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Crank Case Bolt problem

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Falco
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 29 Nov 2015    Post subject: Crank Case Bolt problem Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

I'm a relatively new biker (~ 2 months) and despite a litany of small (but not crippling issues) I am very taken with the freedom granted by motorised transport.


When I went to check the valve clearances a few days ago, I ran into a problem.
The 6mm hex bolt on the left hand crank case of the CG 125 was stiff but came out no problem. The 10mm one however did not move until it suddenly the head began to mangle at not much more pressure than the 6mm needed (not sure about the terminology, the part of the bolt that the hex fits into on the top of the bolt?).

There is still *some* grip with the Allen key, but I don't want to try again and destroy the head completely. Is there a way I can loosen it before I try again? Or does it have to be drilled out? can a recessed bolt even be drilled out?

Any help appreciated


Last edited by Falco on 02:35 - 01 Dec 2015; edited 1 time in total
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 29 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you mean an Allen bolt?
https://go.3dlogix.com/exchange/images/uploads/10034-00157.jpg

Firstly check the condition of your allen key - if it has signs of rounded edges bin it and buy decent ones or else you're just setting yourself up for a beating.
Next clean all crud out of the head so that the correct size key fits.

A pic of the offending head would help as it may be beyond removal with the proper size key. Sometimes you can drive a splined torx style needle bit into the head and use that, very much depends upon the damage.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 29 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Liberal application of plusgas under the head into the threads as best you can.

Then, if you can get one into place, impact driver.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 29 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Post up a photo. It's hard to visualise what exactly you are struggling with.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 30 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Do you mean an Allen bolt?
https://go.3dlogix.com/exchange/images/uploads/10034-00157.jpg

Firstly check the condition of your allen key - if it has signs of rounded edges bin it and buy decent ones or else you're just setting yourself up for a beating.
Next clean all crud out of the head so that the correct size key fits.

A pic of the offending head would help as it may be beyond removal with the proper size key. Sometimes you can drive a splined torx style needle bit into the head and use that, very much depends upon the damage.


Yes...sort of? It certainly has a hex shaped hole on the head. But the head doesn't stick up above the surface (as it would with the picture of the allen bolt you posted).

The allen key is in good condition, in fact this is the first time it has been used (its from a bicycle maintenance kit) and the head is clean (the key fitted well).

The bike is in the garage at the moment (puncture yesterday far from home) but I will post a picture of it when I get home tomorrow.

Thank you for the advice.

Jewlio Rides Again wrote:
Liberal application of plusgas under the head into the threads as best you can.

Then, if you can get one into place, impact driver.


I had not heard of Plusgas, it seems like a handy thing to have around. However, the bolt is flush with the surface of the crank case, so I am not sure how much plusgas would be able to get in to the thread, or where I could get any purchase with an impact driver.

Pete. wrote:
Post up a photo. It's hard to visualise what exactly you are struggling with.


I will get one up tomorrow as the bike is in the garage at the moment.


Thanks for help so far.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 30 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:




The allen key is in good condition, in fact this is the first time it has been used (its from a bicycle maintenance kit) and the head is clean (the key fitted well).



I would recommend buying some good quality allen keys. How good do you think the allen key in that kit is going to be.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 04:05 - 30 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you have been afflicted with the classic fasteneur du fromage. It's quite a common ailment, especially on 80's bikes with crosshead screws.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 01:40 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attached a picture of the bolt. The scraping down to the edge of the case from the bolt is unrelated (it came with the bike).

monkeybiker wrote:
FredTheHorse wrote:




The allen key is in good condition, in fact this is the first time it has been used (its from a bicycle maintenance kit) and the head is clean (the key fitted well).



I would recommend buying some good quality allen keys. How good do you think the allen key in that kit is going to be.


I don't think there is anything wrong with the key. It's a good quality set for all bicycle maintenance short of wheel building. A mangled headset bolt on a bike is just as much of a nightmare on a bicycle as a motorbike (possible more so). And as I said, the key is not damaged at all, if anything it seems to be harder than the bolt itself.

smegballs wrote:
I think you have been afflicted with the classic fasteneur du fromage. It's quite a common ailment, especially on 80's bikes with crosshead screws.


I hope not, I don't relish the idea of having to drill it out. However the bike is a 2004 model (though I have no idea about whether the bolt quality is any better).

Does anyone have any idea where I could get a replacement (assuming I can get it off)?

Cheers
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about getting a 12/13mm headed bolt and filing the head down to get it a very tight fight, as in "need a light hammer tap to seat in the recess" tight. Then turning said bolt using two nuts tightened against each other.

Alternately, using a longer bolt, file the bolt head to fit. Then heat the bolt shaft and bend 90 degrees to make you a turner.

Similar to this here, only with a hand-fitted bolt head.

https://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/bolt_03.jpg

https://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/bolt_02.jpg
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Falco
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PostPosted: 02:13 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
How about getting a 12/13mm headed bolt and filing the head down to get it a very tight fight, as in "need a light hammer tap to seat in the recess" tight. Then turning said bolt using two nuts tightened against each other.

Alternately, using a longer bolt, file the bolt head to fit. Then heat the bolt shaft and bend 90 degrees to make you a turner.

Similar to this here, only with a hand-fitted bolt head.

https://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/bolt_03.jpg

https://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/bolt_02.jpg




That is a great idea! Thanks.

I think I have an M8 bolt somewhere, going to have to think about about how to file it (my file is in a rather sorry state).

[EDIT]: found it! 12.7mm head, though not really long enough for bending. Better get a new file and get to it Razz
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 02:22 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah hand-fitting it is gonna be a bit time consuming, it's one of those bastard jobs where you do just one file stroke too many and it's way too loose and you have to start again....

Make sure it's a Class 8.8 bolt at least and not one made of cheese Thumbs Up

What year is the CG?
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Falco
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PostPosted: 02:32 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
Yeah hand-fitting it is gonna be a bit time consuming, it's one of those bastard jobs where you do just one file stroke too many and it's way too loose and you have to start again....

Make sure it's a Class 8.8 bolt at least and not one made of cheese Thumbs Up

What year is the CG?


Just as well the valves don't sound like they need any adjusting at the moment then. :p

The bolt is A2-70, which I has a yield strength of 450 N/mm^2 (c.f. 640 N/mm^2 for 8.8). Is that difference enough to be a problem?

I believe it is a 2005 CG
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 02:36 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give it a go, worst it will do is shear.

I just suggested 8.8 cos it's pretty common and reasonably strong.

This looks like the replacement cap??

I picked the 2004 model as couldn't see 2005 on there.

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cg125es-2004-england_model2599/cap-30mm_90087mr1000/#.Vl0Hpb8addg
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 02:39 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

UK vendor here

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_90087MR1000/

I'm gonna be bored at work till 6am (security night shift) so shout if you have any questions.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
How about getting a 12/13mm headed bolt and filing the head down to get it a very tight fight, as in "need a light hammer tap to seat in the recess" tight.


A great idea but it looks as though the OP doesn't have much depth to work with on the original head and what he has got is a bit chewed up.

I'd be digging out a pin punch or chisel for that job.
Lightly tap the punch on the edge of the bolt's head (or the chisel if you have a metal chisel that isn't too bulky and has a nicely ground tip). Normally I'd say try not to damage the surrounding area but it looks as though it wouldn't hurt to source a new cover plate at this time.
Try to keep the angle of the chisel as low as possible as you are trying to turn the head not drive it through the plate!

If you can avoid creating further damage to the centre then once the bolt starts to move you can then use your allen key to draw it out.

EDIT: Why not remove the whole cover plate (casing) and bin the whole lot?
Or just take the casing off, do the job and then put it back, ignoring all the scuffs???
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plug and case have been gubbed by a gear lever in a previous life. That is probably a new/another lever on there as it is typical for the lever to be shoved into the cover when the bike is sent down the road. Sad

There may be some damage to the plug hole thread due to this. The plug or case or both threads may have been twisted. That can make removal difficult. If it was removed later and screwed into damaged threads then the problem will have been exacerbated.

If you can apply some heat to the cover without transferring too much to the plug it may slacken off.

This will be handy

The tool can be used creatively in the kitchen.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can source a new part and you're prepared to butcher the old one, get a peg spanner of the correct size, (LH in picture below), drill two holes, job done!
If you've got a grinder you'll probably have one anyway.
Alternatively make one out of some flat bar and two M5 bolts, that's worked for me in the past!
Alternatively, drill two holes, screw in 2, self tapping bolts, lever round with a large screwdriver!

https://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m2e1iN4ZHkyo3k9cMz_Hj1w.jpg
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Robby
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

They always jam up when someone does them up too tight. An impact driver should free it off.

If you break it, a replacement crankcase cover is only about 30 quid on ebay.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 01 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
beats me why anyone still uses "normal" allen keys.
after I ruined a wheel, trying to get threadlocked bolts (made of cheese) out of a brake disc (iirc) i chucked all mine in a box in a corner of the shed (where they still are)

I then bought a set of hex/torx bits that fit into a 10mm socket & a set of t-shaped allen & torx keys.

never rounded off a bolt since nor failed to get a bolt out. (though I've had to hammer in a torx bit a few times due to spack handed po's)

TL/DR? buy some decent tools.


cheers,
GAZ
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Falco
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies, Lots of great advice!

It looks like I have a lot of options to work through (though I will be trying to save the case, a new case is pretty far down the list of things I want to replace unless the thread itself is damaged).

If all else fails and I have to remove the whole case (thanks mentalboy, that never even occurred to me), is there anything I need to watch out for? I assume there is a gasket of some sort which will need to be kept clean and intact. Are there spacers that will drop out when removed or something else that will fall out/break?

I'll start going through the suggested methods and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again everyone.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 03:08 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:
hi,
beats me why anyone still uses "normal" allen keys.



Simply because 'bits' aren't always suitable for all applications. Horses for courses.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
stirlinggaz wrote:
hi,
beats me why anyone still uses "normal" allen keys.



Simply because 'bits' aren't always suitable for all applications. Horses for courses.


This. You need a range of options for different applications. Restricted access may mean that a standard key is the only tool that will work. I have some that are cut down even further for this exact reason.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:


If all else fails and I have to remove the whole case (thanks mentalboy, that never even occurred to me), is there anything I need to watch out for? I assume there is a gasket of some sort which will need to be kept clean and intact. Are there spacers that will drop out when removed or something else that will fall out/break?



No spacers to fall out, yup to a gasket but keeping it in one piece might be tricky. Either buy new one or apply blue Hylomar (after cleaning off old one).
You will probably lose a couple of spoonfuls of engine oil so it's handy to have a tray of some sort underneath when you open it up (a large plastic milk bottle cut in half lengthways is great for that kind of work).

If you don't have one already, find a manual to make life a little easier finding your way around the bike.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

Simply because 'bits' aren't always suitable for all applications. Horses for courses.


hi,
but they would have been ideal for this application.
there are very few times I have had to use a tool other than a hex/torx bit & ratchet or a T-shaped hex/torx key (strong enough to swing on btw Smile )
in the VERY rare occasion I can't use either, it usually calls for a cut down allen key, but like I say its not very often.
too many people use cheap allen keys for every application, which inevitably causes problems like rounded off bolt heads.

cheers,
GAZ
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 02 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:
MCN wrote:

Simply because 'bits' aren't always suitable for all applications. Horses for courses.


hi,
but they would have been ideal for this application.
there are very few times I have had to use a tool other than a hex/torx bit & ratchet or a T-shaped hex/torx key (strong enough to swing on btw Smile )
in the VERY rare occasion I can't use either, it usually calls for a cut down allen key, but like I say its not very often.
too many people use cheap allen keys for every application, which inevitably causes problems like rounded off bolt heads.

cheers,

GAZ


You need to get out more. Smile

There are many more things that use socket head fasteners than the types of tool designed to work with them.

I seldom use allen key sockets. Mainly because they regularly snap. (the reason for that is another subject.)

They are very/extremely useful if you have free access as islander pointed out.

It's true that there are too many tools made from cake icing on the market but the rule of thumb should be pay more for higher quality tools that are more reliable.
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