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Padlock suggestions?

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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Padlock suggestions? Reply with quote

In the market for a new padlock to fit a chain that has links of 9-10mm and would like some suggestions, on the criteria list is:

- Can withstand being exposed to all weathers (aimed at the locking mechanism).

- Closed shackle (I have no issue with open padlocks but closed looks like it offers more protection / less space to get at things).

I did find this Squire SS50CP5 Hi Security Closed Shackle Lock and would be happy to settle with it, unless there's a better one for cheaper or a better one with a similar price?

Also just to plan ahead (when funds allow for better chains) based on the comment in the reviews "the SS50CP5 has only 16mm of vertical and horizontal clearance" I assume that this would also work with a 13mm.. or up-to a 16mm?

Thanks in advance. Thumbs Up
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P.
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want a chain of 16mm minimum. Absolute minimum.

A great padlock and a shit chain is not great.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
You want a chain of 16mm minimum. Absolute minimum.

A great padlock and a shit chain is not great.


16/19mm for home security I'm aware but this is in regards to chains that I carry around when out and about and on commutes. I have my eye on the Pragmasis 13mm when funds allow.

An upgraded padlock is the next best thing I can do until then, if money was no object and all.
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P.
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So grab the almax 16mm... that's portable enough.

Which one is cheaper....bike or lock
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NJD
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Purchased a replacement padlock for now dirt cheap and shall go all out when funds allow.

On the subject of Almax 16mm chains;

(1) Is a 1.0/1.5/2.0 etc. meter chain exactly that regardless of chain link sizes?

(2) Would I just need something like this topbox to carry it around?

Topbox might actually be a good idea since I could just chuck my backpack and chains inside and then leave the topbox on the bike empty when parked up. My only issue with a topbox is that I'm on a very slow 125, would it weigh it down / change the handling much?
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iooi
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fidge wrote:


I recommend a load of alarms.


Which will attract the most attention...

Someone with a bolt cutter?

Or

A alarm going off


Bit of a no brainer really. Alarms go off all the time and no one gives them a 2nd glance.
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
On the subject of Almax 16mm chains;

(1) Is a 1.0/1.5/2.0 etc. meter chain exactly that regardless of chain link sizes?

(2) Would I just need something like this topbox to carry it around?

My 1.5M 16mm is 152cm, their measurement seems to ignore the outer hoop of each end link.

They are very heavy, but its transportable. Just make sure its packed in tightly so it doesn't slide around if you're going to top box it.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Matt- wrote:
1) My 1.5M 16mm is 152cm, their measurement seems to ignore the outer hoop of each end link.


I'll compare measurements when it's time to order, thankyou.

-Matt- wrote:
2) They are very heavy, but its transportable. Just make sure its packed in tightly so it doesn't slide around if you're going to top box it.


Shall do. Probably end up buying, trying and commuting with a top box before investing in the almax just to get used to it before hand. Might also solve the long lost annoyance of limited backpack space when shopping. Laughing
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to use one of these (or a copy at least) for my Almax and backpack/tankbag'ed my other stuff. Seemed to be much quicker and easier to just throw the chain in the tailpack everyday than mess around securing it somewhere else.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorbike-Motorcycle-Essential-Collection-Mini-Tail-Pack-Bag-By-Autokicker-/221359658393?hash=item338a105599:g:q3IAAOxyLiJR3qti

You could definitely do it in a topbox, but they're the sort of weight you'd want to be very static. If its sliding around its going to be smashing everything and probably not much fun to ride with either Razz.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Matt- wrote:
You could definitely do it in a topbox, but they're the sort of weight you'd want to be very static. If its sliding around its going to be smashing everything and probably not much fun to ride with either Razz.


Top box just seems more convenient for me due to the simplicity of throwing a backpack in and out and the start and end of commutes, I don't think a tailbag would be efficient.. might make for an ideal purchase post winter when social trips occur again.
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Copyhat
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd recommend the Abloy 340 series padlocks to go with an Almax chain if you want to stay secure. The lock itself is almost impossible to pick and the exterior is a good match with an Almax chain.

Link to a brochure: https://www.abloygrossist.dk/pdf/Abloy_hengelase.pdf

This guy knows something about locks, and he recommends the Abloy higher than Abus Granit and similar offerings because of it's durable exterior along with the very complicated key arrangement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsJZ_kKjXcE

Regarding a topbox, I was happy that I wasn't forced to bring a backpack. It is also a pretty convenient way to store locks, helmets and extra clothes.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
-Matt- wrote:
You could definitely do it in a topbox, but they're the sort of weight you'd want to be very static. If its sliding around its going to be smashing everything and probably not much fun to ride with either Razz.


Top box just seems more convenient for me due to the simplicity of throwing a backpack in and out and the start and end of commutes, I don't think a tailbag would be efficient.. might make for an ideal purchase post winter when social trips occur again.


Not sure about the Almax, but my carry chain is a Pragmasis 13mm and I have no idea how you would transport something that heavy without a topbox. I took it in my backpack once (when the top box was smashed and couldn't be used). By the end of the 20 minute drive my back was killing me. I don't entirely trust my cargo net to hold it securely.

Topboxes are very convenient (though you can really feel them when its windy), but fill one up and the bike does handle quite differently.

I found the hardest thing with a chain was finding something to connect it to and keep it off the ground! Especially in "normal" parking places. I believe Pragamasis offer a chain type with a "loop" at one end that you can thread the chain through so you get more of the chain to work with. I'd be tempted if I didn't already have one.

I find the Squire SS50CS lock pretty good, but no-one has tried to steal the bike yet so I can't say for sure Razz
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Abloy 340 are 10mm shackle locks that will fall apart if a bolt cropper even farts near them, easily cropped. Perhaps one of the best 10mm shackle, but it wont secure a bike.


Abloy 362, 15mm shackle. I have a couple.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181956462598
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201480484306
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181956459919

they are common on ebay, as new army surplus, about 50 quid each.

A good chain and lock are not light, 10kg or so - too much to be loose in a top box. Mine fit nicely under seat, no room for it to move about.
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P.
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fidge wrote:
Paddy. wrote:
So grab the almax 16mm... that's portable enough.

Which one is cheaper....bike or lock


What if fully comp or TPFT?

I recommend a load of alarms.


What... I don't get it.

My bike is FC but I chain it up. You pay top money for a bike and insurance and then when it gets nicked have weeks of running round for insurers to increase the price because you claimed. Alarms...lol
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I carry my 19mm almax in a kriega tailpack. It's no more hassle than transporting a smaller chain in the tail pack. It also leaves space to throw in a couple of disk locks.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

2m x 16mm chain, big shackle lock and all the other assorted junk I've got sliding around in my topbox have never caused me any problems.

However, that's with a box that's securely mounted directly onto the subframe just slightly behind the rear axle.

The mounting on a Lexmoto Arrow is much further back and looks a bit precarious, I'd be slightly fretty about power-wheelying. Wink

Tank bag, or a bag on the pillion seat is probably a better option.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
I'd be slightly fretty about power-wheelying. Wink


So many tired old horses, so many faster pedboi's. Must save and upgrade. Laughing

Rogerborg wrote:
Tank bag, or a bag on the pillion seat is probably a better option.


Tank is plastic, also the idea of going over a bump and having all that weight possibly bouncing off the tank makes me squeamish.

In regards to a tail bag (see picture below) is there one that could just be looped through the black u shaped handles (rear of bike, underneath) and tied underneath the bike so that it can be removed at either end of the commute?

https://www.thescooterwarehouse.co.uk/images/D/arrow1.jpg

Or looking at that picture I could just secure it around the already mounted silver rail at the rear of the bike? Thinking
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Tank is plastic

So's my Nazi Tractor. Loop round the headstock, strap under the tank, job done.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
So's my Nazi Tractor. Loop round the headstock, strap under the tank, job done.


So wrap the strap around the (see picture below) black tube just forward of the tank and then underneath?.. just to understand how it would work, sure I'll get the hang of it.

Any recommendations, would need to be waterproof.

Just to get an idea (Image from google) of how much space I'd have to play with. https://me-moto.com/uploads/postfotos/2013-lexmoto-arrow-125-blue-1.JPG

Also are we talking as a replacement for my backpack or just something to put my chains in? If the earlier then my backpack is 25L. If the latter then I'll let you throw suggestions at me.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:


We used to use those to secure shipping containers in Iraq. We actually found it easier to remove the container door than break the locks when mongs lost the keys.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
So wrap the strap around the (see picture below) black tube just forward of the tank and then underneath?

Yes. Magnets make it more secure, but I'm fine with just a strap-on on the Tractor.

Recommendations, dunno, I've got two "B-Square" branded cheapies from Lidl that are pretty good. They seep very slightly when left out for hours in heavy rain, but a dry-bag liner takes care of that, and would be a solution on any bag.

Size depends on the bag. Mine expand and are copious, can't speak to others. Depends how much you typically carry in the backpack, I suppose.

I'm a luggage tart and will often run with various combinations of top box, tank bag, tail bag, and/or a backpack as the mood takes me. As with much of biking it's a personal thing.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went with a temporary home made method of putting the backpack on the passenger seat and then using the bags clip to go under the bike and a bungee strap over the top to secure it a bit more.

Ended up with a smashed glasses case somehow but survived the commute without hardly any hassle otherwise. Only thing that I noticed was the gear changes being funky, might have something to do with my backpack being to big resulting in me sitting further forward. Only other difference was on the breaks when attempting to slow control.

Easy enough to put on and off and enabled me to ride more freely without being weighed down or restricted.

I'll reply further when I get home latter.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
In regards to a tail bag (see picture below) is there one that could just be looped through the black u shaped handles (rear of bike, underneath) and tied underneath the bike so that it can be removed at either end of the commute?


My Kriega comes with these little straps that live permanently under the seat.

https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YTWlsDLSL._AC_UL320_SR260,320_.jpg

They live there permanently poke out the side of the seat. Then you just clip the tail pack on to the straps whenever you want to use the tail pack.

Works a treat on my R1, and you can barely notice there's any fittings installed when the tailpack isn't on the bike.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 14 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Top box just seems more convenient for me due to the simplicity of throwing a backpack in and out and the start and end of commutes, I don't think a tailbag would be efficient.. might make for an ideal purchase post winter when social trips occur again.


I had a topbox on my Thundercat before I bought the R1.

It's absolutely more efficient, and a top box is useful all-round. I would choose a top box over a tail pack, but then I hate the look of sports bikes with a top box so I opted for a tail pack in this instance.

I would say though that whilst the top box is quicker, once you get used to using a tail pack, it's still pretty quick to use. It takes me roughly ~2-3 minutes to get my security devices off, in the tail pack, attached to the bike, and ready to go.
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