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		| Jammie222211 | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Jammie222211
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		|  berzerker
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		| Jammie222211 | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Jammie222211
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		| NJD | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  NJD
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				|   Posted: 11:30 - 08 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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				| <Smiles> Oh the bitter joy that is an electrical starting issue at least once in a Lexmoto owners life, the memories. You're not the first and wont be the last.
 I'm not saying this will solve your issue but I'm not saying it wont. My generic advice would be to replace the OEM spark plug and cap with the NGK alternative. Tracing the killswitch on the sidestand wiring up to the plug and disconnecting may also help. Theory is the killswitch on the sidestands are known to short and cause issues due to poor position and road crud. OEM cap and plug are just crap. Trace the killswitch wire from the sidestand into and under the bike (you'll probably have to remove the L/H side panel and seat) and find the plug. Removing the spark plug requires a ring spanner and the spark plug tool that came in your toolkit or a (I think) 18mm deep spanner, 3/8 since 1/4 doesn't go that far up in size, if you're not all that mechanically minded stick with the spanner and basic toolkit method since there's less chance of you over tightening the spark plug and ending up with a bodyguard thread. Spark plug loosens anti-clockwise, cap is removed by simply grabbing the rubber end furthest down the spark plug and pulling towards you.
 
 Outside of that I'd say if you're not confident in stripping the bike of its panels and fuel tank and getting in amongst all the wiring with a multi meter just hand it over to your local trusted independent lexmoto dealer and let them have a go at it, they've probably seen plenty in their time and will know what to look for. Good news is, or at least in my case, once you've had it done it shouldn't happen again and I ride in all weathers so there's some hope.
 
 I own a Lexmoto Arrow, here's what some of my wiring looks like once the issue had been fixed. Cable ties to keep the connectors together and plenty of dialectic grease.
 
 https://s32.postimg.org/fb3al926d/1_1_Copy.jpg
 
 In my case you can have the L/H and R/H fairing panels and seat of in less than five minutes. I've yet to remove the tank but that's where the rest of the wiring resides on my model, two bolts on the rear of the tank under the seat, the only reason I haven't removed it yet is just because I don't feel like its something I want to fiddle with for no reason yet.
 
 Accurate model specific wiring diagrams are near non existent I'm afraid.
 
 So yeah, long and short: try the above if that doesn't work ask a dealer to take a look at it. Do wait for others comments though since they might know what checks to perform to narrow it down without needing to fork out for labour costs, of which that's all this job will be.
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		| Jammie222211 | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Jammie222211
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		|  NJD
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		| Jammie222211 | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Jammie222211
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		| herulach | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  herulach
 World Chat Champion
 
 
 
 Joined: 19 Apr 2010
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				|   Posted: 13:39 - 08 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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				|  	  | NJD wrote: |  	  | <Smiles> Oh the bitter joy that is an electrical starting issue at least once in a Lexmoto owners life, the memories. You're not the first and wont be the last.
 
I'm not saying this will solve your issue but I'm not saying it wont. My generic advice would be to replace the OEM spark plug and cap with the NGK alternative. Tracing the killswitch on the sidestand wiring up to the plug and disconnecting may also help. Theory is the killswitch on the sidestands are known to short and cause issues due to poor position and road crud. OEM cap and plug are just crap. Trace the killswitch wire from the sidestand into and under the bike (you'll probably have to remove the L/H side panel and seat) and find the plug. Removing the spark plug requires a ring spanner and the spark plug tool that came in your toolkit or a (I think) 18mm deep spanner, 3/8 since 1/4 doesn't go that far up in size, if you're not all that mechanically minded stick with the spanner and basic toolkit method since there's less chance of you over tightening the spark plug and ending up with a bodyguard thread. Spark plug loosens anti-clockwise, cap is removed by simply grabbing the rubber end furthest down the spark plug and pulling towards you.
 
Outside of that I'd say if you're not confident in stripping the bike of its panels and fuel tank and getting in amongst all the wiring with a multi meter just hand it over to your local trusted independent lexmoto dealer and let them have a go at it, they've probably seen plenty in their time and will know what to look for. Good news is, or at least in my case, once you've had it done it shouldn't happen again and I ride in all weathers so there's some hope.
 
I own a Lexmoto Arrow, here's what some of my wiring looks like once the issue had been fixed. Cable ties to keep the connectors together and plenty of dialectic grease.
https://s32.postimg.org/fb3al926d/1_1_Copy.jpg 
In my case you can have the L/H and R/H fairing panels and seat of in less than five minutes. I've yet to remove the tank but that's where the rest of the wiring resides on my model, two bolts on the rear of the tank under the seat, the only reason I haven't removed it yet is just because I don't feel like its something I want to fiddle with for no reason yet.
 
Accurate model specific wiring diagrams are near non existent I'm afraid.
 
So yeah, long and short: try the above if that doesn't work ask a dealer to take a look at it. Do wait for others comments though since they might know what checks to perform to narrow it down without needing to fork out for labour costs, of which that's all this job will be. | 
 No idea what thats a photo of, but it's not on straight
  ____________________
 YBR 125>FZS600
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		| NJD | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  NJD
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		| Sean.S | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Sean.S
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 Joined: 20 May 2015
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				|   Posted: 20:09 - 08 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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				| the electrics fail on every one of these chinq 125 sumo lookalikes at some point
 Must be the way The starter button and lights are wired but i remember that when i had one (it was less than a year old too) the starter button often didnt work but switching the lights on and off would make the engine start
 
 Chinese rubbish
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		| WD Forte | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  WD Forte
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		| andyscooter | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  andyscooter
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				|   Posted: 07:16 - 14 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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				| whys is this in show and tell ??    ____________________
 gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
 if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet
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		| WD Forte | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  WD Forte
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				|   Posted: 12:09 - 14 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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		| Sean.S | This post is not being displayed . | 
	
		|  Sean.S
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				|   Posted: 19:28 - 14 May 2016  Post subject: |    |  
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        |  | Old Thread Alert! 
 The last post was made 9 years, 171 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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