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CBR 125 RW9 not starting

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davidnumeral
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 02 May 2016
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: CBR 125 RW9 not starting Reply with quote

so i have a cbr 125 rw9 FI model, after the old carbon steel exhaust blowing i decided to change it, loan behold part of the header pipe was stuck in the cylinder head. the only way to get it out was to take the engine off or risk hitting other components. long story short. after taking the engine off and putting it back together the right way (i have a logical mind) so everything is where it should be and all good. however the bike refuses to start, it will spark but only ever turns over on the starter motor it will not fully fire.

this is what i have tried so far....

tappet clearance to service manual spec Intake - 0.06mm +- 0.002mm Exhaust - 0.27 +-0.011mm
new tank of fuel after being flushed to get rid of anything old.
new copper core spark plug
fuses have been checked and all OK
injectors have been cleaned and seem to be sending fuel (plug gets wet)
spark plug is sparking with a (blue) spark against the frame.
new HT lead only fitted 2 months ago.
breather and vacuum pipes are all ok none kinked or broken.
new oil to the required mark on the dip stick.

im at a total loss! and its frustrating the hell out of me Sad the bike started and ran fine before it was removed form the bike, but after it was all put back in the same way it refuses now.....

any troubleshooting or guidance would be great and thanks in advance
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spottedtango
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Joined: 04 Dec 2015
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

An engine needs 3 things to run. Compression, spark and fuel.

You're saying you're getting a spark and fuel as the plugs are wet. That would only leave compression.


Have you checked the compression and valve timing as it's very easy to get timing a tooth out?

If compression is okay then you need to double check the injectors or ignition system
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

when doing the timing i have it to the T mark on the crank and then my partner was holing it in place so it would not move. (more steady hands than me!) done the timing to almost spot on perfect.

there is LOTS of compression as it will blow your finger away when the plug is out.

the injector unit was removed and all cleaned out best i could. still nada...
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Jmh600
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost spot on, and actually spot on are two different things. If it's not timed correctly you can cause a serious shit storm inside your engine.
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

lets go for spot on lol the feeler gauges moved freely but with a little resistance not overly tight and not overly free. checked almost 5 times after manual rotation of the engine via the inspection ports turning the 17mm bolt inside
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Jmh600
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're on about valve clearances. Not timing. But a haynes manual for your bike and try again.
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a hanyes manual already, followed the steps in the book, thats where i got all my measurements from
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds as if compression is okay but there's something being over looked.

If the bike was running before then its unlikely there's going to be anything major wrong.

I'm assuming you can hear fuel pump priming when you turn the key. You've made sure that the fuel hose is firmly clipped into the tank/fuel pump as they can take a bit of a push to get on.

A dodgy injector can be tested by unclipping the wires from the injector and measuring the resistance between the two pins. This can be compared with a values from a workshop/haynes manual. It's unlikely to be this though

When you say taken the engine off you're meaning the cylinder head off or the entire engine out the frame?

Id check earth's and just have a general look about the electrics to see everything's where it should be. Neutral/ oil pump wires, side stand switch.



I'm willing to bet its something electrical.


Last edited by spottedtango on 20:55 - 02 May 2016; edited 2 times in total
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

@spottedtango.

yes full engine out, the frame was looking shabby so i thought might as well clean and paint it at the same time. im in two minds myself its is an electrical issue. i cant see any fuses bust but there is 1 fuse that i cannot see! its a 30 amp fuse. i have a spare in my battery bay so must have 1 on the bike somewhere, ive been looking through my manual but cannot find it anywhere Sad losing the will to live at this point lol
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant to add, you've made sure the (MAP/MAF) airflow sensors along with (TPS) throttle position sensor, if its a fly by wire type have all been reattached and clipped in properly.
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its something daft honestly. Go have a cup of tea and come back to it Laughing
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 02 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol i will ponder at it at work tomorrow, it's cable throttle system, all the cables are attached where they should be so i will have another bash at at and see what it brings to light.
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davidnumeral
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 03 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

so...after looking at the bike a little further i found that the rubber intake sleeve that goes from the injector unit to the cylinder head was misaligned, however the bike will still not go after this was pushed back to where it should be. i also checked the injector electrics and all seems to be in order. i though maybe the injector EMU might have been at fault but after testing the electronics all seems well also.

any other theories?
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