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drbaig
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: How bad is this ? Reply with quote

I think I've found the arcing issue on the bike.

Noticed it whilst changing oil.

So how fubar is this situation ?

https://imgur.com/a/1RTCB
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far does the crack go? I'd use some ''liquid metal'' compound to ''glue'' the crack and ride it. The other option would be a new crank case.

I wonder, what happened there. The alternator cover sure looks alright.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I crashed a few years ago and the gen cover was damaged but this crack was not there last time.

https://i.imgur.com/Y9PAtiR.jpg
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe there was a microscopic crack, that just spreaded over the time. I think, it's time for a new crank case. I'm no metallurgy expert, but I wouldn't ride that. Maybe some more experienced lads would have a better solution for you, but I find this beyond a reasonable repair.

Swapping the whole engine would be actually easier and quicker, than taking yours apart and swapping just the crank case.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

A dry alternator on that bike right? That's not an oiltight compartment the crack is above?

I would drill a small "stop hole" through the casing at the point of the crack to stop it spreading further, slap a blob of JB weld or that metal putty that looks like a liquorice allsort over it to stop water getting in and carry on riding.

If it's an oiltight compartment... Well, I'd probably do exactly the same but being more careful about the prep before applying the epoxy.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its dry. Thundercat.

Gonna use JB weld. Thanks
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

fix with plumbers tape and sell to bcf member
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

drbaig wrote:
Its dry. Thundercat.

Gonna use JB weld. Thanks


Make sure you drill a hole as described by stinkwheel or the crack will continue spreading.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
dry [...] JB weld or that metal putty that looks like a liquorice allsort over it to stop water getting in

Y U no just silicone sealant?
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I would drill a small "stop hole" through the casing at the point of the crack to stop it spreading further.


Very good advice, the reasoning behind this is to reduce the stress concentration created by the crack and prevent it propogating further. A circular hole reduces this as stresses like the natural sharp edges of the crack tip.

Jb weld has a much higher tensile strength than silicone and if the crack was to still try and spread this would make a better fail safe.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drilling a hole does stop the crack propagating BUT most cracks continue past what is visible - sometimes a long way past. If you don't find the end you're wasting your time.

Dye penetrant testing will show the whole extent of the crack.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will put a drill through it if I can. It is at such an awkward angle with the ac magneto in the way.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like it has been there for a long time. Personally I would do nothing at all with it unless it starts leaking oil, except perhaps use a sealer to keep the moisture out.
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Nash GT
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weld a sprocket on it Thumbs Up
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I replaced the gen cover two years ago it was not there. So I was surprised to see the crack. And I thought ah so you have been most probably the cause of arcing as there is signs of rust inside and I've changed the whole lot plugs cap leads coils and it's not stopped.

I've filled it with jb weld. I'm not sure if I can get a drill to put a hole at the end of the crack. Although I will try.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be hesitant to drill there, without taking it apart first. I'm a bit paranoid, when it comes to drilling into the crankcase/gearbox, though.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Re: How bad is this ? Reply with quote

drbaig wrote:
I think I've found the arcing issue on the bike.


That crack has nothing to do with your arcing issue. I missed that thread at the time - did you find a resolution?
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hole, gloop. Packed from both sides. Job done.

https://imgur.com/a/ExDja

BCF to the rescue as always.

Thanks guy.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd drain the oil, just in case. Don't start it yet. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
I'd drain the oil, just in case. Don't start it yet. Thumbs Up


No reason to do that. People worry too much about swarf in the oil when 1) the strainer will stop anything significant and 2) it's heavy enough to sink to the bottom of the sump right away anyway. Normal wear in the clutch basket will put far more suspended debris in the oil than drilling swarf.

More engines have been wrecked by liquid gasket that the owner has deliberately out there.
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drbaig
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It goes through and through. I could see through the hole. I packed it from the back side as well.

There is nothing for the swarf to go but fall out on the floor or out the back on top of the engine out of the back.

It is a dry alternator and the part where the crack is/was goes upward. There is nothing at the back. Well fuel and carb lines etc but the whole was not into the engine block. The top part sticks out separate if you get what I mean.

If you look at the engine. There is nothing behind the top of the gen cover where the crack is.

https://www.motor-bike-breakers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Yamaha-Thundercat-YZF600-1998-Rear-View-600cc-Engine-Motor-Cycle-Breaking.jpg


@Pete, Never did find a solution for it, changed everything (coils, plugs, leads, caps). I can't hear it any more. I started wearing earplugs. Though last week I touched the cam cover and could still feel faint shocks like static electricity.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 9 years, 242 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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