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Gazz
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Drilling plastic Reply with quote

Recently fitted hand guards, and now I want to mount some indicators to the front of them but I also want it to look tidy so I'm going to route the wiring on the inside of the guards which will require drilling the new handguards.

What drill bit should I be using for this? The plastic appears to be quite brittle (I'm suspecting anyway) and I only have drill bits for wood, metal or masonry.

I also have a dremel with various bits, but dont know if this would be any better for using.

Was also thinking of trying to heat up something and melt the area I need to drill in a very localised area to produce a hold to avoid shattering the plastic.

I only need a very small hole to fit a small thin wire though, so unsure how to go about doing this.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used titanium (metal) drill bits on plastic many times, that said I believe you can purchase plastic specific bits with a sharper point.
If I was attempting a bodge job I'd probly use the wood bit to get a pilot hole of sorts, then over to titanium to finish her off. (altho in reality I'd just buy some plastic bits)

I've never tried heating up the drill bit before drilling it, but couldn't hurt I guess? (unless its white hot and you have a plastic hand chuck drill)
Absolutely under no circumstances should you use the masonry bit on it, you will be picking plastic out of your bollocks. Laughing
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Last edited by Commuter_Tim on 23:26 - 26 Mar 2016; edited 1 time in total
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Fin
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be fine with the metal bits if you are very careful.

e: Try and keep the speed up and the pressure low and steady, once the hole is made don't slow down, just bring the drill out straight, otherwise it might catch and crack the plastic.


Last edited by Fin on 23:27 - 26 Mar 2016; edited 1 time in total
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supZ
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

high speed turn and slow push.

as long as you keep the speed up you won't crack the plastic, just go slow and work your way through it.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, and put a bit of masking tape over the bit you intend to drill to prevent skipping.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A metal bit and stick some insulating tape over the point where you want to drill.
Fast speed light pressure.

I've also heated up a thin nail and used that to push through a side panel. It will create a burr where it enters which is fine if it's hidden and you haven't got a drill.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any burrs can be removed with a larger sharp handheld drill bit. Thumbs Up
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mauzo
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soldering iron (and a bit you don't care about).
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

mauzo wrote:
Soldering iron (and a bit you don't care about).


Messy and can produce a hard and brittle area round the hole as well as leaving hard brittle burrs. Drilling is far neater and quicker as well. Razz
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 03:46 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be an idea to fit a rubber grommet in the hole once you've drilled it to prevent any sharp edges chaffing the wires over time
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:33 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fear with drilling plastic is that the drill bit will pull itself into the work. Try clamping the part between a couple of bits of mdf or if you can't do that use an oilstone to blunt the drill by stoning a tiny flat across the cutting edge. Reduced back-off helps, if you grind your own drill bits, that's the front clearance angle and it controls the amount the drill is able to feed per revolution.

Don't use a pilot hole unless you're drilling large diameter then only use a very small one.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 08:35 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the feedback. Will let you know how I get on. Thumbs Up
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://cdn.meme.am/instances/62056534.jpg
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recman
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Re: Drilling plastic Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
What drill bit should I be using for this?


Bit late to the party but I have a set of bullet bits for much very excellence plastic drilling ease and neatness. Thumbs Up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the sake of the argument, there is no issue using a masonry bit to make a hole as the 'point' is blunt so won't 'dig in' like most other twist drill bits.
In plastic a masonry bit would probably make the hole due to frictional heat and melt it's way through the material.
Masonry bits rely on a percussion method of 'drilling' and the twisting is only to present the bit at a fresh cut and help remove cutting.

Masonry bits are superb for drilling cast steel and other metals too hard for cobalt/manganese/HSS bits.
They have to have a leading edge ground onto the carbide inserts though to work as a twist drill.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
For the sake of the argument, there is no issue using a masonry bit to make a hole as the 'point' is blunt so won't 'dig in' like most other twist drill bits.

Well you could I guess...
https://g03.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1yObnJXXXXXbnXFXXq6xXFXXXJ/113583063/HTB1yObnJXXXXXbnXFXXq6xXFXXXJ.jpg
You could also stick your shoes out at 60mph to slow yourself down a bit, but why would you want to? Thinking
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 28 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
The fear with drilling plastic is that the drill bit will pull itself into the work. Try clamping the part between a couple of bits of mdf or if you can't do that use an oilstone to blunt the drill by stoning a tiny flat across the cutting edge. Reduced back-off helps, if you grind your own drill bits, that's the front clearance angle and it controls the amount the drill is able to feed per revolution.

Don't use a pilot hole unless you're drilling large diameter then only use a very small one.


Canoeists drill holes into very expensive bits of plastic a lot.

They usually recommend a negative rake on the drill bit (so grinding the cutting edge to a double sided point like on a knife rather than the usual single faced edge like on a wood chisel). This helps stop the drill "catching".

Step drill for larger holes.
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