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Lithium prescription, am I a mentalist?

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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 12 Oct 2016    Post subject: Lithium prescription, am I a mentalist? Reply with quote

After not riding the CBR for 5 days, it decided to let me down on Tuesday morrow morn. After slow cranking for 5 seconds the battery decided it was a little bit cold and too early to put a shift in, wrapped itself up in its duvet and told me to cease and desist making any further efforts.

A quick jump from a booster battery meant it only had to be told once, and a away we go. It decided it best not anger me and kindly started for the return journey that very same evening.

I've been monitoring the voltage since, and it's around 12.4v to 12.6v.
Time for a new battery methinks, I know the Yuasa lead acid unit has been in situ for 2 years minimum, and the reg rec is newish and tested Ok.

So what's the point of this waffle? Well since Li-ion has almost become de riguer in total loss race bikes, and the price is now less eyewatering, I'm pondering if these 2 options are viable for a daily commuter:

JMT
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR-600-F-1987-2000-Superlight-LITHIUM-Li-Ion-Battery-save-2kg-/272175866807

Shido
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIDO-LITHIUM-ION-LIGHTWEIGHT-MOTORCYCLE-BATTERY-HONDA-CBR600F-1987-2000-/152122304593?nav=SEARCH

I'm edging towards the JMT due to balanced charging and on board management. Anyone used either, good or bad input taken on board?
Both offer 2 full kg lighter, adding extra lightness to an already lightweight (~200kg wet) bike.

In b4 buy what you want, you'll die in exploshun, shave 3/10ths off your commute.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 12 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much same price as the Motobatts. I've used a motobatt in every one of my CBR600s and they've outlasted the bike.

OTOH this could just mean that motobatts cause bike destruction!

There is a massive thread here:

https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/motorcycle-batteries-agm-gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934/
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 12 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, there is no way I'd be putting a lithium battery directly under my arse.

When reg-recs fail they go one of two ways. They either stop rectifying (no charge) or they stop regulating (overcharge).

Once had a charging system failure that overcharged a sealed lead acid bettary. It had bulged to the extent I had to cut down the side of the battery box to remove it then (wearing gloves and goggles) carry it to the end of the garden and administer a coup de grace on it from beyond minimum safe distance with my airgun.

Overcharge a lithium battery...? I'm happy with my arsehole the size it is thanks.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 12 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:
Pretty much same price as the Motobatts. I've used a motobatt in every one of my CBR600s and they've outlasted the bike.

OTOH this could just mean that motobatts cause bike destruction!

There is a massive thread here:

https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/motorcycle-batteries-agm-gel-wet-lithium-iron-phosphate-lifepo4.757934/


100+ pages, I spotted it earlier. Can you de-teff it for me please? Laughing
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 05:29 - 13 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lithiums are fine for a garage queen but not so great for an all year rounder, they don't do well with cold starts.
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nitrosurf
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PostPosted: 05:41 - 13 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing a fair bit of searching around my next battery for the Duc is going to be one of the Motobatt lead acid jobbies. The prices are very fair and judging from the raves on here their claims seem honest. Unless you're looking for ultimate weight saving (RaCeBiKe) I personally don't see the point of an over sized laptop battery.

And as Stinkwheel said, should it overcharge there's a chance it'll bonfire your bike!

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G
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 13 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would hope they come with a BMS that prevents such issues. I've got a JMT in my track 675 and doing fine so far. If I total-loss it, will probably just stick in a RC battery.

On track losing a few pounds here and there can start to add up, especially on already quite light bike like the 675. Not sure I'd bother on others.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 13 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive got a lithium battery in my vtr1000, its about the only thing that will start the bike if it doesnt catch on the first push of the button,
the other batteries ive had in it just dont have the cranking amps, to turn it over for more than a couple of seconds.

and there is no bump starting that tank, also the vtr sits for long periods with out being started, so a lithium battery is perfect for that bike,

i use motobatts in all my other bikes
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G
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 13 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:

and there is no bump starting that tank,

It is possible, even with a really dead battery.

Did take 8 people and a LOT of running however!
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

After much reading, I've decided in the pioneering spirit upon this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Upgrade-to-LITHIUM-battery-Honda-CBR-600-F-2011-YTZ10S-/272351858260

Yes, it's rated at 48Wh, the recommended one for a '99 CBR600 is 36Wh.
After researching it's best to go for the highest capacity you can physically afford / fit. I'll update this thread over winter to indicate how the cold starts are going.

This is an Li-Iron Phosphate unit, much more resistant to fire and death than the other Lithium chemistry type batteries. BMS is not deemed necessary, well we'll soon find out.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Personally, there is no way I'd be putting a lithium battery directly under my arse.

When reg-recs fail they go one of two ways. They either stop rectifying (no charge) or they stop regulating (overcharge).

Once had a charging system failure that overcharged a sealed lead acid bettary. It had bulged to the extent I had to cut down the side of the battery box to remove it then (wearing gloves and goggles) carry it to the end of the garden and administer a coup de grace on it from beyond minimum safe distance with my airgun.

Overcharge a lithium battery...? I'm happy with my arsehole the size it is thanks.


Not all Lithium batteries are created equal.

https://www.shido-batteries.com/html/technical-specifications/index.html

Personally I have a Shido in the R1, it works well. Good cranking, fits in the OE battery box no problems at all. I've also put a shido in the GSR before I sold it. Again, good cranking, no problems.

I'll happily put one in the Fireblade when it's lead acid dies. I know someone that has a Shido in his 2008 Fireblade with no problems at all.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 07:20 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
After much reading, I've decided in the pioneering spirit upon this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Upgrade-to-LITHIUM-battery-Honda-CBR-600-F-2011-YTZ10S-/272351858260

Yes, it's rated at 48Wh, the recommended one for a '99 CBR600 is 36Wh.
After researching it's best to go for the highest capacity you can physically afford / fit. I'll update this thread over winter to indicate how the cold starts are going.

This is an Li-Iron Phosphate unit, much more resistant to fire and death than the other Lithium chemistry type batteries. BMS is not deemed necessary, well we'll soon find out.


Entirely your choice which battery you fit. My personal opinion would be get a replacement that is correct for your make/model/year. At least if you do get any problems there's no reason for them not to sort it for you. Also remember you might need a lithium specific charger.

Generally when going lithium you'll get higher CCA over lead acid for the equivalent battery. A CBR600F from 1999 isn't particularly hard on it's starting system anyway.
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G
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue with chargers is that some lead acid ones may spike high voltages for maintenance reasons.

Cheaper 'basic' chargers should be fine.

You can buy a decent hobby charger that will do lithium, lead acid and others for under £20 (or £10 if you're powering it from 12v).

LiFePo4 is generally 'safer'. It typically can handle a lot more more cycles (fully charged to empty) than LiPo/Li-ion, but for the same weight generally won't have as high 'cranking' amps.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 07:48 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
The issue with chargers is that some lead acid ones may spike high voltages for maintenance reasons.

Cheaper 'basic' chargers should be fine.

You can buy a decent hobby charger that will do lithium, lead acid and others for under £20 (or £10 if you're powering it from 12v).

LiFePo4 is generally 'safer'. It typically can handle a lot more more cycles (fully charged to empty) than LiPo/Li-ion, but for the same weight generally won't have as high 'cranking' amps.


IME people that have issues tend to use the cheaper basic chargers. Get the battery on a decent lithium one and it's fine. I think Demon Tweeks do a reasonable one for £60 odd.
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G
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PostPosted: 08:39 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless the charger is faulty and would also damage a lead acid battery, it shouldn't be able to damage a lithium battery.

Lithium batteries can generally be safely charged at a much higher C rating.
LiPo and Li-ion batteries aren't fully charged at the cut off voltage for lead acid, so even a bit of over-charge they can handle ok.

£60 is way over the odds for a lithium charger.
https://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html
You can get copies that also should be 'good enough' for £22.
About half that if you've got a 12v supply to use (for instance a car battery with a lead acid charger).

Any examples of someone damaging a battery with a basic charger that isn't broken?

(Unless we're talking so basic it's constant current not voltage - but you only really get those for trucks or they are really, really old.)
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wafer_Thin_Ham wrote:

Not all Lithium batteries are created equal.

https://www.shido-batteries.com/html/technical-specifications/index.html

Personally I have a Shido in the R1, it works well.


Yes, I saw that too thanks, it's good to get the real world feedback, how long have you had it installed and is it used daily without external recharging?

I strongly suspect Shido & JMT are sharing the same line, the mouldings are identical apart from the colour, so are the weights & capacities and the digital gauge on the top is also the same.

The battery being specced up to a higher capacity should if anything, increase reliability/lifespan and reduce any chance of failure. Same terminals, dimensions (W x L) are the same, I've just paid a little extra for a 33% capacity overhead.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what would happen if I put 17v into one?
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
So what would happen if I put 17v into one?


It would burn your bike to the ground, maybe with you on it.

Anyone who uses a Li battery on a bike with a charging system is an idiot.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above. Stupidity. Lead acid, cheap, available, rugged, more than enough precious amps to do the job.
For God's sake, Lipo has just wiped out Samsung!
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
As above. Stupidity. Lead acid, cheap, available, rugged, more than enough precious amps to do the job.
For God's sake, Lipo has just wiped out Samsung!


Been running one on the TL without fault. Starting a Big high compression V-twin kills batteries, including the fabled motobatt.

This has been faultless. I have installed a voltmeter so I can see if there are any charging faults on the move.
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G
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
So what would happen if I put 17v into one?

Depends if it's got a BMS.

If it does, nothing.

Even if it doesn't, probably not much.
Most Lipos have a maximum voltage of 4.2v per cell and these will be 4s.
So you're only 0.05v per cell over the maximum.

Some people intentionally charge to 4.25v per cell - you get a little more capacity, but also shorten life.
There's some lipos listed at 4.3v per cell - just to get that bit more capacity again.

Ferraris use petrol engines and catch on fire - best not use them!
Cost of the JMT etc is similar to a more expensive lead acid battery.

a friend described how they had to wear full protective gear when checking batteries in the fire service - often people didn't bother. Until, luckily when no one was around, they had a battery explode. Battery acid ALL over the cab, including over the ceiling etc.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
So what would happen if I put 17v into one?


Probably reduce the life, but it's not likely to go the same way as a Li-ion battery.

Lithium-iron phosphate is resistant to thermal runaway that Samsung and other phones / laptop batteries are not (lithium-ion).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery

I don't see people too bothered about putting a phone next to their face, or having a laptop battery millimeters from their cock and balls Laughing Shocked
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G
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 15 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:

I don't see people too bothered about putting a phone next to their face,

Unless it's the new Note, anyway!

LiFePo4 cells can be made to blow up too - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpMRYJdzbnI . However in this example it's pretty serious - you'll have problems with most batteries if you charge them to over 3x the voltage.

Note however that the one in the video above seems to be sealed in a metal case. From my own experience, it seems that makes it a lot worse - you've basically got a pipe bomb allowing pressure to build in a sealed container.
While the normal LiPo pouch types don't tend to have nearly the pressure build up of the metal canisters (which are normally used for Li-Ion).
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 06:39 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Unless the charger is faulty and would also damage a lead acid battery, it shouldn't be able to damage a lithium battery.

Lithium batteries can generally be safely charged at a much higher C rating.
LiPo and Li-ion batteries aren't fully charged at the cut off voltage for lead acid, so even a bit of over-charge they can handle ok.

£60 is way over the odds for a lithium charger.
https://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html
You can get copies that also should be 'good enough' for £22.
About half that if you've got a 12v supply to use (for instance a car battery with a lead acid charger).

Any examples of someone damaging a battery with a basic charger that isn't broken?

(Unless we're talking so basic it's constant current not voltage - but you only really get those for trucks or they are really, really old.)


They get issues more along the lines of "it's flat and won't hold charge" with the cheaper chargers. Plug them into a decent one and they're fine. Just my experience of them. I'm not arguing where or not a cheap charger "should" be ok. Just what I've noticed....
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 06:42 - 16 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:


Yes, I saw that too thanks, it's good to get the real world feedback, how long have you had it installed and is it used daily without external recharging?



Had it in for 8 or 9 months. Been on a charger once, not needed a boost for ages. Used the bike sometimes on consecutive days, sometimes a week or so between uses. No issues at all. It's a like for like replacement for the YTZ10S that was in it.
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