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Nsr 125 lights depleting battery and bleeding niple question

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david451
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Joined: 06 Nov 2016
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PostPosted: 02:11 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Nsr 125 lights depleting battery and bleeding niple question Reply with quote

Hello, i have replaced the standard 25/25 bulbs for some 35/35 aliexpress ones, after using lights for 30 mins and stoppping the bike for a while, if i try to start it the battery looks like it has no power. Batery is a budget batery with 4amp and about 1 year of service.

All my lights are standard but the head with 35/35 and the tail with 2 led bulbs.

About the niple, i need to replace my front brake bleed niple, would any standar m8 1.25 screw do the job? one from aliexpress for example?

Thanks!

Edit: forgot the model sorry, nsr 125 r 1997
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Twin lights so you have added 20W, so about 1.6a of extra current draw. I wouldn't expect that you kill the battery, especially as you have saved a bit with the LED tail light bulbs..

A cheapo battery can be pretty dead within 6 months easily, so it could just be the battery.

I have a feeling that Grimeca use the same setup as Brembo, so probably an M8 x 1.25. But not certain.

All the best

Katy
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alains
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

kickstart pointed the main thing : you cant use a cheap battery
check if yours is OK as :
- put on charge at slow intensity during 12Hours
- check Heath,too hot is a bad sign
- check voltage 1/4H afterwards (should be 12.8VDC)
- let it cool down 2 hours and take voltage again
if voltage has lost more than 5% bat is worn
the best battery is the sealed model like this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JMT-Motorcycle-Gel-battery-YTX5L-BS-Honda-NSR-125-R-1998-/272393902588?hash=item3f6bf119fc:g:ytcAAOSwzaJX7BfK
note : power voltage is plenty enough to add 20W
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david451
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm i dont uderstand one thing, how does a 4ah battery supply this bike if: 25x2/12/= 4.16 amps, ¿only with front lights the amps that the battery offers are already surpased? note that im completelly clueless about electricity (almost) so be easy on me please.

About the problem, ¿so i can discard stator/regulator/bike problem? I was thinking about take off the "position" bulbs and save 10 wats, im going to change the clock bulbs for leds aswell, will see if that helps. I really dont want to go back to 25/25 Neutral

About the niple my main concern is the lenght of it, as the metrics are the same and it should fit, it has cost me only 0.86e on aliexpress....hope the quality is decent.

PD: thx Alain for making "nsr tips" doc! its great!
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The battery you describe is 4aH. So it can provide 4amps for an hour. But when the bike is running it is only having to provide power to cover any difference between what the RR can provide and what the bike is using. Most of the time the RR can provide plenty more than the bike is using so can charge the battery.

A battery on its last legs can do all sorts of odd things and easily just fail to hold charge, but it is worth checking the battery voltage with the engine running (ie, with a 12V battery it should be about 12.7V with the engine off, ~13.5v idling and going up to about 14.5v with the engine being revved).

All the best

Kayt
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alains
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

5Ah is the avaiable amout of power
it can provide 1amp for 5Hours, 5amps for 1 hour, 50amps for 6mn
the alternator will provide 276W at 5500 rpm
the ignition takes about 100W totaly independant of the total
so you have 176W for electronics (valves,winkers,regulations), lights and dashes . so it's plenty and the battery provides a bit more if necessary (of course it isnt)
but the battery is part of the charging system so with a worn battery the system is unbalanced
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david451
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if the bike takes about 100 wats with all lights valve etc there is still plenty of watts for usage, i could even upgrade bulbs to 50/50 (theorically, cause i have read the heat can melt fairings) and, ¿the bike should provide enough power still to charge the battery?

So either my battery is just a bad battery or my bike somehow isnt providing enough power, guess i need a multimeter to make some tests, ¿right?

¿How can i know if my alternator is defective?

Thx for your support guys much appreciated.
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alains
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

back to where kickstart says : with the battery and engine running at 5500 rpm the voltage should be 14.5 VDC (14.2 is more acurate)
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

david451 wrote:
So if the bike takes about 100 wats with all lights valve etc there is still plenty of watts for usage, i could even upgrade bulbs to 50/50 (theorically, cause i have read the heat can melt fairings) and, ¿the bike should provide enough power still to charge the battery?


Depends on how you are using the bike. Lots of short journies (using the starter motor a lot) and bimbling around at low revs will mean the battery will probably not be charged up (low revs means less charging power, and the starter motor puts a hell of a strain on the system).

david451 wrote:
So either my battery is just a bad battery or my bike somehow isnt providing enough power, guess i need a multimeter to make some tests, ¿right?

¿How can i know if my alternator is defective?.


Check the voltage over the battery with the engine off / engine idling / engine being revved as above. If it checks out then great. If the voltage goes up with revs, but nowhere near enough then likely the issue is the actual alternator windings. If the voltage doesn't go up when revved then probably the regulator / rectifier. If the revs go through the roof when revved then again probably the regulator / rectifier, but be careful as it will likely fry various other electronic units and kill the battery.

You can pick up multimeters quite cheaply.

All the best

Katy
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david451
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so i have to ride at 10k revs so my battery gets more charge, perfect ! Laughing

Nice info about how the battery works thx!

In the next days i will get a multimeter and check it, never used one but looks pretty easy, i will update the post with the results as i get them.
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david451
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the readings:

Engine off: 12.85
Idle: 13.10 with lights off 12.20 lights on with some random drop to 11.8.
Revved: 14.0 lights off 13.2 lights on
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owl
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

hate it when my nipples bleed, tape helps.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

david451 wrote:
Here are the readings:

Engine off: 12.85
Idle: 13.10 with lights off 12.20 lights on with some random drop to 11.8.
Revved: 14.0 lights off 13.2 lights on


That is a bit on the low side, both with the lights on and with the lights off.

All the best

Katy
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david451
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i guess i can discard a stator problem at least, guess its just a low quality battery, anyway now that i have a multimeter and know how to test it i will keep an eye on it for the next weeks, thx for your time guys.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 21:51 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Have you checked the stator? Low voltage but still voltage going up with revs suggests possibly a stator issue.

All the best

Katy
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david451
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Have no clue of how to check the stator, can i check it with the multimeter? any tips?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the engine running (different revs) and the meter set on 200 V~ with red lead jack plugged in V O mA and black lead jack plugged in COM, give the 3 yellow or white wires going into the reg/rec a number then check / probe 1+2, 1+3, 2+3. What are your 3 readings?
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david451
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys, i checked the battery today after a long ride with lights on
13 on idle 14.25 revved, only strange thing (i dont know if its strange Rolling Eyes ) is the max voltage is reached at 2k-3k rmp, if i rev up to 5k the voltage drops to 13.75, however if this is normal i think im going just to keep an eye on battery on next weeks and thats it.

Thx to all for your time and your free tips.
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alains
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 10 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

buy a new sealed battery
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