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Yamaha R3 Newbie!

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jawskk
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Yamaha R3 Newbie! Reply with quote

Good evening all,

Just thought I'd pop in to say hello! I am currently looking at the Yamaha R3 on an A2 licence. Can anyone confirm that this is the best bike to be looking at in terms of a starting bike for the A2 licence and would buying new be appropriate for a first time rider? Additionally, in terms of licences, what licences do I need to obtain before riding this type of bike? Am I correct in saying I need to obtain my CBT and A2?

Thanks!
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notbike
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy my ninja instead.

R3 is good but is skinny at the tank and too upright.

If you haven't rode any other motorcycle for a decent amount of time, don't buy new cause you run the risk of dropping the new bike which sucks. Then again I only owned my R125 for 6 months before buying a new Ninja and I've never dropped it (or the R125.. or any bike).

You need to do A2 to ride R3.

Edit: Get R3 and drag race me so we can compare them pls I wanna know how fast an R3 goes.
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

seems mixed reviews! Ninja took my fancy but they don't seem to be as quick, neither do I think they look as good? Does that FZS600 fit in with the 33kw?
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not sure whether to finance a better bike however rather than getting an older bike? introduction of Abs to modern bikes seems appealing! how about the z300 performance? works out the same as the R3?
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NJD
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dream land is all very well and good. So do you have your CBT / A2 course already booked?
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Dream land is all very well and good. So do you have your CBT / A2 course already booked?


I wouldn't say its dream land, just precautions before spending a fair few pennies! Cbt booked for 2 weeks time, A2 to follow. Will be done by the end of the month! I am aware that a 3 week waiting time for a new R3 is possible at the moment, plus I intend to wait for the new 66 plate to start in September if I buy new, so no rush at the moment.
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mkjackary
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a CBT Theory and A2.

There is no 'best bike'. As for the R3, sure it is cool, but it is 30KW, you can get another 5KW on an A2, or double it if you are going to *restrict* it.

If it is your very first bike don't buy new. Depending on how you feel after the course get a older model of a bike you like, or if you aren't very comfortable, go for a 10-20 year old naked 500cc bike to start off with (very common and cheap) then once you are comfortable get a fazer or r3 or similar.

This is a good site. https://a2bikes.co.uk/

I would prefer something bigger than 320cc but that is just personal preference.

Also I am amazed that the R3 - a purpose built A2 bike? - isn't the full 35KW, surely they would want to be the fastest bike in that class like the r125, why go for something lacking in BHP?
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do I not need the full cbt? or just theory? This is where my knowledge on Licence's lack. I have booked the full cbt as I was aware I need to do the full CBT and A2 licence? I don't really understand this Mod1, Mod2 chat either and the .gov website is not that helpful! I should know licences, I am a car salesman by trade. but cars work completely different as we all know! one licence and that's it!
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are our thoughts on restricting then?
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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jawskk wrote:
I am a car salesman by trade


Explains the cockiness, already.

jawskk wrote:
our thoughts


Easy, you've only just put your foot through the door.

jawskk wrote:
Will be done by the end of the month!


I wouldn't count on it. CBT's easy peasy and worst that can happen is to be invited back, maybe at some extra cost, for another bite on the road but either way there is no pass or fail. Unless you've got your A2 booked already through a school I doubt you'll get anything near that soon since peak season and first come first serve, much demand. Don't go booking both modules in one go either, much baw and expense if you cock up the Module 1 and forefit the fee for Module 2.

jawskk wrote:
I am aware that a 3 week waiting time for a new R3 is possible at the moment, plus I intend to wait for the new 66 plate to start in September if I buy new, so no rush at the moment.


19-24, dripping wet license, I assume you've ran an insurance quote to verify dream land is possible, right?
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="NJD"]
jawskk wrote:
I am a car salesman by trade


It explains nothing my friend. Common misconception!

I appreciate your help but no need to go on the attack. I have checked that on compare the market, an R3 comes out at £61.50 a month. This is what I anticipated. I have a pcp on a 2016 R3. 4893OTR, £500 Deposit at 6.4%APR coming out at £79.86 for 6000miles, £2296GFV. So for a brand new bike fully insured I am looking at around the £150pcm mark. Does this explain it and why I am interested in a Brand new, ABS, R3? (over 36mths)

In terms of CBT, I will take go back and forth til I pass it. I am interested in doing my CBT with the test centre bikes and doing my a2 with my own to get practice. thoughts?
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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spells a financial mess because racebike already. Not the path I'd take but it's your money.

£61.50 (one monthly instalment) x 12 = £958.32. Fek that, simple as. I'd rather buy something cheaper in all areas and bite the bullet to enjoy racebike at a latter date. No figure that high tempting me towards two wheels. What level of cover is that and what's the excess?

Two years of being on an A2 license you can upgrade to A. I sense you'll be bored of a 300cc racebike long before that but wont be able to do anything about it because finance. I'd think long and hard before signing on any dotted line.

150pcm is (I can't be arsed to see if calculations are correct) what you'll be legally obliged to pay as agreed to via your consent to finance companies. Factor in servicing, fuel, consumables, security, cover, gear, tax etc and I'm sure your funds will be tested far beyond a £500 deposit just to get started and during your ownership. As I mentioned in a recent thread buying a bike doesn't mean you can afford it, I assume you've ensured you could afford things that might need replacing in your ownership like chain + sprockets, tyres etc?
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jawskk
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fully Comp and excess of £250.

This is why I was asking about the r3? maybe a Kawasaki er6n restricted would be more appropriate then? Unrestrict after 2 years.

The joys of buying new, and one major factor on why I am looking at buying new is because I know that the Yamaha will come with a 3 year manufacturing warranty that covers anything apart from wear and tear or personal damage, in which insurance can cover after excess if major. That means for the entire 36 month plan on which ever bike I purchase, I will have full cover for anything like chains/sprockets etc.

Joys of a pcp and why I chose it as well, is it gets the ball rolling, I can trade in after 24 months, if I don't exceed my mileage allowance and build up neg and get a new bike. covered with warranty and so on. What I don't want to get caught up in his riding around on unsafe second-hand bangers that I run into the ground and pay bills for repairs here there and everywhere? I understand where you are coming from and I appreciate your advice however! This is why I joined this forum, to see what others think? If you can convince me why I am wrong, by all means I will go with your idea and owe you a pint.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jawskk wrote:
Fully Comp and excess of £250.


That's the compulsory excess right?, providing you've left the voluntary at 0. You'd be forced, I imagine, into fully comp with financing a bike anyway.. or so I've heard the paperwork requires fully comp so read the T&C's.

jawskk wrote:
This is why I was asking about the r3? maybe a Kawasaki er6n restricted would be more appropriate then? Unrestrict after 2 years.


You're talking bikes way to early. Sure, draw up a short list of what you'd like to ride but what funds do you exactly have to play with? You've got your CBT booked so that's out the way but what have you budgeted for you A2 course thus far and what do you actually have to spend on a bike? I sense that you're going to get finance on whatever you get because you're minds made up.

I'd get the A2 out the way first and then think more about what funds you've got to play with because the courses are not exactly cheap. On that grounds, and you don't have to answer this of course, is that if you're 19-21 I'd say go for the A2 but if you're 22 or 23 I'd say tough it out on a tiddler for two years let your CBT expire, do another one and then just go straight for A. Seems pointless funding an A2 course if you've only got two years until you could do A, just advice of course.

jawskk wrote:
The joys of buying new, and one major factor on why I am looking at buying new is because I know that the Yamaha will come with a 3 year manufacturing warranty that covers anything apart from wear and tear or personal damage, in which insurance can cover after excess if major. That means for the entire 36 month plan on which ever bike I purchase, I will have full cover for anything like chains/sprockets etc.


Lets just clarify that dealers have no interest in you but rather your money and a main Yamaha dealer even more so, there's stealers and then there's the even worse main stealers. I wouldn't go near the latter.

I'd also put money on them trying to wriggle out of any repairs at their expense possible. Again, they're not your friend. <someone insert a link to the thread by Albirgus (username spelt wrong, sorry) in regards to the problems he had with his bike and how main stealer said no to part replacement (IIRC) to make OP realise what bad mistake thinking warrenty is worth anything before its too late.>

You wont be covered for chains and sprockets as they're a consumable, wear and tear. Lets just list the things out my Lexmoto manual so that you're clear on things that aren't covered and probably apply across the board:

"Any parts/components that are subject to everyday wear and tear which include but are not limited to the followings:"

Tyres
Tubes
Spark plugs
Filters
Cables
Lights
Bulbs
Mirrors
Batterys
Chains and sprockets
Belts
Bearings
Fairings
Air cleaner elements
Brake pads and shoes
Clutch discs and clutch plates
Levers
Fuses
Motor brushes
Rubber parts

.. So TDLR: You're entire bike.

I'd also like to make you aware that you'll have to pay main dealer service prices to maintain that warrenty that most defiantly wont come cheap.
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rhys99
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

No ones asked the guys age? he could be eligible for DAS.
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DRZ4Hunned
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do what Socket says.

I'd much rather have an old Fazer for 1.5k than a new 300 commuter for nearly 5k.

You seem to have sold yourself to your own finance salesman shpiel, I still think finance is mostly a mugs game.

Bikes aren't like cars, it's a lot more obvious when they're knackered as long as you have a pinch of mechanical ability.
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Alpineandy
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PostPosted: 03:38 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly, Bikes aren't for everyone. Do your CBT and then decide what next. Many do their CBT and think 'fuck that, it's scary'.

If you enjoy your CBT (as much as anyone can on those tiny bikes (IMO) then ask the instructors about what you have to do next for your A2 (or DAS if you can).

Your A2 will probably be on a 650 and you'll probably realise that you don't want to go down to a 300 when you pass.

Finally, you asked for our thoughts and it's pretty universally thought that you shouldn't buy a new bike but you seem to know better.
You stand a very high chance of dropping your first bike. Not necessarily crashing it, but moving around in a garage/driveway/carpark. It's very easy on a gravel carpark for your foot to slip away from you and the bike is suddenly on it's side. It doesn't mean you'll do major damage but you will get scratches and knocks moving it around. That effects it's value which is never a good thing when finance is involved.
The other thing is that although you may like the style of a sportsbike, you may find that it doesn't suit the tasks that you need to do. You won't understand what's really important in a bike until you've had one a while.
You will (pretty much certainly) want to change your big bike in a year or so (really most do) so give the financing a miss for the first year and then consider it for your real (non-learner) bike.
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cjttchris
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PostPosted: 07:57 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the beginning of the year when I was thinking whether to get an R3 or Ninja 300 I thought that the Ninja looked far better and from all the reviews had more power and better handling.

In the end went for a Bandit 600 (2000) and I'm far happier now than I would have been with a 300. But if you're not into to restricting a bike I would vote the Ninja, the R3 reminds me of the R125 too much, and that for me is just too popular now...

*edit
Do what NJD has said. You need to factor in your gear, servicing and general maintainance and of course the A2 test if thats what you are willing to do. For me I hired one of their bikes as I wanted to make a decision based on whether I liked the larger bikes (I used the Yamaha XJ6) and funnily enough I did. You will need at least three 2 hour lessons which can cost a fair bit as well as the MOD 1 and 2 which also add up. All in all I spent around £500 for the whole lot and all of my kit came to just under £200.

There is no point in skimping on your both the test/lessons and your gear. As NJD has already said, for a new bike you will need to place a hefty deposit as well so make sure you have factored all of that in as well.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can we confirm that you're aged between 19 and 23. If you're 24 or above, you'll want to be doing full A tests.

Alpineandy wrote:
[Very wise words]

Particularly about the likelihood of doing your training and tests on a restricted 600+ bike. You may find that a 300 doesn't smoke your sausage after that. I certainly wouldn't buy one without riding it.

You'll want to get your motorcycle theory test booked ASAP. It's essentially the same as the car theory test with a handful of bike specific questions (which you don't even have to get right). Waste of time, but it's a necessary hoop to jump through.

PCP does give the option of getting rid of the bike without the hassle of selling it privately. Do bear in mind that it's got to go back pristine so if you drop it (which is fairly likely) then at best you'll be eating the excess on the insurance.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Re: Yamaha R3 Newbie! Reply with quote

jawskk wrote:
Additionally PRIMARILY!, in terms of licences, what licences do I need to obtain before riding this ANY type of bike? Am I correct in saying I need to obtain my CBT and A2?


Carts and horses mate, carts and horses.

If 17-19 only bike licence catagory you are eligible for is a 125 only 'A1' entitlement

If 19-24, you are eligible to test for an A2, 45bhp 'restrcted' A2 entitlement.

If over 24, you are eligible to test for a 'ride what you like' full 'A' entitlement.

Tests are the same regardless of catagory; you need to have validated provisional licence entitlement by completing a CBT course; you need to have passed the Theory/Hazard test for a motorcycle, and then you may take the two practical tests, Mod 1, cone exercises, and Mod 2 round the houses.

For all licence entitlements test req's stipulate the machine you need to turn up with to do the practical tests on.

For an A1 licence, thats a 125cc machine, which you may ride unsupervised on the roads before passing tests, after completing a CBT course.

For A2 and A requirements beg a 'big-bike' of suitable weight and power output which you cannot legally ride on the roads unsupervised before you have passed the tests, which usually begs using a school to train you and supervise you, usually on one of their bikes, to and from tests. (R3 I believe is not actually A2 test eligible, just A2 licence complient, FWIW)

Or in short... putting the cart before the horse, stick your window shopping for bikes on hold, and pop "Motorcycle Training in [my-town]" in the search box... and go talk to a school.....

'cos whatever you want to ride, first you need a licence, and before that you need to go to school, one way or another, if even just to get a CBT cert to ride a 125.

After THAT, and the little learning you are like to get from it, you may or may not have more questions, but likely a lot of em'll have already been answered.

So back up and start at the beginning. Right here right now, bike no matter, 'cos you cant ride anything on the road.

And if there is anything worth your attentions right now, it would be finding and doing some motorcycle 'mock' Theory/Hazard tests, and possibly booking a real one.... if you wish to go beyond CBT and take test for a licence, its the next thing on the list, and likely stalling point if you start training before you have the pass cert in your pocket.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't buy an FZS, you'll end up with a $hit old heavy bike restricted to 47bhp. There are cheap Ninja 250's about (f**ked fazer money or less (so <£1500)). The 300's are still too new to be a good buy, and in case you're wondering new bikes especially on finance are never a good buy Smile
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 05 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not an MT-03? It's one of the few A2 native bikes.

If OP wants racebike, then an ER6F or SV650S might restrict better than a Fazer, but either way I doubt that many people fresh off a restricted 650 would really want a Ninja 250 as an only bike. They're a sod to sell on as well now, the one I bought was up on Gumtree for 6 weeks before I finally went for it. If you do go for a small capacity bike as a private purchase, chisel every penny and consider it to be more or less disposable.

CBR500R prices are coming down, there are 2014 bikes getting ~£2000 closing bids on eBay.
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