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Varying voltage/current through heater pads

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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Varying voltage/current through heater pads Reply with quote

Whuddup BCF. Yes this is bike related because I have some heater pads that I could put on my handle bars.

They are cheapies from China which have a direct connector to my battery (via my ignition switched relay).

They just have an on/off switch now but I'm wondering how I could modulate their "power" - I'm not too sure of the correct terminology, I haven't studied electronics for 10 years.

I wondered whether I should just use a potentiometer, changing that should change the current across the heaters (?); but I'm unsure if this would be the right method. The quoted power for these are 10W.

Does anybody have any tips of what I could wire in to give me this variation? I will be hoping to make it waterproof - bike use.

TIA.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Re: Varying voltage/current through heater pads Reply with quote

DrSnoosnoo wrote:


I wondered whether I should just use a potentiometer, changing that should change the current across the heaters (?); but I'm unsure if this would be the right method. The quoted power for these are 10W.


A rheostat would probably be the better option, place it in the wiring between the battery and where(if?) the wires split to go to separate pads.
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Re: Varying voltage/current through heater pads Reply with quote

tom_e wrote:
A rheostat would probably be the better option, place it in the wiring between the battery and where(if?) the wires split to go to separate pads.


Thanks for that, I've looked them up. Do I need to look for anything specific? Do they have "power limits"? Will they allow for the wattage I'd want with them at 100%?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heated gear which is controlled by a device that pulses the power to the gear more pulses = more heat
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
I have heated gear which is controlled by a device that pulses the power to the gear more pulses = more heat


Ah so I could devise a pulse generator to open another relay. The pulses would be altered with the potentiometer there.

I could swear I made something like that with a 555 years ago ... I'll look for a pulse generator instead ... exciting.

EDIt- perhaps not a relay, that'd be asking it to act rather fast ...
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple = best in my book

If you connect the grips up using a simple a double pole, double throw three position switch, you han have high, low and off.

In high, they're connected in paralell, in low they're connected in series. vide infra
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/switchwiring-1.png
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Simple = best in my book

If you connect the grips up using a simple a double pole, double throw three position switch, you han have high, low and off.

In high, they're connected in paralell, in low they're connected in series. vide infra

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/switchwiring-1.png


I was very hoping you'd turn up. Thumbs Up

That's probably the best way. I suppose I was trying to be too creative when it wasn't required. I'll give that a go and see what sort of temps it achieves.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep PWM is bit sofistercated for them things
I suggest running them in parallel first cos if they're
like the ones I played with years ago, they won't exactly take the
skin off your hands running flat out.
Are we talking of ones like pictured below?
Remember they'll lose heat into the bars and some heat will be insulated by the grip, so don't get fooled by a bench test
TLDR
fit pads and grips, run flat out
IF they get too hot, after 15 minutes use the switch method above
to run them in series
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAxMFgxMDEw/z/peoAAOSwal5YHa96/$_57.JPG?set_id=880000500F
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Yep PWM is bit sofistercated for them things
I suggest running them in parallel first cos if they're
like the ones I played with years ago, they won't exactly take the
skin off your hands running flat out.
Are we talking of ones like pictured below?
Remember they'll lose heat into the bars and some heat will be insulated by the grip, so don't get fooled by a bench test
TLDR
fit pads and grips, run flat out
IF they get too hot, after 15 minutes use the switch method above
to run them in series
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAxMFgxMDEw/z/peoAAOSwal5YHa96/$_57.JPG?set_id=880000500F


They are these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281771619800?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm thinking of stitching them into a fleece vest thing and seeing if I can warm myself that way. I've found a superseal plug etc to make it pluggable into the bike.

I have muffs on the bike, I'm a believer of keeping core warm to keep extremities warm too. Muffs prevent the wind blast cooling my hands so I reckon warm blood will suffice.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

DIY heated clothing using cheap chinese components eh?

Riiiight.......

I do hope the vid of you writhing on the ground screaming
"Arghh! it burns! it burns!"
gets posted here before it gets to Youtube
Smile
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
DIY heated clothing using cheap chinese components eh?

Riiiight.......

I do hope the vid of you writhing on the ground screaming
"Arghh! it burns! it burns!"
gets posted here before it gets to Youtube
Smile


Fo shoooooo!

The components are resistive wire and a switch. How bad can it be? Just wait, when it's made I might crowdfund it. I'll call it "chilly-m8" and make a fortune.

I'm imagining I can somehow integrate a camera, GPS tag, SOS light and an in built cheese grater. If you get your pre-pre-notapurchase-order-purchase in now, you'll save 0.14%.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps the world is ready for heated knees sliders?
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owl
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

cock sock warmer
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

vice wrote:
cock sock warmer


Chilly-Willy-M8
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G
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Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrSnoosnoo wrote:

I'm thinking of stitching them into a fleece vest thing and seeing if I can warm myself that way. I've found a superseal plug etc to make it pluggable into the bike.

You can (or could) buy DIY heated clothing kits, or the wire by it's self to extra-DIY it.
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ferrisio
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PostPosted: 06:22 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, my old R1100RS has knackered heating elements under the grips and looks like a big expensive hassle to sort. Are these elements suitable for bodging a kind of replacement? Doesn't matter if they don't get scalding hot - just enough to not be freezing would be great as I've got guards in front to keep the wind off.
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1-up
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


I used to have these on the GSX, worked well until one day the went red hot and I mean red hot. Never used a cheap pair since, the VFR has a paid of heated grips by Oxford (premium touring).
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