clutch upgrade (bandit 6 to bandit 12)

[dandit]

ok I have had a brainwave can I put the bandit12 clutch in my bandit6 or can I upgrade mine to hydraulic????? somehow I fink I would prefer hydraulic clutch IDEAS/ADVICE please
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WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE I STILL HAD 3 GEARS TO GO OFFICER. Currently riding a naked cbr 600 and driving a 52 plate 2litre tdci mondeo

[G]

[Guest]

You'd have to seriously mod the 600 sprocket cover - ally welding and then some machining - to accept the 1200 slave cylinder. Not worth the hassle IMO

[dandit]

I am thinking of putting the old gsxr 750 head on it and would just like to have a hydralic clutch aswell just an idea I had thats all as all my bikes I have had I have snapped clutch cables even though I lube and adjust regulary
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WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE I STILL HAD 3 GEARS TO GO OFFICER. Currently riding a naked cbr 600 and driving a 52 plate 2litre tdci mondeo

[Bendy]

Just buy a Bandit 12.

[dandit]

[G]

Remember, hydraulic clutches can go wrong as well!

Had to help a bloke at work fill up and bleed his clutch because he could hardly use it at all as it had leaked.

More likely to go in a crash as well, I suspect.

[dandit]

[G]

No reason a clutch cable should go if it's checked regularly .

You could always get a braided steel outer for your clutch cable; would be a lot easier than modifying the bike to work with a hydraulic clutch.

Paying the insurance on the bandit 12 may well be cheaper than getting something like that made up for you.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Think the Bandit 1200 clutch is based on the GSXR750 design but with hydraulic actuation (think the 750 is cable operated). Easiest thing to do would be to use a 750 clutch.

The 1200 clutch is not that strong, which is why mine has Barnett plates and springs in it (once the engine was played with it let go by about 6000rpm in every gear, even with brand new plates).

If the Bandit 600 clutch is actuated on the clutch cover then it would probably be a major amount of work as you would need to machine the crankcases to accept the actuating rod that goes through the gearbox, assuming that is possible.

Personally I far prefer hydraulic clutches to cable ones. Never had any real problems with hydralic ones, but had quite a few cables snap or just get too stiff to use smoothly.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[sickpup]

Ok the B12 clutch is based loosely around the GSXR1100 one but is an inferior piece of shit needing a steel band wrapped around it to keep it in one piece.

If you fitted a B12 or 1100 clutch you would need to fit a 5 speed gearbox as the clutch shaft has different splines. You would also need to change the primary gear as all the clutchs use a different tooth count and or profile.

The easiest way for you to do it would be to get all the bits from a hydraulic clutch GSXR750J/K (I think) or even earlier but you will be looking at a huge bill.

I will try to have a look at some of my scrap engines and see if I can work out how to do it cheaply.

Note that it is possible to do all of it with genuine Suzuki parts with out having to modify anything like some people are telling you. For example my 750RK which has a cable as standard now has a hydro clutch.

[dandit]

it doesnt have to be a b12 but I'd realy like a hydraulic clutch as I have had a few hydraulics and never had problems with them but cable ones are an arse especily in winter when it gets caked up with salt and crap hmm hydraulic clutch is the way to go me thinks... keep the ideas comming folks I would like to bin the cable operated one its arse
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WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE I STILL HAD 3 GEARS TO GO OFFICER. Currently riding a naked cbr 600 and driving a 52 plate 2litre tdci mondeo

[G]

Sure you haven't just been unlucky with cables?

I've only had one cable snap and I knew it was going anyway.

[dandit]

[sickpup]

Well if You have the money I'll do the work.

[dandit]

[sickpup]

If I remember the clutch cable on a B6 goes to the sprocket cover so you should just get away with a B12 (if not one off a 1052 GSXR) sprocket cover, master cylinder, clutch hose, fluid and a little fucking around with the push rod length.

[dandit]

[Robby]

So you have money for all this, but not to bump your insurance up 2 or 3 hundred to insure a bigger bike.

[dandit]

[iCraig]

Erm a bandit engine will not need a rebore at 33,000 at all!

At the mileage its going to barely worn.

And as for hydralic clutches get a VFR750 or a Triumph if you really want one.

[dandit]

[Kickstart]

Hi

If you are tempted with a 1200 Bandit then check the insurance. It is one group lower than a GSXR600, and people on here have got those insured for well under £1k having just passed their tests.

The noise is likely to be the valves rather than the bores. If the bores / pistons were worn enough to make a load of noise then the oil consumption would probably be hideous. The Bandit valves are meant to be regularly adjusted (from memory, every service).

All the best

Keith (also a fan of hydraulic clutches rather than cables)
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[sickpup]

It's prob'ly not your bore but your cam chain and adjuster needing replacing.

If you want more power fit a GSX750F top end, it bolts straight on.

[dandit]