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Valve clearance troubles CG125

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Falco
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Valve clearance troubles CG125 Reply with quote

I was hoping to check my valve clearances today, but have run into a problem. The rocker arms won't move. I have turned the engine over several times but there is still no movement. Am I missing something? Does this mean there is no valve clearance? Or something else entirely?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clearence will be in the order of hundreds of a millimeter so there would be little or no appreciable movement. There is a possibility that the clearence is too small, in which case you should undo the nut of the adjuster and turn it back slightly until you can just get your feeler guage in with a little drag. If the feeler guage is opening the valve, the clearence is too small.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The clearence will be in the order of hundreds of a millimeter so there would be little or no appreciable movement. There is a possibility that the clearence is too small, in which case you should undo the nut of the adjuster and turn it back slightly until you can just get your feeler guage in with a little drag. If the feeler guage is opening the valve, the clearence is too small.


Ah Thank you. In that case, how can I tell if the engine is on the right stroke?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at the cam, you can see a lobe on it. You want to make sure the rocker follower is on the part of the cam furthest away from it.

Then take out the spark plug and using something of a suitable length (not only an inch!) check that the pistion is at the top of the stroke. Move it forwards, backwards to adjust. I always used to use a screwdriver but you have to be sure that you don't damage anything inside with it.

Do not drop anything down the hole as you'll have to strip the head to get it out!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/valve_clearance.htm
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:

Ah Thank you. In that case, how can I tell if the engine is on the right stroke?


Get a haynes manual, it will tell you how to do it correctly.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks Nobby, all sorted now, after a bit of faffing.

MCN: Yeah, I was using that, but the photographs are too low rez to make out what was going on (and I didn't realise how little the rocker arms would move.

monkeybiker: I have the Haynes Manual, in many respects it is excellent but for valve clearances it is total trash.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also noticed a couple of other things while adjusting the tappets;

-there was a larger gap on the outer edge of the tappet, nearer the case (I took a picture but it is too blurry to see what I mean Embarassed). Is this a sign of wear?

-one of the rocker arms moved back and forth along the bolt it pivots on very slightly. Is this a problem? Something that needs fixing/replacing?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:
I also noticed a couple of other things while adjusting the tappets;

-there was a larger gap on the outer edge of the tappet, nearer the case (I took a picture but it is too blurry to see what I mean Embarassed). Is this a sign of wear?

-one of the rocker arms moved back and forth along the bolt it pivots on very slightly. Is this a problem? Something that needs fixing/replacing?


The tip of the valve stem is hardened which can eat into the face of the tappet.
It makes setting the gap a bit of a fiddle as it's impossible to feel the gauge 'drag' properly.
A new tappet will fix it or find some way to remove the unworn section of the tappet.
Remove the rocker arm shaft and use rough wet and dry (400) (wrapped around a flat file to help keep the surface flat) to remove the biggest part then polish using 200 or finer.
This will have an effect on the adjustment so you would normally have to reset the clearance.
But you will now be able to get the full width of the gauge tip in.

For feel, set to the gap for the spec. if you can't get the gauge one size up from the spec size and the gauge one size down from spec is slack then the setting is correct.
Any tiny imperfection in the newly 'machined' rocker arm face will probably be not be noticed.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 22 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
FredTheHorse wrote:
I also noticed a couple of other things while adjusting the tappets;

-there was a larger gap on the outer edge of the tappet, nearer the case (I took a picture but it is too blurry to see what I mean Embarassed). Is this a sign of wear?

-one of the rocker arms moved back and forth along the bolt it pivots on very slightly. Is this a problem? Something that needs fixing/replacing?


The tip of the valve stem is hardened which can eat into the face of the tappet.
It makes setting the gap a bit of a fiddle as it's impossible to feel the gauge 'drag' properly.
A new tappet will fix it or find some way to remove the unworn section of the tappet.
Remove the rocker arm shaft and use rough wet and dry (400) (wrapped around a flat file to help keep the surface flat) to remove the biggest part then polish using 200 or finer.
This will have an effect on the adjustment so you would normally have to reset the clearance.
But you will now be able to get the full width of the gauge tip in.

For feel, set to the gap for the spec. if you can't get the gauge one size up from the spec size and the gauge one size down from spec is slack then the setting is correct.
Any tiny imperfection in the newly 'machined' rocker arm face will probably be not be noticed.


I think I might do both. Put new Tappets in (@2.75 it would seem miserly refuse) and sand the old ones down and store them somewhere, ready to swap back when the new ones wear. Thank you for the advice.

Any opinion on whether the rocker arm sliding left and right on the bolt is a problem? I've indicated the direction of movement on this picture of some valves (not mine).
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 22 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

turn the stator counter clockwise untill you see the valve closest to the carb go down then line up the t mark on the stator Thumbs Up
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Nemo
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 26 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't matter what stroke the cylinder is on, as long as the cam is in the correct position to take a clearance, half the time it doesn't even matter if the piston isn't perfectly top dead centre, as most manufacturers just do it on the opposite side of the lobe.
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