Second/Third real proper ride out, something happened. Help?

[NutsyUk]

I was going to swafham, to get a couple bits from the shops and to fill the tank up for my ride to kings lynn tomorrow...

And well. This was an eventful ride. A little worrying tbh.

I was on the main A road going to swafham (Castle Acre side for those who know the area) ... I got my bike to around 50mph (cant really seem to go higher than that) Going around 7000-8000 revs bike seemed happy cruising at that for a bit...

Then suddenly all the power went and it started to slow down and died. Im on a main road a little before the turning to Spoole, and theres a pit stop side road on the other side... Managed to find a space in the traffic and push my bike over to it. I gave my bike a few minutes and tried to start up and it worked fine. I got into town safely.

I must admit. The bike smelled hot. Maybe it was just the road crud and mud cooking but I'm a little worried. Do these cheapo engines heat up far too easily?

The tank was half full so I dont think the fuel gravitated away from the outlet.

Was I revving too high?

I changed the oil yesterday, could that have done it?

So yeah, any ideas?


I must admit, I'm already wishing i had a slightly faster bike. Not being able to hit 60 comfortably on an A road makes me feel exposed.

Oh i should say, I couple on a bike stop by me, I think just to check if I was ok, Was nice of them. Couldn't hear anything, I just said it conked out and thanked them for stopping...

If they happen to be on here... Hi Thanks again.
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[smallfrowne]

<copper>
Ello ello ello, that's a nice topic for the Workshop you've got yourself there.

I've stopped you, but I also ride a fireblade</copper>, ahem I mean a CG125, so I'll chip in with some not very helpful remarks.

I used to run my cg up and down the motorway, at a steady 55mph(ish) and it didn't like the cooler plug (or was it the hotter plug). But swapping it for the other plug - whether it was hotter or colder I'm not sure, but Honda/Haynes recommend a plug for extended "high speed" cruising, over a normal one. Ran fine with that plug, otherwise it was very sluggish on the standard plug and I did have to stop on the hard shoulder to change once. Could be something else though, like running lean (which I've heard chinese bikes often do).
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'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90

[M.C]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

'Tis the carb icing season.

[Rogerborg]

[linuxyeti]

When it ran out of power and came to a halt, did it feel a bit like fuel starvation, granted you may not know what that feels like, could quite possibly be a vacuum being created, a quick simple test would have been opening the the tank cap, closing it a try to start it straight away.

Another question, you did remember to turn the choke off ??
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Beware what photos you upload, or link to on here, especially if you have family members on them

[Brendan110_0]

I had an issue like that on a 125cc Haotian Vixen once.......turned out to be the side stand switch (water ingress). Was it raining at any point?
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sreeB fo gniK

[NutsyUk]

It seemed to run about the same... Gears are easier after the oil change. Yeah i would say a spoon fulls shy of a litre went in, as i put a few drops in first to kinda wash it through a little, get the last of the crap out. What came out was black...

Window shows a good level of clean oil.

The air filter was cleaned a little while ago when I first got the bike and was stripping bits down and cleaning it.

I put one of those HK high power spark plugs in, I've not checked the colour yet. Gapped the spark plug? not sure what you mean by that. Making sure there is nothing in spark gap?

Chain was cleaned a couple months ago, we did put new lube on it, maybe not enough? My dad did that bit though and I would have thought he put the right amount on given his experience with motor cross.

As for the breaks, well I think there might be something there, as i noticed when pushing the bike a soft rubbing sound.

As for previous owners work... Nothing in the log book, they put on some cheap fake carbon fibre print small mirrors on ( I want to replace ) Thats about it.
The clock hard only 6k kilometres on it. So for the most part its kinda like new really. And I don't think the previous two owners did anything to the engine. Other than nearly chew up the oil nut.

As for fuel starvation, maybe... Though at that high rev i didnt notice if it suddenly started spurting out higher revs like 2 strokes do.

I did wonder if some how there was a bubble in the fuel line, but the tank was a good half+ full and its been ridden for a bit around the yard before and on some small roads recently. So any bubble would have long gone by then.

Oh just a quickly, about driving hobbits... When coming to a junction i want to slow down for, like it not being my right of way or because i want to turn. Should i drop my gears first or break first? Because I was on a automatic at the CBT its something they didnt really cover.

As its a four stroke i have engine breaking and my transitioning isnt too smooth. i look like a right noob bumping about...

Im sure with the practice ill get better but wouldnt mind the odd tip... Oh and as the first post mentioned. Should this thread be in the workshop subforum?

Oh and as for the choke... Up until i was about to take my return journey... I totally forgot the bike had a choke ...

It was off yes.

And this bike doesnt have a fuel tap...

Ill take another look at the side stand but i dont think there is a cut off switch there.
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[kgm]

Gapping a spark plug is just checking that the gap is the specified size. Most spark plugs come preset. Use whatever kind the manufacturer recommends, not much point 'upgrading.' Some little bikes don't do so well with iridium plugs, my cg certainly runs better on the normal ones.

In this weather if you ride regularly you'll need to lube the chain regularly.

[Nobby the Bastard]

The usual reason for a bike to die when hot and then be fine once it's cooled down is the coil starting to break down.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[WULFSTAN]

I know it sounds silly but make sure your not running on reserve. I left my old cg on reserve a few times causing the same symptoms as you describe.
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Your backside is better enough for you to run again, if need be – bristle up the courage of the cornered rat, put on a bold front, and to hell with them. Bluff my boy – bluff, shift and lie for the sake of your neck and the honour of Old England

[NutsyUk]

No reserve tank, no tank tap... Would be nice if it did though

Coil breaking down... that a thing?
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[Hong Kong Phooey]

[NutsyUk]

[Teflon-Mike]

An oil chance s a oil change, not a 'full service'! My bet would be that the tappets are out of adjustment, 6K Km, they should have been done a couple of times and probably never have. As engine gets hot, gaps open up, valves stop opening so far, engine looses power... its a service adjustment oft ignored as it means exposing scary bits of engine. Do them or get them done, and likely be stunned at the difference it makes; Also fit new plug whilst you are at it. Sod cleaning and gapping! They are hardly expensive, and that doesn't 'fix' the wear on plugs which is corner erosion on the electrodes.

Next up; slowing down for junctions, whether to go down the gears.... hints at another common newb issue... and I'll bet you aren't getting more than 50 from the thing 'cos you are going up ALL the gears before you are doing 40mph, and trying to do all your accelerating above that in top.

Hint: REV THE KNACKERS OFF IT!

Most 125's will suffer this same phenomena, Chinky ones more so; Top gear is an 'over-drive'.

If you short shift to top before 40, you will be pulling maybe only 5ooo revs, where the engine only makes about 5bhp, which is more than enough to go 40mph, but as you try accelerating, the power increases in almost direct proportion to revs, so at 6K you'll have 6bhp, 7K 7, 8K, 8, etc until you get to the peak power of about 10bhp at about 10K revs.

Trouble is wind resistance is increasing 'exponentially' as you go faster; takes about 3bhp to go 30mph, 9bhp to go 60, 27bhp to go 90, 81bhp to go 120.. ie the 'drag' tripples for every extra 30mph, ad while you have enough power at 'peak' revs to go about 60-65mph, in top gear, at lower revs, you will top out about 50-55, as the force the engine makes matches drag and you dont have any spare power at those lower revs to accelerate through and get to the power higher up that would let you go faster.... which is why we have a gear-box...

Rough guide; 1st off the line, but as it's usually extra low to make loads of force to potetally do a 2up hill start with luggage, you can 'short shift' into 2nd pretty early, probably almost as soon as you are moving; and you can STAY n 2n'd to around 30mph, so on 20/30 limit roads, you shouldn't 'need' to chage any higher, and slowing for junctions, NOT have to change gear.. do it all on the throttle; and you should only need 1st again IF you actually have to stop. 3rd Gear. Will cover around 30mph to about 45-50ish; 'round town' you shouldn't really 'need' a higher cog, and 3rd will give you the 'response' to react to changing traffic conditions... AND slowing for hazards, junctions et, you oly have ONE gear to come down, and fairly early, to carry on doing it on the throttle. 4th? When you are up to speed and not likely to have to react to much or change speed for anything; this is you A-Road gear and should take you pretty much to your max speed of 60; and you only really need 'top' IF on an open road you aren't likely to have to change speed much, and you can knock the revs back a bit, and 'maybe' eek a couple of extra mph from it more favourable condtions.

To wit; this may help you achieve better road seed AND help your braking for junctions conundrum about what to do about 'gear'.. 'cos if you aint gone up'up you shouldn't need come back down'em! And if you have... you aught to be going fast enough with enough room you can come down them one at a time, without having to 'rush' the changes..

Only time you shouldn't do it on the gear is in an e-stop, and even THEN you dont wop in teh clutch and 'coast'; you lave the clutch out until you are about to bang your feet down, SO that the engine is offering what braking it can to the plot.

NEVER EVER 'coast'.. no 'drive' no 'control'... 90% of riding a bike is in wrist, on the throttle, short shifting, using the gears not the throttle, and you are chucking away the greatest influence you have over the bike,and just making more work for yourself and more opotrunity for effup, clogng up and down cogs you dont need to.
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[NutsyUk]

Tanks Mike, just about to head off to Lynn now... got about 15 miles of 60mph zone to drive through. Ill leave the gear changing a bit later than usual and see how it goes.

The spark plug is new, maybe 10-15 miles use on it...

Ill let you know how I did when i get back
____________________
Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[stinkwheel]

Was it you who mentioned the previous owner having muttered something about "the bottom end"?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ariel Badger]

This "High Power" plug that you speak of.....
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Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.

[Rogerborg]

[smallfrowne]

Well, yeah I'm with Ariel, I'd be interested to know what plug you are using, as it's easy and cheap to change it and can make all the difference.

Not entirely sure what engine is in your lexmoto but lexmoto.co.uk says it is a 156FMI, which I think a CG copy so I'll go with that. I looked up the two plug types I was on about before (for the CG):
> Normal riding : NGK DPR8EA-9
> Extended "high speed" riding: NGK DPR9EA-9

Note, it's the number after 'DPR' which denotes the heat rating of the plug.
DPR8EA-9
9 being hotter than 8. So you run a 9 if you are expecting to get the engine very hot for a time.

Not sure what plug you are using or what lexmoto even recommend but if it was running sluggish again to old lynny then I'd play about with the plug for relative ease, plus it made a world of difference to my CG so I'm biased. I'd definitely check the tappets too, 'cause that is easy and free - though them fairings may make it more of a chore . They might never have been done before.

Could still be something else, I'd check the carb next. Are lexmotos set up to run lean to meet euro standards does anyone know? Running lean will mean the engine runs hotter, which probably burns off more badthings but will not be nice to the little hengine for runs out at 50+mph, and as mentioned those fairings may not be helping.

Might be a nice idea to check the carb over, even just to rule out anyone's previous ideas of "improvement".

And yeah, I did say this probably should be in workshop, but you seem to be getting away with it *dab*
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'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90

[Rogerborg]

I can confirm that a "P" projector tip plug should be OK in that engine. I ran a DPR9EIX-9 (iridium) in mine.

[NutsyUk]

I think its the NGK DR8EIX (just checked the older and it was)

Well Im alive I did a trip to Kings Lynn and was cruising at 50-55 again around 7-8k rpm... And no engine dying. Seemed to be ok.

I even managed to go a little over 60 as well, could have hit 70 on the down hill... but I just didnt feel that stable on the bike to risk it.

i dunno maybe it needed a bit of running in and me getting used to going at some sort of speed.

Though I will check out the bits and pieces. When i had the carb open before when I was cleaning the bike up nothing had been changed to it. Its the standard box air intake... I did clean out the filter.

The bottom end... yeah the previous owner said something about it, but was really vague to the point of wondering if there was anything. It was still a relatively new bike and its unlikely the bottom end had gone.

Since the oil change, gear changing and getting into neutral is a lot smoother.

Im certainly riding a lot moe confidently than i was before. And i even enjoyed the slow town riding :p
____________________
Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[Rogerborg]

Sounds fine then. You will need to thrash the nuts off of it to make progress. Peak power on the CG is quoted at 9000rpm, I regularly saw north of 10,000 on my copy-engine.

I would agree with giving the tappets a look, or at least a listen. Again, https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/valve_clearance.htm covers it although there are doubtless better guides or videos out there.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[NutsyUk]

Ahh 9 thousand or ten thousand :p i wasnt anywhere near them... I was worried i was pushing this engine too hard at 7 or 8 thousand

Ill risk a bit more next time ill check the tippets and bits out too... Tomorrow im mostly putting a UV exposure / light box together for my pcb stuff...

Added:

Ahh i need a feeler gauge. Im not sure if dad has one... if he does I might check the valves tomorrow... One of the things i noticed with this bike I cant leave it idling. It will kill out after a little bit. And getting it started cold can be a bit of an issue too...
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
Kawasaki ER6F 2007 650 Gonna sell as a project bike!
Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[Teflon-Mike]