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Electrical problems

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Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Electrical problems Reply with quote

Hello,

Last night coming out of work I went to my 2010 GTR and went to start it as normal. Turned the ignition to 'On', the dials did their thing, thumbed the starter and the bike seemed to crank for a fraction of a second and then died. Completely dead, dials dead, no flashing light on dash etc. Pushing the black ignition dial did nothing at all, thought it was just a dead battery. Called RAC, waited for 1.5 hours and sods law the bike behaved perfectly normally, started fine etc but the clocks had reset - the time back to 1:00 etc.

The RAC bloke tested the voltages and said the battery seemed OK, rode home without a hitch.

Tried bike this morning, not a problem. Got my multimeter out and tested the battery, here's the voltages

Bike off : 12.74v
At idle : 14.05v
At 4k : 14.32v

I was hoping it was a duff battery as this would be an easy fix. Just to add, about a week or two ago I left the bike over night and the clocks had reset but the bike seemed to start fine although it did need cranking for a second or two when it normally starts on the button.

Any thoughts?

Cheers.
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arry
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PostPosted: 07:47 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terminals and earth straps in good nick?
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Terminals and earth straps in good nick?


Yeah, all good by the looks of things.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the RAC tech 'Load test' the battery?

That is the only positive (no pun) method of determining battery health.

A battery on it's way out can take an store a full charge but lose everything when hammered with sufficient load. Several amps.

The load tester will simulate starter load which is the heaviest load a battery will have handle.

An 'voltage test' only tells half the story.

Before the days of the side stand/geargox interlock it was possible to load test using the bike's starter a and a volt meter.
The starter engaged against top gear with the back brake held.

The only way to test in that case is using a portable load tester.

Sophisticated specialist tool maybe not needed everyday Very Happy
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What`s the voltage reading when cranking using the black -- probe on the frame?
Also what`s the voltage reading at the fuse box when switched on and be VERY carefull.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anything drawing current when switched 'off' like alarms, tracker, aftermarket usb?
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

RAC man didn't do a load test, I did mention it but he said he tested the voltage when he cranked it and he said it dropped to about 10v.

I put the battery on my optimate, it didn't do any charging, just testing then maintenance.
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Anything drawing current when switched 'off' like alarms, tracker, aftermarket usb?


Nothing.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Main Power Relay?

Or simply dirty/bad/loose connection somewhere on the big circuit.

Check Frame to Bat Neg.
Bat Pos to Main relay.#
Main relay to Breaker/Fuse/Control Mod. If possible.
Ignition switch to Main relay.
Main relay to frame.

Perhaps there is a diagnostic check on a dealer computer thingy too.

Intermittent faults are a bastert. Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 12 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just pulled out the battery, checked the main fuse for corrosion, a tiny smidgen, cleaned it up as I did with the battery terminals and earths. Put it all back and am hoping for the best Confused
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