Calling Jap wiring experts

[J4c7]

Hi chaps,
I'm new to the forum so here's a short introduction to my project and my self:
I've been riding for a year, learnt a bit about general servicing but wanted more to learn. Sold my 08 SV650 for a 91 GSX1100F (same age as me) and bought a hardtail HUC frame.
Stripped down the GSX and now I'm at the stage where the engine mounted is and I have a rolling chassis.

So, I'm now battling the wiring...(what a head melt)...
What I would like to do is strip the wiring back and rewire everything to run it with the (road legal) bare minimum. Maybe 2 looms connected, 1 for ignition and 1 for lights and indicators with a load of bullet connectors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I'm generally looking for guidance on what I need to keep and what I can bin...
I won't be running the tachometer, fuel gauge, sidestand switch, fuel sender unit, powerscreen motor and relay, there is no fan on my uk model.
Can I wire the neutral switch directly to the neutral light and cut out the SS diode, relay and switch?

I've read a few basic wiring guides but I would I would get some input here to best tailor what I'm trying to achieve.
Thanks!
I've attached a photo of the wiring diagram for reference.

[AzzA1990]

If you've got the wiring diagram (preferably one in colour) you should be able to locate the wires for the items you wish to discard and remove them from the loom? i worked in an auto electrics garage for a few years but never done anything quite to the extent that you're doing, we usually look at wiring diagrams to locate and then repair, with wirng personally if I've got the wiring diagram handy i just jump in the deep end with it, you're half way there if you have the diagram and know how to read it, sorry i couldn't be anymore of a help

[hmmmnz]

are you using the water cooled motor??
shame really, the gsxr/bandit air/oil cooled motor is probably more suited to the job

are you wanting the clocks?

or absolute bare bones.

this is keeping the clocks,

with the fan, id ditch the controller/timer and go with a manual switch,
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[J4c7]

Yes I've got the colour wiring diagram and I will keep the original wires. What I wanted to do was create my own wiring diagram for bare bones but include indicators, headlight..etc I just don't have that kind of experience.
I am using an aftermarket gauge and idiot lights which I plan on wiring last.
It is the oil cooled GSXF motor and doesn't have a fan.
https://puu.sh/ssYPN/e336fe3a16.jpg

I'm toying with cutting up the diagram on photoshop before making a balls of it with the actual wire.
Does this look like it might work?
https://puu.sh/ssZB0/f07e3854f1.jpg
https://puu.sh/st00F/a1da013673.jpg
Not sure if I cut the sidestand diode out it will work, because of something to do with the AC > DC conversion it does??

[hmmmnz]

yep that'd work fine,
id also ditch the grey park light wires that go to the indicators.

and probably the clutch switch as well, unless you really want it, but how often do you stall in traffic and then try and restart the bike with out pulling in the clutch


you've basically got a bandit wiring diagram now
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[J4c7]

Woo! Positive feedback. Cheers man.
One of my main worries is the orange wire that replaces the sidestand diode switch and relay, from the kill switch to the fuse box. If you look at the relay in not sure if it's meant to be an open or closed connection. So would the orange wire connected in turn create the signal to activate the kill switch.
Can you tell I'm a complete noob with this stuff?
I think it's a fairly good idea that I've cut the diagram up first before making a balls up with the wiring.

[hmmmnz]

if you follow the wire, it feeds the kiil switch and starter button,
so it has to be closed to provide power to those 2.

when the side stand is down its an open circuit and doesnt allow power to reach the kill switch.

the diagram is good to go

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/ss__2016-11-24_at_03.04.36_.jpg
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[J4c7]

Ah I get you, didn't expect you to edit that too. Thanks! I really appreciate that man. I'll get stuck in to the wires within the next day or so. I've already stripped the loom apart but not cut much and I still need to pick up some new terminals so I can tidy everything.

[hmmmnz]

no worries,

you could probably slim that down considerably as well,
if you ditched the pass light button,

changed the lights to always on, and just had the dimmer switch, (or always had the lights dipped)
and ditched the kill switch and just had a starter button
or changed the ignition switch to a car type and start it with the key car style. and for go the starter button as well

you could could always resort to hand signals and ditch the indicators as well, or mount the indicator switch some where else and that way you'd have no wiring on the bars.

food for thought, i know how you cruiser riders like clean bars
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[J4c7]

Thanks hmmmnz,
You've been a great help.
I'm trying to keep it MOT vehicle test friendly (they are quite strict here in N.Ireland). As much as I would like to ditch most of the wires to the handlebars, I would most likely keep them as stock as possible for the MOT tester.

The wires you removed from the front indicators are the day time running wires? What way do they work, that's confusing me? The more I can dump the better..

I'm running back and forth from freezing cold garage to the warmth at my PC to research and make sure I'm not doing anything wrong lol.

PS. I'm actually a sport bike rider, this is my first cruiser lol, hence the GSX engine

[hmmmnz]

thats what they all say when they have a cruiser in the garage

the grey wires were for running lights,
was an american thing i beleive,
not a requirement over here in the u of k,

if you wanted to keep most of the functionality then keep with that diagram,

obviously you wont have a window winder now, so might be worth getting bandit hand controls for that side to get rid of the extra switch.

good luck
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches