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Slippedy do dah

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Silver_Fox
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Slippedy do dah Reply with quote

Diagnosing a slipping clutch...

On the CG125, when under hard acceleration from 3rd upwards, the clutch feels like it's not making a solid connection and there's a small amount of slipping for a few seconds. I find that I'm pushing the lever back out with my hand after changing gear to minimise it, and while that reduces it, it's still apparent. Sat in neutral (engine off), if I pull the lever it doesn't quite return all the way. Pushing the lever away fully moves the arm on the clutch cover another few mm. The lever is nice and free, I've lubed the cable, and it doesn't appear to feel notchy, so I don't think they're playing a part in it. That's where my knowledge of clutches ends...

It's done 33k


*Can o worms* I'm pretty certain it's worse since the oil change (10w 40 semi but car stuff)
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adjusted the cable at both ends?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stick Car 10w40 semi synth in my exup and it doesn't damage the clutch.

Try high gear with clutch and low-miedium revs and then give it full throttle. Does the revs rise with no noticable increase in speed, only to drop back down if you reduce throttle?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Re: Slippedy do dah Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:
On the CG125, when under hard acceleration

Laughing Laughing Laughing

As CaNsA says, try adjusting the cable first. Thumbs Up
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Silver_Fox
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaNsA wrote:
Adjusted the cable at both ends?



At the top end. If I give it more free play all it does is make the bite point closer to the bars (still slips slightly at full throttle). It's as if there's not enough pressure pulling the clutch/lever back. I guess at that mileage it could be a combination of weak return AND worn plates, but I'm only guessing
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could also be a snagging cable.

Replace it but don't forget to run the new alongside the old first. Thumbs Up
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
It could also be a snagging cable.

Replace it but don't forget to run the new alongside the old first. Thumbs Up


Yep, new cable, you won't believe the difference. Thumbs Up
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:
CaNsA wrote:
Adjusted the cable at both ends?



At the top end. If I give it more free play all it does is make the bite point closer to the bars (still slips slightly at full throttle). It's as if there's not enough pressure pulling the clutch/lever back. I guess at that mileage it could be a combination of weak return AND worn plates, but I'm only guessing


So only at one end then?
Not at the clutch side.... Rolling Eyes

adjust it.
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Silver_Fox
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I took the lever off to lube the cable it felt pretty decent. When I ran the housing up and down the wire as much as possible to circulate the lube it didn't strike me as fouling or stiff (I work on MTB's a lot with multiple cables), but for £8 I guess it's worth a stab
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

For fucks sake, just adjust it at the clutch end.... Brick Wall
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mauzo
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lever should snap back pretty hard when you release it: there should be no question of pushing it back with your hand. Check the cable routing, to make sure it isn't getting pinched somewhere. After that, assuming the cable and lever are all clean and moving freely and properly adjusted, you're into bad springs. Maybe try disconnecting the cable at the clutch end and pushing the little lever with your thumb: you shouldn't be able to move it against the spring.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also try putting a little engine oil on the clutch seal (under the little metal arm, where it goes into the crankcase) and pulling the clutch lever a few times to work it in, on the off chance that is part of the problem.
A new clutch cable seems like a good idea in any case (as an ex-CBT bike it will have had a hard time, I expect). My CG is like a new bike since the fresh cable went on. Almost stalled the bike starting off since the bite point came so much sooner than I was expecting. Thumbs Up
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Silver_Fox
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:
A new clutch cable seems like a good idea in any case (as an ex-CBT bike it will have had a hard time, I expect). My CG is like a new bike since the fresh cable went on. Almost stalled the bike starting off since the bite point came so much sooner than I was expecting. Thumbs Up



Thanks. Where did yours? Any outlet you'd recommend? I'm not sure if it's worth forking out for a genuine Honda part or if aftermarket is sufficient
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:


Thanks. Where did yours? Any outlet you'd recommend? I'm not sure if it's worth forking out for a genuine Honda part or if aftermarket is sufficient


If a factory part is available, buy it.

A/ You know it's going to fit
B/ It's a fair assumption that it will be of good quality*

I've had pattern cables fail on me after less than 100 miles (left me stranded, with no option but recovery) pattern gaskets that neither fitted properly, or sealed correctly and various other pattern parts that just weren't up to snuff.

On low value items like cables, I'd say it's not worth the risk.

*I know lots of the big companies are now sourcing parts from unfashionable manufacturing areas, but I prefer the idea of buying from a main agent, I reckon I stand more chance of getting some kind of recompence, following an early failure.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silver_Fox wrote:
FredTheHorse wrote:
A new clutch cable seems like a good idea in any case (as an ex-CBT bike it will have had a hard time, I expect). My CG is like a new bike since the fresh cable went on. Almost stalled the bike starting off since the bite point came so much sooner than I was expecting. Thumbs Up



Thanks. Where did yours? Any outlet you'd recommend? I'm not sure if it's worth forking out for a genuine Honda part or if aftermarket is sufficient


No worries.
Do you mean where did the clutch cable? I did it myself, with a head torch in the pouring rain (after it snapped on the way to work, ride home was 2nd worst I have ever had) Razz

Took 15 minutes (5 to check routing and run the new one alongside, 5 to disconnect the old one, clean the gunk out from behind the clutch lever and 5 to connect and adjust), dead simple.

I'm with Shaft on this one, the price differential is so small, its not worth the risk (its only about £3 difference). I've had some aftermarket bits that are fine but for such small amounts I tend to just get the OEM stuff.

Here is the OEM cable for £13 (as opposed to £10 on ebay). Bear in mind there will be shipping as well, so its worth picking up a few bits at once.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:30 - 07 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you un-hook the cable at the engine end you should be able to flap the lever with no effort by pushing/pulling the cable end with your fingertips. If you can't, clean and lube the cable, check it for kinks and that it hasn't been pinched in the lock-stops and check the lever pivot too.

If that's ok check the oil level is not too high.
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