jpg

Until I was stopped dead in my tracks.

https://i.imgur.com/TbtAJ3L.jpg

Obviously I can not proceed with the rear caliper until I acquire replacment pins which I have ordered. I think a tighter fitting hex key twatted into the offending pin should crack it only one is stuck solid. I managed to get one free by using vice grips as a leverage handle while the other one just slipped and rounded both the pin and hex key.

https://i.imgur.com/rDCTaL2.jpg

This is the work of the previous owner or they have simply weathered. I have not touched the left hand screw but as you can see I have had a go at the right hand one to no avail blasted it with plusgas several times and tried splitting it with a flat head with the intention of tapping it out with a toffee hammer but it is not working and I fear I could be making it worse.

What tool(s) do I need to extract?

[Vincent]

the MC screws will need drilling, just drill the heads off and there should be enough of them left to get some mole-grips on.

With the caliper screws, I'd try finding the right size torx head to hammer in there, then use a socket on that.

One tool that will really help - a vice
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Space Is Deep

[WD Forte]

for the cap head bolt you might be able to tap/hammer a torx bit in
and hope it grips enough for removal.

On the MC screws I'd try a good sharp centre punch and toffee hammer around the profile of the mangled +
too see if I could raise enough of a 'lip' for a screwdriver to grip
( you could try a similar technique on the mangled cap head too)

OR
Carefully Dremel a slot for a flat blade to grip

Many folk have ball end hex keys which are handy in tricky spots but the contact area is small and
on worn heads with tight bolts can just wipe out where standard hex keys give you
a better chance of grip .
If you drill the heads off use the largest bit you can to clean up and create a dish on the mangled head
which wll help centre the following bits of the same diameter as the threaded part
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bikers smell of wee

[bamt]

On the MC screws, try the screwdriver that came in the bike's toolkit. They are JIS rather than Philips, it's possible you'll be lucky and it'll come out using the right tool shape (I've seen mangled heads like that where this has worked, but they may be a little far gone). Otherwise yes, carefully drill off the heads and it should be easy to get the rest out.

[redeem ouzzer]

I hope OP fucks his brakes up and dies.

[MCN]

[Vincent]

I've not tried them mself but for rounded off cap-head,(allen), screws, these may be worth a go:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boa-Grabit-Damaged-Screw-Remover/dp/B00096JDL2
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Space Is Deep

[Beehive Bedlam]

I have ordered

https://i.imgur.com/GtC637Z.jpg

I am confident whacking a slightly larger bit into the rounded pin will grip enough to safely extract it.

So that is the rear caliper sorted.

Now just to worry about the master cylinder I do not have a drill what drill do I require to drill out? Also I have never drilled out screws.

[MCN]

[Beehive Bedlam]

I have already got some replacement MC screws not entirely sure they will fit yet for reasons above but I think they will.

https://i.imgur.com/TbEQeAt.jpg

Also will this be sufficient?

https://i.imgur.com/oegKwpM.jpg

[Islander]

The spline bits might give you a better size range and fit than the torx bits - I've had success using them to get rounded and seized cap heads out in the past.

[mrbox]

dip the allen key in a bit of grease and some fine sand/dirt and that should grip pretty good.

are you sure an impact driver would not work on the MC screws?

worked for me on screw that looked as bad as those
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Current bikes: RE Himalayan, Bandit 12, MZ250ES

[dydey90]

Be careful drilling off the reservoir screws, I took too much off one of mine and now I have to drill it out and tap it to the next size up. Tried using a stud extractor but a 4mm thread is just too damn small.

For the cap head bolts, if they're rounded it's probably because they've been torqued up to two grunts and a groan. May have more success with pliers or molegrips. If you have access to one, a bench vice is great for this.
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This post is probably not serious and shouldn't be taken literally.
Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750

[Jewlio Rides Again LLB]

Buy a decent drill FFS, not one where the battery will be dead the next time you go to use it.
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Mpd72: I can categorically say i’m Brighter than that, no matter how I come across on here.
HAHAHA HAHAHA Blew Chilly MyCrowSystems

[MCN]

[bamt]

Probably more a comment on NiCD - get a LiIon and it will retain charge and have a longer useful life. NiCD has a high self-discharge rate and doesn't like being flat for extended periods or not fully charged/discharged (memory effect).

[Vincent]

Have you not got a power point OP? Does it have to be a battery drill? For that sort of money, you can get a used small pillar drill, much better for these sorts of jobs. Those bits look pretty useful
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Space Is Deep

[MCN]

[Vincent]

[kramdra]

Nothing wrong with the drill, is the chuck 100% plastic? however the battery will be wank. Consider connecting up a 4S or 5S Lipo pack from hobbyking.

However if you do have a suitable extension lead, the 15 quid drill from homebase/b&q/argos can take a lot of abuse.

[MCN]

[Hop Along Biker]

A good old fashioned impact driver works best because you can keep it hand tight in an anti clockwise direction and start tapping. You can increase the tap bit by bit and keep the driver pushed softly down in the screw head and let the tapping do the turning but keep the anti clockwise force on. When you get them out replace them with Allen head screws, bolts with washers or some other screw that sticks up a bit because If they stick again you have more meat to work with. If you use a drill start with a soft torque setting and let it hammer away for a bit if it doesn't turn increase the torque setting and let it hammer a bit more. Keep on increasing the torque setting bit by bit until it moves (slowly will do it, fast will break it). Starting with high torque setting will mash the screw straight away. Good luck and always use the least destructive method first.
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Hop Along Biker

[Beehive Bedlam]

Torx kit arrived this afternoon and made light work of the rounded bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/eZxwOsj.jpg

Now I have another problem.

https://i.imgur.com/8nOaMzm.jpg

They won't go back with the power of my thumbs though I was once told there's an issue if they do not and you shouldn't force them back with screwdrivers but I did anyway and they still wouldn't go back.

Can't get a g clamp on them I tried lots of lube (brake fluid) eventually got one moving the shiny one on the right enough so I could push it right back with the power of my thumbs. The other one however refuses to retract anymore than what it is.

I have torn a single piston caliper down before and replaced the seals will I have to do the same with this?

[Vincent]

Have you tried looseneing the bleed nipple a small amount? (careful where the squirting goes when you try pushing the piston again). really, you should just be pushing fluid back up into the MC, it can be a bit hard sometimes but not that difficult.
Are the seals dry, or did you stick some brake fluid on them first?

Make sure you don't scratch the surface on the pistons while you're wrestling with them.
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Space Is Deep

[Beehive Bedlam]