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Anybody smart with door locks?

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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Anybody smart with door locks? Reply with quote

My key, screw, and bolt are all stuck like this:

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_1802_zpswpd2sjyi.jpg

Wut do?
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

spray oil and remove that 5mm long bolt .... remove cover plates .. wiggle key in lock till it turnes into correct position and remove ... i would replace ..
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bolt is properly stuck, no movement at all.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

take the door handle cover plates off.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The external side is off now, the internal won't come off due to a toggle thingy which is orientated the wrong way, and can't be turned because of the stuck mechanism.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1804_zpsicheirpm.jpg

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1805_zpswmemri2j.jpg
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove the key and wiggle the lock and cover plate till it moves about.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

will that bolt move with mole grips ?
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remove the key, it's stuck Laughing

I've managed to get the back plate off too but there is no access to any of the mechanism at all. Might have to bite the bullet and call a professional Evil or Very Mad

Annoyingly I have a colleague who's a locksmith, does he answer when I want him to? Like fuck Laughing
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you have is one of these:
https://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/anadin96/patiolock.jpg
My first question is was the lock/key stuck before you tried removing the screw, or did that happen as you were trying to remove it.

The screw you have sticking out is the retaining screw that is supposed to screw through the threaded hole in the lock.
Is looks like you've cross threaded it, hence why it's stuck. You really need to get that screw out. I'd try very tight mole grips. See if you can get it to move a degree or two, then move it back, wait a few seconds for the heat to dissipate then repeat, + one more degree. If you're lucky the screw will eventually come out. If you're unlucky you'll snap it and have to drill it out.
Once it's out you should be able to waggle the lock (ie. what's in the above picture) until the key moves, the black lever in the picture will then move flush with the brass body and you can pull it out. If that fails then waggle the key and tap the cross bolt (bit that goes into the door frame) with a hammer.

It that doesn't work it's the nuclear option - drill out the whole brass body (steel in your case Shocked ).

TBH if none of that works I'd consider a new door.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

it would appear the lock itself has jammed solid... the procedure is to break the lock inside the door: at the point where the 5mm bolt holds it in place: using a monkey wrench or large spanner this is the weakest point.. see jpg. above... this requires a degree of skill...

call your locksmith about now i think... Thumbs Up
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a new door.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locksmith on his way.

It's a problem entirely of my own making. Idiot features here ignored every brain cell and carried on trying to tighten the bolt after it had bottomed out "it's only wood it'll go another centimeter surely" I thought.

Moron.

Then the bolt was stuck completely, and rounded from trying to remove, I got frustrated and figured that if I could turn the lock, I'd just cut the head off the retaining bolt and leave it as is.

Trouble is the lock turned once and hasn't moved since. It's properly jammed up beyond any movement whatsoever.

Embarrassingly I work with tools in my day job, I should have known better.

Fingers crossed it isn't a replace the door solution!
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't wait to see pics of the mangled wreckage you pull out of that door.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Euro-cylinder locks. Brick Wall

Remember the three L's:

Lubrication.
Lubrication.
Lump hammer.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask and ye shall receive:

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_1806_zpssgerj7y3.jpg

Nearly had the locksmith stumped, good locks, Abloy!

£70 in locksmith fees later and it's all out at least. Brute strength and ignorance did it. The door survived mostly intact.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Nearly had the locksmith stumped, good locks, Abloy!

Yeah, right Laughing

c_dug wrote:
£70 in locksmith fees later and it's all out at least.

You got away relatively lightly there, Conan. A lot of dodgy (the norm) locksmiths would have charged you North of £200 for their 'services'.
Next time ask on here and leave a bit more time before you rush to call out the 'professionals'.
Removing such locks takes seconds and costs absolutely nothing.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 27 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

He came well recommended, even after all the faffing he didn't charge an extra penny.

The lock was pretty well stuck. It took a good 40 minutes solid working to get it removed. I helped him the whole time so no funny business there, just lots of hard work!

Basically I bottomed out the barrell retaining bolt so hard on the case of the lock that I bent the bolt, this in turn prevented the lock cam turning, hence having the key, locking bolt and retaining bolt all stuck Embarassed

Thanks for all the advice, I may have got it out if I'd left it a bit longer, but I honestly think it'd be unlikely, the locksmith was really going at it! I'd have needed a second big bloke to support the door for a start, and a whopping great big set of mole grips.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:

How the hell did you manage to bend that bolt so much without stripping the head first? Next time if a bolt bottoms out just remove it and Dremel a bit off the end.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_Pagin wrote:
How the hell did you manage to bend that bolt so much without stripping the head first? Next time if a bolt bottoms out just remove it and Dremel a bit off the end.


The "works with tools for a day job" bit of me lasted about as far as using a correctly sized screwdriver, it's impressive what good screwdriver technique can do, it stripped trying to remove it again, but there was no jumping in the slot, it literally tore through the metal Laughing

The bolt only snapped when mole-grips were used.

Annoyingly I can't even find the right deadlock in the lock store at work to replace the buggered one with, in a room full of literally hundreds of locks, not a single one matches the profile of my one!

I can't even find the correct type online, nothing seems to match my measurements.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Annoyingly I can't even find the right deadlock in the lock store at work to replace the buggered one with, in a room full of literally hundreds of locks, not a single one matches the profile of my one!

I can't even find the correct type online, nothing seems to match my measurements.

I suppose it could be an Imperial size lock, they tended to be slightly narrower than metric units. Ask your locksmith.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has that euro-cylinder been "snapped", in the way that naughty feeves are supposed to "snap" them?
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^
Yes, but it hasn't broken where they usually do because some Abloy 1* rated (or more) locks have hardened steel
centre section which takes a lot more force to break than the first cylinder pictured in this thread which is a hideous cheap
thing with an embarrasingly weak spot. https://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/anadin96/patiolock.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lzX5sSTbig

See. I've broken several like that in my time.

Personally I prefer the YALE version myself, they have laser cut keys so it discourages my tenants to get extra keys cut for
undeclared parties during a tenancy, which is hard to do anyway when you don't have the card with the barcode on it.

https://www.yaledoorandwindowsolutions.co.uk/en/yale/yaledoorandwindowsolutions_co_uk/productsdb/cylinders/yale-superior/superior-1-cylinders-double/

I use them on all my properties including my home. Thumbs Up
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The snap proof bit didn't actually give, he managed to get enough movement wiggling the whole lot side to side to get a small drill bit to the retaining bolt. I believe it was actually the door itself that gave room for drilling rather than the lock. It really took an impressive beating.

I'm not actually specifically after an Abloy lock, it was just a case of that's what we use in the museum, and I managed to lay my hands on one that hadn't been suited to the museum lockset yet so I could take.

Anyway, for those not very lock-smart, I'm definitely going to ensure all my future locks are snap proof, I'd recommend you do too. If it wasn't snap proof we would have been into the flat within a minute, and with relatively little noise.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 28 Feb 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's good to see the improved strength cylinders taking a kicking like that. The Yale ones are designed to snap more
or less flush with the door to foil snap attacks. The remainder of the lock blocking the thiefs access to the inner door mech.
BUT, using half of the key the authorised person can still obtain entry with it even if the lock is partially broken.
At the end of the day if someone wants in badly enough, a brick is all you need regardless of locks and alarms.
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