Boarding out a loft + insulation.

[chris-red]

Right the loft in my new place is a state, insulation all over the place and it is very thin, the bits that are boarded only allow for 10cm of space between the ceiling and the boards. A quick look online, shows I should have 270cm between boards and ceiling full of insulation.

Is it a simple case of remove the manky old insulation, screw in the stilts, lob the new fat insulation down and screw the boards into the stilts?

Just after any info from people that have done it before, i.e. any tips or suggestions for materials etc.
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[ScaredyCat]

There's no real need to get rid of the old stuff. Just put the other stuff on top. Loft boards can be had from B&Q or fleabay. You can also get loft lifters (legs) eg like this or use scraps of wood - depends how high you want it.. Don't forget if you use legs there'll be no support at the edges other than the bit where the feet meet the board.

You can also line the roof part too. Foil backed stuff is good.
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[CaNsA]

What about insulating the rafters in the roof?

Is there more depth than that on the floor > ceiling?

[Ste]

Removing the old insulation is a fucking horrible job.

See if you can get free loft insulation from your electric / gas company through the Energy Company Obligation.

https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/environmental-programmes/energy-company-obligation-eco/information-domestic-consumers

[chris-red]

[Ste]

I'd agree with doing it properly and getting all the manky old stuff out.

Bag it up in the loft to try and minimise how much of it ends up in the carpets when you're taking it out of the house.

If you just put new insulation on the roof rather than between the rafters then that's not going to insulate the house as well. I've no idea how much benefit there would be from doing both.

Just as a point of note / disclaimer, whilst I'm a fully qualified internet roofing expert if there were such a thing, the only experience I've got with doing this is helping sorting a mates loft insulation so hopefully someone with more hands on experience will add their thoughts to this thread.

[weasley]

I'm part way doing this in my house. I removed the old stuff which was thin and flat, have relaid the first layer of 100mm between the rafters and am waiting for... something... before I do the next bit. I intend to put a 170mm second layer over the outer areas of the loft, then board the central area by laying beams at 90°, filling with insulation then boarding on top.

Getting this far was a ball-ache. I did use a disposable hooded overall, dust mask, gloves and goggles. Even in mild weather I was dripping sweat. The old stuff was bagged up in the loft (I used wheelie bin liners for extra volume) then taken to the local council tip. The new stuff was easy enough to handle and lay, but don't overestimate how much you can fit in a car.
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[ScaredyCat]

[Tarmacsurfer]

[weasley]

The old stuff that I removed was compacted, falling apart, dusty and full of rodent shit and wasp nest debris. It's a PITA to get out, but it's gone now and I'm glad.
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[Baffler186]

Done it a couple of years back in the hot summer which was unpleasant, just remove the old stuff if it's falling to bits, but otherwise leave it. No major problems encountered, just remember not to cover up any pipework or anything you may need access to later on.
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[stinkwheel]

Tips:

1) Check the wiring. Upgrade if necessary. If it has shit, thin insulation, it probably has thin, shitty wiring up there. Consider upgrading it to thicker cable while you can still get at it. Especially heavier draw stuff like shower cables.

2) In a similar vein, light fittings. If you've been wanting to fit a whole load of recessed GU10s of a fucking big chandelier, now is the time.

Take the time to put some decent lighting up there too so you can find that 10 year old artificial christmas tree to take it to the skip. LED or electronic fluo tube strip lights like they use to illuminate shop displays are a piece of piss to daisy-chain from a single rose.

3) Enlarge your loft hatch. a) You'll want to be able to get in there easily to pile loads of junk on top of your new loft boards for 10 years until it's time to take it to the skip. and b) Full size floorboards are cheap as chips and require a lot less fitting.

4) Two drills. One for the holes, one for the screws.

5) Even if you're not going to put in a small hatch, mark on the floorboards where the wiring splitters and ceiling roses are. Someone will thank you in years to come.

6) Fit a decent loft ladder. One you can walk back down while carrying an artificial christmas tree on your way to the skip without killing yourself.

When I did mine, I piled the old insulation up the sides then laid new stuff up the central area I was going to board. I then screwed a secondary set of joists on top at right angles to the originals, laid another layer of insulation THEN put the floor on.

To finish off, I got some of that mylar bubble wrap and stapled it down to the edges of the floorboards and up to the roofing joists (so leaving an 8" gap for air to circulate above it), essentially forming a "wall" down both sides. This was more to stop the shitty old insulation I'd piled up the sides making a mess everywhere.

Thermal survey last year showed totally consistant temperature over the entire upstairs ceiling which means I did it right.
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[Andy_Pagin]

Don't underestimate how many boards and screws you'll need. I think I used about 600 screws!

Don't expect the joists to all be evenly laid, especially height-wise.

Deffo two drills, if they're cordless then multiple batteries on charge.

Small hand saw and a jigsaw is also useful.

Start from the loft hatch and work outwards. Put the ladder in a.s.a.p. That way you can slide the new boards up the ladder and over.
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[chris-red]

[stinkwheel]

The hatch and steps you posted should allow you to get 2400 x 600mm floorboards through (vertical clearance above the hatch nothwithstanding).

Can't comment on the quality but it looks like the right idea.

My one comment would be that it'll be tricky to insulate the hatch. My ladder is a 3-section one that kind of pivots and shoves up inside the loft itself so I have a load of insulation on the inside of the hatch too.

Make sure you can get a good seal on the hatch too. If your loft is properly insulated, it'll be baltic up there in the winter. This will generate a howling draught round any gaps.
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[angryjonny]

[nickyboy4]

I had to empty my loft due to a rat problem and ours is a three bed semi ,62 bags of old insulation i took to the tip

[chris-red]

[UncleFester]

Hire a van or borrow one but remember to apply ( if you need one ) for your local tip van permit otherwise turned away you will be.

Vans are just easier.

Whilst you have the van and the permit, take all /any other shit to the tip at the same time.
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[chris-red]

[Tarmacsurfer]

[syl]

[bikertomm]

When we moved into our house 10 years ago it was a state.

Original 1930's, 1 owner since new. There was tonnes of rubbish, you name it up in the loft. Insulation? I shit you not there was straw everywhere.

The worst part was clearing it out. What seemed like day after day of loading up my dads car and going down the dump. It was so fucking hot up there and the flys so many bluebottles wizzing round the one light bulb hanging from the pitched roof. We got the hoover out and literally sucked up about 300 flys in one go, and then you could see them inside the hoover alive

Do not want.

We made it all good though in the end, guess what, 10 years on, it's full of shit and xmas decorations and bags we never use.
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[grr666]

Turbo gold screws.
BandQ, Screwfix etc do them.
No need to pilot or countersink (Esp in chipboard) and can be used easily near the edge of boards.
Personally, I wouldn't use an impact driver for this job. If your plasterboards were nailed up, (and it's
tricky to figure that out for certain and pretty likely if the house is over 30 years old) the repeated vibration will likely
have you making good room side, high torque, low speed setting is all you need to get screws through chipboard into joists.
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[Tarmacsurfer]

Agreed on the fixing choice, turbogold are decent and not hideously expensive when compared to Spax and the like.

Not sure what impact driver you're using but anything decent will have negligible judder. I'm using a battered old Hilti, never seen any instance of dislodging a ceiling below and given some of the pernicketty bastards I've worked over the years I'd certainly have heard if there had been problems after the job
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