Cam chain rattle

[Error 650]

The Cbr 600 1990 has a rattle. When it's cold it rattles (ticks) and when you blip the throttle or the bike warms up it gets a lot quieter. Is this doing any damage to my bike? it's an old bike and it's got 42k on it. I understand the tensioner gets worn/stuck on these bikes, is a replacement an easy job? or am I better of leaving it?

[Hahadumball]

it wont damage it just be annoying, whip the plugs out put it in gear, roll backwards as fast as you can and then let the clutch out, should force it to click over, unless its at the end then a new chains a better idea.

just remember to buy a NEW chain and not an almost new one thats 10 years old.
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015

[WULFSTAN]

Fit a manual tensioner like I did on my 1990 cbr.
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Your backside is better enough for you to run again, if need be – bristle up the courage of the cornered rat, put on a bold front, and to hell with them. Bluff my boy – bluff, shift and lie for the sake of your neck and the honour of Old England

[Nipedley]

+1 1988 CBR600 was rattly as all hell until I fitted a manual tensioner (42k miles)
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[Ichy]

If it is going quiet when warm then I'd leave it for now. It's not going to cause you any problems. I'm not a massive fan of manual adjusters, it's too easy for the less mechanically minded to over tighten them.

It may be worth planning in a top end service when you can afford to take the bike off the road for a couple of days. Can't hurt to check the valve clearances.
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https://www.metacafe.com/watch/1972097/how_to_behave_on_a_forum/

[weasley]

Is it definitely a ticking valve clearance you can hear, and not a leaking header gasket?
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Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[Hahadumball]

[Error 650]

I am rather rubbish at fixing/diagnosing things. I really would not know. If anyone is close to Tooting I'd pay you to come and have a look. When I start it for the 1st 30 seconds there is no noise then the rattle, then once warmed up the rattle goes, as it does if I blip the throttle when it is cold.

E.g for above.

Went to buy a car with a friend, guy had taken it in px. We went to look, he said Anti roll bar bushes are banging, sure enough banging from the front. Bought car as it was a bargain. 3 miles down the road front wheel came off. Alloys on car, someone had removed 4 of the 5 studs and the last one was holding the wheel on. Wheel came off as we were within spitting distance of M25.

[WULFSTAN]

Local bike shop would tell you quick enough by just listening. Heres a auto tensioner if you dont like the sound of a manual https://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_motorcycle_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=13MN4H41&block_02=E__0500&block_03=759&block_04=xx&block_05=hmc its 99 percent going to be the tensioner old hondas are famous for it. Could you make a video of the sound this would help us to help you.
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Your backside is better enough for you to run again, if need be – bristle up the courage of the cornered rat, put on a bold front, and to hell with them. Bluff my boy – bluff, shift and lie for the sake of your neck and the honour of Old England

[Ichy]

[WULFSTAN]

[sickpup]

[Hahadumball]

[Error 650]

Had someone in the know have a look and confirmed it's cam chain. His advice was just to leave it and ride it as it is.

[sickpup]

[WULFSTAN]

[Hahadumball]

[sickpup]

[Fizzer Thou]

Going by the fiche diagram it would appear that the cam chain is of the Hy-Vo type and is known as a 'silent' chain in some circles.

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cbr600f-hurricane-1990-l-england-mkh_model2244/partslist/E__0500.html#results

If the can chain tensioner is of the ratchet type,which is not too clear in the diagram,then it is a very similar type to that which is fitted to both of my 1000s and is of the ratchet mechanism.These I always thought were quite failsafe,unless the internal spring was not strong enough to extend the tensioner when the cam chain stretched beyond a certain limit.

The chain does not look that expensive but because the cam chain runs to the centre of the cams and not on the right side of the engine like later models,then to replace it would mean either an engine strip or use a rivet link.So I would suggest looking at other possibilities before deciding that it is the chain that is causing a problem.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Hahadumball]