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Balancing carburetors

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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Balancing carburetors Reply with quote

Hi guys,

As some of you might know from before my ER5 had a petrol leak issue which resulted in completely striping the carbs(left float needle was not closing the fuel), getting new float needles, replacing fuel tap seals and air filter.

After all of this the bike does run differently than before (I had to adjust the idle speed as well). It revs easier and nicer but does not feel as smooth, it feels rougher and engine seems a bit clunky. So after a carb rebuild it was suggested to balance the carbs.

I made myself a nice manometer just wanted to ask at what rpm should I balance the carbs? choke on or off? Any other tips?

Thank you Smile
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

At idle with no choke and once the engine is nice and warm Thumbs Up

No real tips, should be a doddle with only two cylinders to balance. I've read on some forums that people balance them at a certain RPM to make it smoother at a particular cruising speed, but balancing at idle has always made the ride silky smooth for me anyway.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I go for a fast idle, as if you monkey the adjustment too far it has a lower chance of stalling, but there's nothing magical about the number. As an example, I think the CB500 idle was supposed to be around 8-900, I'd balance it around 1200.
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for replies guys Smile

On the way back from got a bit worried. As I started the bike up and allowed it to warm a little the left side got warm but the right was still cool. I also have a whistle noise i get from exhaust which is pretty much constant but now it was running every other time.

So I guess the cylinders are really out of balance.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it have 1 cable to a linkage or a cable that splits to two cables, it makes a difference to how you do it.

OGR
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
Does it have 1 cable to a linkage or a cable that splits to two cables, it makes a difference to how you do it.

OGR


Theres are two cables from the throtle but it's a push pull system
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 20 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be looking at the balance all through the rev range.
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was quite a bit of fiddling around as also needed to adjust idle and then balance the buggers. I think it's ok now but now when i start it with a choke on it jumps to like 4000rmp while before it was 3000rpm.

Also here are some pictures of the balancing with a home made manometer:

https://i.imgur.com/G9QYr5i.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gCm6eGS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SYB58YW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/h1ra5nl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3yBgiAk.jpg
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rode in to work this morning and the bike felt better but still something isn't quite right. I think some petrol did get into the oil.

I think I would will need to change the oil.

Could petrol contaminated oil cause such rough running issues?
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How have you got petrol in the engine oil? I'm not sure exactly what it would do to be honest, but it can't be good for it.

If all this occurred after you messed with the carbs I would imagine it's something to do with that. Check there are no air leaks, everything is back how it should be, no pinched o rings, check the jets are clean, the diaphragms aren't torn etc etc.

It's likeley unrelated but I'd do it just to tick it off - have you checked the valve clearances? Coil packs and spark plugs ok?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
How have you got petrol in the engine oil? I'm not sure exactly what it would do to be honest, but it can't be good for it.


If it had a fuel leak caused by a stuck float petrol could have been draining into the engine when the bike isn't running and getting past the rings.
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I had a petrol leak due to non working float needle on left side carb. But I have modified the airbox not to allow any petrol in through the breather pipe.

I rebuilt the carbs and cleaned them and also got new float needles, with new air filter as well. And anything past idle the bike runs better than it ever has but on idle it's just not as smooth as it used to be.

There is chance though that some petrol might have gotten into the engine and I was wondering if it could be causing the not so smooth idle issue.
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also not sure if this might help, so after i cleaned the carbs, replaced the parts and put everything together i went for a small test ride.

Now what was odd is that the clutch was biting right away, once releasing the clutch 1/10th of the way the bike began biting right away and I needed to adjust the clutch cable.

Could that mean clutch disks were sticking? But after clutch cable adjusted everything was fine.

Also today came back from work and the bike was idling around 2000rmp Sad Getting really worried now
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something is quite odd.

Yesterday after work I went to start the bike and it wouldn't, just kept spinning but would not start. So i pressed the clutch and went to first and back to neutral and it fired up on the first touch.

Now today half way home, was waiting at a train crossing so I turned the engine off, train went passed and tried to start the bike, kept sniping wouldn't start Sad Pushed the bike off the road tried multiple times and nothing, changed from neutral to first and back to neutral and nothing.
Pressed the clutch in and tried again and bam fired up right away.

What the hell is happening?
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

that could be something as small as a faulty clutch switch or corroded connector
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
that could be something as small as a faulty clutch switch or corroded connector


Would it allow the engine to spin? I though same as the kill switch where it would not even engage the started motor.

I mean it could be something else but on the both cases some action with the clutch allowed the bike to start again
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought most bikes that needed the clutch in wouldn't spin the engine but it's not beyond the realms of possibility that yours just cuts power the the coils or something.

Are you trying to start it in neutral?
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john24ssj
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 26 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
I thought most bikes that needed the clutch in wouldn't spin the engine but it's not beyond the realms of possibility that yours just cuts power the the coils or something.

Are you trying to start it in neutral?


Yeah always starting it in neutral. Once I got home, gave it few minutes and went to start it and it fired up on the very first touch. Going to change oil tomorrow and do further testing.

Thanks for the replies Smile
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