Oil pan replacement

[blindasabat]

I have a Kawasaki er6-f 2009 and was doing an oil change and when putting back the oil sump plug using the torque wrench I have made a jester off myself oops by over tightening the bolt and guffed the thread in the sump,it still tightens slightly but not enough to stop a leak, I have looked at awe thing from hell coil to over sized bolts I have spoken to a couple of garages and the said they could rebore it and it would be a couple hours work, £120 that would be plus parts, thinking I can get a new pan for less and was wondering how easy a job it is to replace I am a bit of a novice can do basic stuff, I tried looking online for vids or instructions on how to replace said sump but can't find much. How difficult is it, any help would be much appreciated on the best way to go here.

[Pete.]

2 hours to fit a sump helicoil?

Anyway, they'll probably use a kit like this, take 10 minutes and charge you 2 hours. No reason why you couldn't do the same yourself.

https://r.ebay.com/PSi2EP
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[doggone]

I'd be generous and suggest the time set aside from bike in to bike out could easily be more than an hour.
Changing the pan is a bigger job than trying the fix mentioned above - several bolts to undo which might prove stubborn - round off or even snap - then it will need a new gasket which could prove awful tricky to install perfectly.
Just being certain the replacement you get is exactly the same is a minefield.

[NJD]

A torque wrench on a drain plug? To clarify drain plugs are finger tightened then a little bit more with your spanner / socket?

[Falco]

[NJD]

[iooi]

[Falco]

[NJD]

I've got a 3/8 socket that fits the drain plug perfectly but was debating if a ring spanner would be the better bet when it came to tighten it up for feel and a lower risk of over doing it.

Red arrow = loosen, green = tighten. I've got it, I hope. It was just the whole upside down thing that was throwing me off.

https://s32.postimg.org/hofvxuoid/oil.png

I don't know if I'm going to bother with a torque wrench. There's really no specific torque setting for chinese bikes and even when it comes to things like the real wheel axle in the haynes it just says "tighten" no torque settings on chapter or in description. In fact, scanning through the haynes chapter by chapter, the only chapters with torque settings outside of the generic advice of anything up to a 12mm bolt is the engine chapters.

[Kickstart]

Hi

If careful and you can accept the risk the you can hellicoil / fit an over size sump plug without disassembly.

But I would prefer to do it with the sump off.

If you remove the sump then be very careful with any seals between the sump and the engine internals. On some engines the oil is directed through passageways in the sump (GPZ500 for example), hence leaving out one of those seals (which can drop out easily when replacing the sump with the engine the normal way up) can result in stuff all oil pressure.

All the best

Katy
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Falco]

[monkeybiker]

Unless it's a bolt that requires a lot of force like a clutch bolt or engine head bolts I wouldn't use a torque wrench and just go by feel.

[NJD]

[Falco]

[Ed Case]

£45 on fleabay, be tempted to do it myself, might need a gasket of course.