Indicators active horn. Wut do? [update]

[NJD]

So on two occasions I've pressed the switch to activate the indicators and the horn has sounded for about three to five seconds and then turned itself off. The first time was during a ride and I ignored it because I figured I'd just somehow pressed it without realising half asleep in auto mode. The second, today, confirmed there's somewhat of an issue during pre-ride checks when I turned the indicators on and the horn sounded, again three to five seconds aprox and stopped.

I'm not making a meal out of nothing and I've narrowed it down (with what common sense I have) to two things. Either a dirty connection inside the switch gear that needs cleaning or a replacement horn for a fiver.

Question: Can I spray WD-40 through the gap in the indicator switch in the hope that it will clean the inside of the switch gear out or do I need to remove the switch gear unit to clean the insides out? (I don't know what I'm looking at if this is the case so they'll be more to follow).

I don't have a multi meter to test the horn but I've pressed the button and it works and sounds fine. Leads me to believe it's just a dirty switch gear inside causing an occasional issue. Not as accurate as a multi meter I appreciate.

No pictures as of yet since I'm hoping a WD-40 squirt through the gap will do the job without any major dramas.

edit: lexmoto arrow.

[jaffa90]

You sound sensible and have knowledge about electrics and mechanical switches, yes with ignition switch off and the keys in your pocket drench the switch cluster with wd40 and flick and press and let it drain out over night before trying again. If no joy strip and clean.
Other wise renew.

[stirlinggaz]

hi,
instead of wd40, why not use electrical contact cleaner?
buy it from maplins or on-line & squirt into any gaps around switchgear, if your not confident taking it apart.
if this doesnt work, open switch up & look for any signs of corrosion ie grey or green furring up (clean with needle file or emery paper then give a quick squirt of contact cleaner) or broken/frayed wires.

wd40 has its uses but im not convinced its any good at cleaning up corroded/dodgy switch gear electrics.
I'd MAYBE use it AFTER cleaning up contacts to PREVENT corrosion. ...
cheers,
GAZ

[jaffa90]

[Efes123]

It's unlikely to be the actual horn, as that seems to be work, possibly too well

As you're only testing for a live connection, you could use a small bulb on a wire to test as you don't have a multimeter. As others have said, it's very likely to be a dodgy connection at the switch. You don't need much skill to clean it, undo the screws/nuts and use sandpaper

You should try to find out why it's corroded (if it is), otherwise, the problem will just return at some point.
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[Pete.]

On most jap bikes the horn is fed power and grounded at the button. The horn sounds, so you have a working unit. The button is right next to the indicator switch, so that's almost certainly where your fault lies.

It's doubtful that a squirt of spray is going to cure it. If there was crap in the switch it won't carry enough current to sound the horn. More likely to be a mechanical fault like a chafed wire in the switch, or if your bike has the type of alarm that sounds the horn with the alarm, a faulty alarm unit.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[NJD]

Ok, thanks all. I'll pick up some sandpaper and contact cleaner today and have a go at tackling it tomorrow. I've "run" to a dealer with such issues in the past and cannot be bothered anymore so I'd rather take it at my own pace than need to be in a rush to get to work etc.

I haven't removed it before but the haynes makes it sound like a somewhat easy job, I think I've already pre planned it out:

Remove choke lever and cable.
Disconnect switchgear wiring.
Undo switchgear screw and disconnect.

Choke lever (according to the manual, I need to look in person) is held on by one screw at the very bottom of the switchgear and upon removal will allow the choke cable to be removed. Switchgear wiring (according to the haynes, I need to trace it in person) should reside in the headlight unit and is a simple case of undoing two screws to remove the face of the headlight to get at the inside and disconnect the wires. Other than that it's a case of taking the unit of and looking inside (a single screw). I suppose I could look at the connectors in the headlight while I'm at it just to ensure that the fault doesn't lie where the two wires meet and are plugged in (if the wiring is inside the headlight).

I'll update and post pictures when I've got the unit out or should I get stuck or need to seek advice upon removal tomorrow.

[mysterious_rider]

Do yourself a favour first. Just spray inside with wd40 or duck oil or similar. Frantically presss all switches. Then put ign on and test.

Follow the wires of switch to the plug. Undo it and spray it up. I bet it the plug terminals that are corroded and its earthing through horn or something.

Last resort undo switch. They are fiddly
____________________
KAWASAKIIIII

[NJD]

I'll start small by spraying the switch and checking the condition of the switchgear wiring plug in the headlight and go from there. Just time to wait then to see if the problem occurs again, as it happens at random its not one that can be reproduced or instantly fixed without trial and error.

To confirm you mean to spray contact cleaner directly into the wiring plug? Also would electrical tape around the plug be wise to seal it tight or leave as is?

[andyscooter]

stop indicating


I had this on a gilera turned out to be a bit of wire crossing the terminals
____________________
gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet

[CaNsA]

https://i.imgur.com/RPxdjTw.jpg

[NJD]

[andyscooter]

[NJD]

Sprayed the switch with the contact cleaner from the outside, didn't make an instant difference so I'll leave it to work its magic. Managed to reproduce the issue once by pressing the horn and then turning the indicator on afterwards, and the horn sounded briefly. The indicator switch felt somewhat stiff for a brief moment so I'm going with the switch needs cleaning from the inside in the long run. Horn sounded like a wet fart, not sure if I'm noticing because issue or has always been a wet fart, whatever, it works.

Removed the seat and found that the wiring from the horn traces back to a switch that resides behind the L/H fairing panel (is visible when you remove seat through the frame.. L/H not R/H as I'd said previously, oops), the wiring it's connected to also goes into the headlight (information not entirely needed and is separate, more a note for me and any one else that comes across this post).

Wiring under the rear seat looks to be in good condition with no sign of damage or snagging anywhere, had plenty of white grease in the main collection of wires of which I assume is Dielectric Grease. From the manual the tank is held on by two bolts and washers and then it's a case of lifting up and sliding back the tank and then disconnecting all the switches and fuel hose to remove the tank. Looks like the mechanic didn't put the rubber washers back on properly last time since the one side is lopsided, something I'll play attention to at a latter date.

I'll see what if any difference the small spray of contact cleaner made in a couple of days and then go from there should the issue reoccur.

[NJD]

[UPDATE]

So the issue came back to bite me on the arse on a lovely sunny days ride after I sounded the horn at a car that was arsing around in front of me and the horn stuck on. Went jelly legged, pulled over to the side of the road and disconnected the wires that connect to the horn so that I didn't drain my battery and could get home.

Disconnected the horn and played around with the adjustment screw on the back. Currently sitting at a point whereby the horn is not constantly on and instead only activates for as long as you press the button. I've only fiddled with this because I was tried to deasemble to horn prior to watching a video and released what I'd undone fully afterwards so put it back in and played around until it wasn't constantly on or didn't work at all and found the middle ground again.

Firstly because there's a chance of the horn getting stuck on again is there any way the horn could drain the battery with the ignition of over night?

Secondly while I had the horn in my hand there was lots of clicking on the inside and not long before I got it to where its currently at a bit of whirring. Felt like to me (with the horn in my hand) something was clicking inside like it wasn't catching.

Everything on the switch is working. I tried to take apart the horn (they're only a fiver so if I broke it then there's no love lost, doing no harm by attempting to tackle the unignorable issue at hand) but had no luck. The flathead screw that holds the back on is tight as fudge and damaged a little when I attempted to put some force into it to undo it so left that alone.

The horn sounds a little like a wet fart. The video I watched suggested connecting a multi meter to the horn connectors from the switch and then directly to the horn to determine what one is spazzing out based on voltage readings. Do I need one to go out and get one?

[Pete.]

Something isn't adding up.

You say that operating the indicators sometimes makes the horn sound. Well that can only be a fault in the switch. Now you say that pressing the horn has made it stay on. Well, that also points to a fault in the switch.

Why are you taking the horn unit apart?
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[P.addy]

[NJD]