Consumer Rights Act 2015

[arry]

Seems there's a bit more powah to dem peeps on rights of rejection / refusal

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Any change to private sales?
____________________
My Flickr

[Rogerborg]

Wut? Borg don't do tort, it's written by lawyers for lawyers.



Urgh, OK then. Let's read it together.

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/15/contents/enacted

On a brief read ow-my-head there's still no absolute right to reject.

It requires a breach of one or more of:

Goods to be of satisfactory quality
Goods to be fit for particular purpose
Goods to be as described

Satisfactory quality is the most obvious one, and it's:

the standard that a reasonable person would consider satisfactory, taking account of—

(a) any description of the goods,

(b) the price or other consideration for the goods (if relevant), and

(c) [any public statement about the specific characteristics of the goods made by the trader]

Interestingly,

[satisfactory quality] does not cover anything which makes the quality of the goods unsatisfactory—

(b) where the consumer examines the goods before the contract is made, which that examination ought to reveal

i.e. a test drive/ride.

A right that you can't, won't or don't enforce is worthless. As we've seen, traders like Victor Devine neither know nor care about their "duties". Ones like Vinny Candelin simply sell their lemons as "spares/repair, not for road use" in the small print and get away with it by offering token refunds "in full settlement".

It's reasonable legislation, but it'll need to be put to the test.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Raffles]

[hellkat]

Interesting.

I wonder if it would apply to my car which I bought off a pikey at the beginning of November.

In less than a month it got a flat tyre.
Slow leak, really. No puncture, as I have since pumped it back up and driven around with a reasonable amount of success.

Anyway, when it was originally discovered, I went to change it:
(ok the recovery man went to change it... :shifty)
No spare tyre
(yes yes, serves me right for not checking upon purchase)

Not a major problem.
Bought a spare on eBay
Went to change the spare
Discovered the flat tyre had a locking wheelnut
(again: serves me right for not checking upon purchase)
(although in mitigation, I didn't even know what a locking wheelnut was, untl the recovery man explained it to me ...)

Shall I take it back to the pikey and demand my money back?
(or at least that they drill out the locking wheelnut and change my tyre?)

They could definitely be defined as a trader due to being in a yard with at least 50 other vehicles in there, and having a sign in the field next door which looks out over the A12 and which denotes that they are there and are looking for cars to buy.
____________________
Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[hellkat]

Or I could just go to the local garage and pay them £30 to drill it out for me and change the tyre, right?
____________________
Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[MarkJ]

You could whack a slightly-too-small 12 point socket over it to try and remove it (not sure if this works with a locking wheel nut that has a freely spinning ring around the outside). Or potentially weld a hex nut onto the locking wheel nut to remove it with a normal socket I suppose

[Shaft]

[hellkat]

yeahhhhhh ... I'm not all that interested in educating the pikey about the CRA myself as it goes ...

Turns out that Machine Mart have some kinda tool that will take them off (sort of defeats the purpose of locking wheelnuts, if you ask me) ... so that's worth looking at.

It's typical of me that I didn't even realise that the car (a V reg Rover 75, seeing as how you asked) had "alloys" that even needed locking wheelnuts. They just look like wheels to me: they go round with reasonable efficiency, and that's all I want them to do.

But only one of them has this damn nut, not all four, so the other three could be nicked, but not this one, stupid if you ask me. I might have bought a set of four once this one is off, but they're not even all that snazzy
____________________
Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[Sload]

Go for the garage option Kat, it can be hit and miss with those and if you dont have the appropriate tools in the first place the cost can creep. Least now you know what to look for.

Other option, anyone local to you from here who can shift it?
____________________
Honda Varadero >> Triumph Speed Four >> Honda CBR1100xx

[bugeye_bob]

[MattEMulsion]

[Rogerborg]

[hellkat]

[trevor saxe-coburg-gotha]

[arry]

[stevo as b4]

I'll always maintain that in original 1400cc closed deck block form, with the wet liner's instead of the later damp liner version, it was an excellent engine for it's time, and ahead of it's time by up to 10years too!

Reliability was in the above form excellent, if coolant levels didn't drop from leaks or other normal fails like coolant caps, rusty radiators or water pumps weeping. Let the coolant level drop more than a pint or so and it would easily be game over for the soft alloy block and head castings.

103bhp from 1.4L and 75kg bare engine weight is still good stats today. The 1.0L Toyota 3pot is 67kg.

Why no other manufacturer has since used true long bolt construction for an alloy car engine is a mystery to me?

Casting methods particularly high pressure ones, have improved massively since the late 1980's, and you wouldn't even need to use liner's in alloy bores now when a plated or ceramic coated bore would work as well or better.

[sensi5446]

[hellkat]

[stevo as b4]

Well if you wanted to know, the numbers 1.8 mean it's without doubt the most un-reliable version of the expanded K-series (stuff of legend on motoring forums).

Your only one advantage is if it does not have a small 't' after the 1.8 bit, as the 't' should really say TNT, such is it's longetivity record.

In all seriousness the best thing you can do with any K-series engine'd car is religiously check the coolant and oil levels at least every week and I would do so daily if your were covering 100's of miles.

Making sure you have no leaks, be it from hoses, water pumps, coolant expansion tank caps or rusty radiators is the best thing you can do to try and keep it going. If you lose much coolant at all everything alloy tends to go soft and distort.

On there other hand if built correctly with the correct liner specs, steel dowels, later spec gaskets etc, it can still surprise people. There's a 1.8VVC K-series that's reliably made 300bhp on std internals almost unbelievably.

The early spec better designed 1.4 could make far more too!

[chris-red]

[hellkat]

Thank you, that is most useful to know. It is currently doing a grand total of nil miles per day, due to I'm currently more concerned with finding new locking wheel nuts (?bolts) for the alloy wheels which had no key and which I had to have drilled out ...

'kin pikeys

I've already thrown a strop at some (German?) parts-ordering service who were so incompetent that they phoned and emailed me five times yesterday, about my order for new ones, on top of which when I spoke to them they thought I said "Volvo" when in fact I quite clearly said "Rover" due to having no reason to even contemplate Volvos, and I had also emailed them the details of my car spec to be sure they had it right.

Twats
____________________
Not nearly as interesting in real life.

[chris-red]

Pretty sure you can walk into halfrauds and get locking nuts...
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[MarkJ]

[hellkat]