load on battery - accessories

[rubyhorse2]

how much load can i wire in to the battery?

i currently have my optimate lead permanently wired in.

Planning to wire my satnav and also an autocom system

Now, i presume they dont drain power when not connected, so i guess it would be ok.

what about load on the battery when all in use (obviously not the optimate)?

just wanting some advise and confirmation before i do anything silly.

cheers

[MCN]

Step away from the motorcycle.


The load carrying capability depends on the gauge (thickness/diameter) of the wire/cable. More precisely, the cross sectional area of the metal part of the conductor.

Lay-person: If you have a lot of 'power' volts, amps, ohms, watts & etc horsing through a wire then it creates electrical friction. This will slow down the power and also more importantly create heat.
Too much heat can melt the plastic insulation.
If the metal conductor touches to ground then it will blow protection or turn bike into fireball.

Find out how many amps the devices draw and add it together to get total load.
Then look on the Internet for the thickness of cable.

Do you want me to google that for you?

Satnav Phone etc draw milliamps so a normal wire will do (Ball park without googling 1-1.5mm)

And ADVICE

Or ADVISE

Google that too.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[bamt]

The other part of the answer - the combined load of your satnav and autocom will likely be less than 5W once running; almost every normal bike wouldn't even blink at that additional load which is equivalent to a tail light.

You should consider running them through a relay to ensure they are only powered up when the bike is running, otherwise there will be a constant small current draw. Not enough to cause an issue if you ride regularly, but still best practice to avoid it - especially if the bike spends weeks not being ridden.

[stinkwheel]

Third issue is (tediously) what bike? How new a bike?

If it's fairly new, there is a possability it's canbus controlled wiring which would mean you need to be a tad more circumspect than normal about how and where you wire accessories in or it can start having a tantrum.

This, apparently, is progress.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Rogerborg]

If canbus, just make sure that you use a relay and wire it in beyond where the canbus magic happens. For example, I spliced into my headlamp wire just as it goes into the bulb socket. The headlamp comes on when the engine is running, which is when I want the power, and the draw from the relay is insignificant compared to the expected variability in draw from nominally "55W" bulbs, so the canbus doesn't spazz out.

Here, I'll shill for you:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2444272
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[rubyhorse2]

thanks for the input.

more info for you..

KTM Superduke R 2008
Buying a Zumo 340LM with cables as supplied
Got an autocom active rider

all the cables are included so i was literally just going to wire it all up.

cheers

[Rogerborg]

I'd spring a few £££ for a relay. Something like this, then replace the 30A fuse with a 5A which is still good for 60W.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[rubyhorse2]

Cheers roger, sorry total numbnuts at this kind of thing, where would i fit the relay?

[J.M.]

[MCN]

[Rogerborg]