Brake Pad Recommendations

[Falco]

Noticed last week that my brake fluid has dropped to 3/4 - 1/2 down the sight glass. Checked the calipers and no leakage so I guess it must be the pads wearing. This time I plan to change them myself.

I am currently using EBC SFA054 organic pads (its a CG124 ES4), but they have only been in for 2,000 miles, which seems a bit low.

Does anyone have any recommendations for decently hard wearing pads?

[chris-red]

Check the pads rather than relying on the fluid level. I can't say I've noticed the level drop with knackered pads and that is with large dual caliper setups.

I've always used EBC Sintered (HH)

Someone will no doubt be along to tell you "Sintered ruins discs". I ran nothing but sintered pads in my TDM and the discs lasted for 70 something thousand miles. What ruins discs is poor maintenance.

The provide far superior stopping power especially in the wet.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[RhynoCZ]

What Chris says, always check the pads, not the fluid. When people bleed brakes with worn pads, they always pour in the fluid up to the top notch of the reservoir.

2000 miles? Is the caliper binding? I did, double of that on the ZX7R and the pads were still alright for the next 5-6 thousand miles and maybe more, when I sold the motorcycle. Something's just not right, when a set of brake pads last longer in a heavy ''superbike'' than in a light 125cc commuter motorcycle.

Anyway, I also second the Sintered pads idea.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[jaffa90]

2,000 miles ???? Some thing is sadly wrong so find out before replacing them.

[Beehive Bedlam]

Galfers give good stopping power long lasting and kick up virtually no dust.

SBS give super stopping power in all conditions not as hard wearing as the Galfers but I can live with that.

[MCN]

If you change material then you may have to rub the discs using 600 wet and dry to remove the brake material coating.
Then fit the new pads and bed them in.
It's a cnut of a task but it can reduce brake performance/expectation disappointment.

I support the front wheel of the ground and drive the wheel using a drilling machine against the tyre.
Just don't go mental with the speed or the wheel may eat your fingers.
Dig any old brake detritus from the place where the pads locate.
Clean everything with brake cleaner.
The pads should slip in easily. If not then the calliper isn't clean yet. Do again.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Falco]

Thanks for the replies guys.

[RhynoCZ]

If you fit brand new pads, fill the brake fluid reservoir up to the top notch, and then ride and the pads get worn, the fluid level should drop a bit, but not this quick. 2000 miles is a really short period of time. Motorcycles more powerful (faster) and heavier don't eat the pads this quick, that is what's making us concerned.

Definitely check the pads.

IF the brake system was leaking, you'll see a lot of air bubbles when you're going to bleed the system.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[Falco]

[Falco]

Finally looked at the front wheel to check if the brake is binding, I think it may well be. I say this because though the wheel turns pretty freely, there is a faint hissing/grinding noise.

I have included pictures of the discs. I don't know what they are supposed to look like, but I have a bad feeling that the pads have been binding and those lines are scores on the disc.
Is it bad? Should I be looking to replace the disc as well as the pads?


https://i65.tinypic.com/29e3zmd.jpg

Close up:

https://i64.tinypic.com/14bnhix.jpg

[chris-red]

I think it's fine, you will hear a slight noise from there when pushing around. Push it hit the brakes to stop you let go then push it again, you shouldn't feel any extra resistance from front.

I wouldn't replace that disc unless it was under thickness or warped.

Take the caliper off.
Remove pads.
pump the Piston(s) out a little bit (careful not to go too far) just till you see clean metal.
You brake cleaner and a cloth/toothbrush to clean the black crap off the pistons.
Push a bit of lithum/red rubber grease on the pistons and push them back in.
Replace pads (Renew if warn) and put a smear of copper slip on the back.
Clean/Grease the sliding pins.
Put it back on.

Should take half hour if that.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Falco]

Thanks Chris.

No extra resistance after hitting the brakes, though the lever can now get almost all the way to the bar, so there is something a bit wonky somewhere. The Disc (as of 2 months ago) is within spec and not warped.

Cheers for the step-by-step. Brake cleaner (and hopefully new pads) due on Wednesday, so hopefully be able to tackle it soon. I'll try to remember to take some pics if there is anything odd about the pads, I will be interested to find out why they have worn so fast.

[tom_e]

How do the actual pads look? It's a 2 minute job to unbolt the caliper so you can see them.

It definitely sounds like you've gotten air in the system some how.

[chris-red]

[RhynoCZ]

[chris-red]

?
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Rogerborg]

Quick aside, my GS completely devoured a set of EBC/FA209/2 pads in exactly 2000 miles. They were disappointingly thin to begin with. I can't find any sign that the brake is binding.

I've replaced them with Brembo branded pads, which started out substantially fatter. Further bulletins as events warrant.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[RhynoCZ]

[chris-red]

[chris-red]

You can use water if you really want.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[tom_e]

[chris-red]

[Falco]

[Chuffin Nora]

[Rogerborg]