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Sound proofing for a workshop

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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Sound proofing for a workshop Reply with quote

Right. I'm going to be putting together a workshop in the house that I'm buying. It's a terraced townhouse, and the tooling will be going in a concrete-floored garage. Two of the tools in question are of the big, heavy and noisy variety - a lathe and a mill, specifically. While I'm fairly confident that the neighbour on one side won't be overly bothered by any noise made here, I have no idea about the other side, so in order to forestall any difficulty, I'd like to isolate as much of the noise generated as is humanly possible, preferably for a sensible price.

Does anyone here have any practical experience of doing this, and if so, what did you do? I'm reticent to try and build a raised platform, given that the combined weight of the machines will be somewhere in the region of 1000kg. I'm also quite leery of placing the lathe on a rubber mat, given that I want to be able to consistently eliminate any twist in the lathe bed.

Building thin stud walling with soundproofing layers around the workshop area is a possibility, although I'd really like to not have to go to the hassle/cost of doing that if I can avoid it.

The sound levels generated by these machines is somewhere in the 85-88dB region, according to other people's sound readings.

Inb4 some prat suggests eggboxes. That's sound absorption, not sound proofing.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

85db doesn't seem unreasonable for a couple of hours per day.

It's in the region of most acoustic instruments, and nobody really sound proofs to play them, admittedly the type of noise is different.

But I'd see if you get any complaints first.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main issue is that it'll be a persistent tone, at a fairly fixed pitch range. Musical instruments at least have tonal variety.

I may also find myself working at times that others would consider antisocial.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the sound may be transmitted through the floor the machines are fixed to but be projected from the nearest resonator. i.e. the neighbour's wall...
Be careful what you SIT the machines on. You should try to sit them on isolatio feet/mounts. Theu can get stupidly expensive though.
To cut out noise you either absorb it or reflect it to a place not noticed. It doesn't travel through air as well as It does though a solid (or a liquid).
Foam rubber will deaden air bound sound wave effectively. Or a panel mounted in a resilient mount. It is aa.atter oof.absornimg.r dissipating energy.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy has a persistent tone, at a fairly fixed pitch range.... no ones killed him yet. You should be fine Laughing
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Alpineandy
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

These guys have lots of sound/heat insulation/absorption stuff;
https://www.agriemach.com/
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What size is your lathe? I have four rubber isolator feet that might do to mount it on and reduce transmitted noise.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
What size is your lathe? I have four rubber isolator feet that might do to mount it on and reduce transmitted noise.

It's likely to be a Warco gh1236, so a 12"*36".[/list]
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice gear head machine but if you already budgeted for it check the price as they have gone up recently.
The gear head will be noisier than a belt drive machine, only mention it because of the thread topic.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My wm240 is not too noisy, less than washing machine for most stuff. Some tasks make a lot of high pitch noise which you'd expect as its only small, that will resonate through the sheet metal covers. Parting off/fly cutting or near its limit. Rubber sheet where the covers attach helps.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know a gear head is a bit louder, but the increased weight and torque over the 290v makes it worthwhile, IMO. Provided I can dampen the worst of it, I don't mind some noise. I'm not expecting anything to be whisper quiet, I just don't want neighbour complaints, is all.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll certainly do anything you want it to do. Check your PM's.
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331X2
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If twisting is a worry on the manufacturers stand, could you build a frame/cast a concrete slab and mount that on rubber feet?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee Wright wrote:
If twisting is a worry on the manufacturers stand, could you build a frame/cast a concrete slab and mount that on rubber feet?
Serious twisting isn't a likely issue, I'm more worried about the fact that the concrete floor isn't perfectly flat, and having to make endless tiny adjustments to get it running 'just so'. Decent feet should solve the worst of that, but I'm a fatalist at heart.
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331X2
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 29 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Four independent rubber feet would probably be the best bet then, the ones under my Harrison M450 are adjustable although the thread pitch is quite coarse so there was a lot of the endless tiny adjustments you mention, my shed floor is spectacularly pissed though Laughing
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Rncv
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of our machines have Tico padding under the feet, that would be the best idea for it.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are my only valid input to this thread:

1. You're moving?? Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked I missed that memo, but ... nice one Mr. Green Thumbs Up Where going?

2. "leery" / "lairy" ... are they the same. Google says not. Are they, in fact, interchangeable?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
Here are my only valid input to this thread:

1. You're moving?? Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked I missed that memo, but ... nice one Mr. Green Thumbs Up Where going?

2. "leery" / "lairy" ... are they the same. Google says not. Are they, in fact, interchangeable?

Sorry, yes. Moving to Brum. Still keeping the flat and the job in London though, so not disappearing entirely.
Leery - not entirely comfortable with, Lairy - loud/brash/a bit vulgar.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Y'up me old space cadet.
Brum eh? Hows about next April you me and maybe some North/Midland twarts meeting up for the Red Marley Freak Hillclimb?

Say you've got the machine isolated from the ground (BTW they do self levelling floor compounds) you'll still need some kind of absorption in the walls and ceiling.

Timber battens....Rockwool slabs as thick as practical(Not foil backed type, the dense fibreglass ones) and then double thickness plasterboard stuck together with Green Glue...the aim being to have little air gaps between each layer of material.

The other obvious thing is talk to whom it may concern. First thing I said to Al Qaeda when they moved in nextdoor was Hi, I make music and own motorbikes and if ever I'm being too noisy please tell me.

So far so good, but mainly because I choose my moments to either ROCK OUT! or WARM UP my DUCATI before changing the oil.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a bag of cement. Level the lathe on thin wedges, mix up the cement with water to the consistancy of custard and pour it around the base, make dams of timber if you like. Let it set and the lathe will be sitting snugly on the floor nice and level.

Make a sensitive level one of your first projects:

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=1076328#post1076328
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GhostRider
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Y'up me old space cadet.
Brum eh? Hows about next April you me and maybe some North/Midland twarts meeting up for the Red Marley Freak Hillclimb?


I'm up for that Thumbs Up

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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
Y'up me old space cadet.
Brum eh? Hows about next April you me and maybe some North/Midland twarts meeting up for the Red Marley Freak Hillclimb?
That sounds hilarious and reckless in equal measure, so count me in.

Howling Terror wrote:
Say you've got the machine isolated from the ground (BTW they do self levelling floor compounds) you'll still need some kind of absorption in the walls and ceiling.

Timber battens....Rockwool slabs as thick as practical(Not foil backed type, the dense fibreglass ones) and then double thickness plasterboard stuck together with Green Glue...the aim being to have little air gaps between each layer of material.
This is something that I've already pretty much considered and nailed down as the way to go - the added bonus being that it'll make the garage that much warmer to work in. As I say, I am pretty confident that the neighbour on one side will be fine with it (he's a BCFer who wants things machined, serendipitously enough) - the other side is offset by a stairwell, so I'm hoping that the walls won't transmit as much, and solving the floor would be the ideal.

Howling Terror wrote:
The other obvious thing is talk to whom it may concern. First thing I said to Al Qaeda when they moved in nextdoor was Hi, I make music and own motorbikes and if ever I'm being too noisy please tell me.

So far so good, but mainly because I choose my moments to either ROCK OUT! or WARM UP my DUCATI before changing the oil.
Yeah, I was going to have a word with them regardless, because I don't want to be that wanker who just rocks up and starts making big noise at tosser o'clock in the morning. At least, not without fair warning first, anyway...

Pete. wrote:

Buy a bag of cement. Level the lathe on thin wedges, mix up the cement with water to the consistancy of custard and pour it around the base, make dams of timber if you like. Let it set and the lathe will be sitting snugly on the floor nice and level.

Make a sensitive level one of your first projects:

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=1076328#post1076328

Nice project - definitely going to do one of those. The concrete base sounds like a good idea. I presume that metal wedges would be the best bet, yes? Last thing I want is for wooden wedges to expand/contract in the middle of set concrete.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Metal, wood, plastic. They are only needed for an hour whilst the grout sets.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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