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Mototune break in method

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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Mototune break in method Reply with quote

I used the mototune break in method (get it warm, thrash the crap out of it, then change the oil at 50 miles, repeat, done) on the grom, and it worked a treat. It took me a sunny Saturday to get it run in, and after nearly 3 years I've had no problems.

I've just bought myself an XSR900 which I pick up in a couple of weeks, and I'll probably do the same again, but with one small problem. Thrashing it will result in going a lot faster then the grom.

Any thoughts on how to do this without doing eleventy miles an hour?
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andym
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

First gear?
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

No good it's load not Revs that you need to run an engine in in this manner if it's the theory you follow. You'd need to ride the bike up hill all the time really to try and load it enough.

Im not sure what the change oil at 50miles and again at 100miles is actually achieving though personally? Are you changing the filter both times as well?
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Book dyno time?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Im not sure what the change oil at 50miles and again at 100miles is actually achieving though personally?

Removing any initial swarf. I ran my Chinese 125 in gently (I'll thrash any other new bike that I buy) but still did a few early oil changes anyway.

Loading is a good point, so how about riding it on the throttle and brakes. Kind of serious, we're only talking about a few miles of beneficent abuse.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's just my opinion, but if there was any initial Swarf in the motor from machining or assembly which would be very sloppy workmanship anyway, I'd rather drop the sump off and clean it out that way.

I think it's the oil filters job to catch any bits of metal that might be deposited in the running in process, so at 500miles say when running in is over, I'd just change the oil then and the filter too.

Oil changes at 50miles won't IMO do anything beneficial nor will it catch any bits worth removing. And if you ever do an oil change without also changing the filter at the same time, it's totally pointless IMO. But I get that it's a subject we've all got very passionate different opinions on.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 28 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dropped the oil on the msx after 50 miles. The oil was noticeably shiny from the metal in there.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 28 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:
I dropped the oil on the msx after 50 miles. The oil was noticeably shiny from the metal in there.

Yeahbut, people who didn't do that can refute your evidence with supposition. Folded arms
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DJP
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you could, y'know, just ride normally.

From memory, the handbook for my Yam said: “Avoid prolonged operation above 6,000rpm for the first 1,000 miles”

ie Just don't thrash the tits off it.

I didn't even read the running-in instructions for my current bike.

I've had 5 new bikes in the last 20 years. Some I've run in by the book, some I've run in via the Motoman method and the last two I've just ridden as I normally would.

None of which has ever made the slightest difference – they've all been perfectly fine.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Trophy is an ex demo so you can be sure it hasn't been run in, just ridden /thrashed straight out of the box. I've had no issues.

I can remember having brand new bikes back in the 70's and 80's that had pretty well the same running in procedures that modern stuff does. I can't believe that manufacturing tolerances haven't improved a 100 fold over back then. I'm sure a lot of it is manufacturers just playing safe.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no evidence than it's any better than following the manufacturer recommendations.
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goto10
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
There's no evidence than it's any better than following the manufacturer recommendations.


True.
I 'Mototuned' my NC700 when I bought it 4.5 years ago - it now has 70k on it and still running as-new.
But I have absolutely no evidence that running in by the manufacturer's method would've been any different.

That said, I'd do it again with anything else that I bought from new.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
There's no evidence than it's any better than following the manufacturer recommendations.

https://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg
et al.

There's no confirmation that it works. But then again, I can't see any refutation of it either, except from people who haven't tried it.

No jews were gassed to bring you this information.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Re: Mototune break in method Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:

Any thoughts on how to do this without doing eleventy miles an hour?


Did you even read the Mototune website?

Quote:
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there's any harm in going more or less by the manufacturers recommendations, or using the mototune method. Anywhere in between the two is probably just fine too. The key, imo, is not to putter around from new never letting the engine work at all. I also wouldn't do things like go up steep hills in a high gear, or sit on a motorway for miles without varying the revs at all. I'd also probably stay away from the redline for a while. Otherwise, I'd use it pretty much as normal, including some spirited riding. I have only ever caned one bike from brand new (FZ750), didn't do any extra oil changes, and never had any problems with it (except for crashing it one week into ownership Whistle ).

I also ran in one of the first GSXR750s by the book. Didn't have any problems with that one either.

I think people overthink this whole running-in business tbh. Use a little common sense, let it rev a bit, don't labour it excessively.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Install crap tyres

Position front wheel facing wall

Burnout.

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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about booking two track day's back to back over a weekend Thinking

Laughing Laughing Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
MarJay wrote:
There's no evidence than it's any better than following the manufacturer recommendations.

https://www.mototuneusa.com/BreakInF3Pistons.jpg
et al.

There's no confirmation that it works. But then again, I can't see any refutation of it either, except from people who haven't tried it.

No jews were gassed to bring you this information.


That ain't evidence of anything except that someone put a brand new piston next to a used one. If they thought about it properly they would have realised that from the top rig to the crown is unaffected by piston ring seal so should have evidence of combustion where their example shows none.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

goto10 wrote:
MarJay wrote:
There's no evidence than it's any better than following the manufacturer recommendations.


True.
I 'Mototuned' my NC700 when I bought it 4.5 years ago - it now has 70k on it and still running as-new.
But I have absolutely no evidence that running in by the manufacturer's method would've been any different.

That said, I'd do it again with anything else that I bought from

new.


That really doesn't count. The NC700 is half a car engine anyway and is very different from the majority of bike engines.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

That ain't evidence of anything except that someone put a brand new piston next to a used one. If they thought about it properly they would have realised that from the top rig to the crown is unaffected by piston ring seal so should have evidence of combustion where their example shows none.


The photo was so ridiculous I assumed he was trolling anyway, in his usual Rogerborg way.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be a bit more specific how I run in a brand new 250bhp/litre two stroke, but otherwise agree that running in these days for most engines is not too critical. I bet oil quality and formulation has got a bit to do with it too.

You used to hear alot about medium and high speed four stroke diesel engines, that could/would glaze the bores and start burning oil if they were not loaded hard from new or run under load or did lots of idling etc. You don't even hear so much about new diesels doing this anymore, so I bet modern oils have helped here too.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've ran in a bike using the approved method before. 600 miles of boring slow riding keeping the revs and power low.

I only do about 1500 miles a year, so it'll take well into summer to get though 600 miles of running in. The mototune method gets it out the way in 50 miles.

As I've already tried it, and it seems to work well, and I can't find anyone who has tried it and had a problem, I can't see a good reason not to use this method.

It's just that the XSR900 is a fair bit quicker than anything I've tried this one before
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goto10
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
goto10 wrote:


True.
I 'Mototuned' my NC700 when I bought it 4.5 years ago - it now has 70k on it and still running as-new.
But I have absolutely no evidence that running in by the manufacturer's method would've been any different.

That said, I'd do it again with anything else that I bought from

new.


That really doesn't count. The NC700 is half a car engine anyway and is very different from the majority of bike engines.


Don't car engines need running in? Would you not follow a car manufacturer's method for running in a new engine?




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Rockhopper
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 05 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some ECU's can log engine revs etc so if you ever had a warranty claim they could read the ECU and find out that you didn't run it in according to the manual.
My BMW owning friend picked his bike up after a service and they commented on how many times the ABS had been activated!!
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