Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Engine Painting

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

JamesKMX99
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 11 Jan 2017
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:27 - 12 Jun 2017    Post subject: Engine Painting Reply with quote

Hi,

So coming to paint the motor for my cafe.

What are the steps involved in doing so? Do I need to remove all the paint, prime, respray and clear coat?

Or can I degrease, respray and reprime?

Ideally I do not want to take the engine apart

Thanks
____________________
Kawasaki!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 01:53 - 13 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to spray an engine as a whole, rather than take to to bits; saves a heck of a lot f masking, and gaskets!
1/Engine 'out'; on an upturned staka-box;
2/ plug vent holes like the crank case breather and the rocker cover breather ad ay others like radiator hose ports, cylinder head inlet ports and exhaust ports. (Make sure you plug holes with stuff you can get back out after, and doesn't get in the way of what you want to pant!
3/ pressure wash; degrease; (Cheap big box bio washing powder is great and cheap degreasant!) pressure wash; strip with nitromors! Pressure wash again! More big box bio to be sure to be rid of grease.
Apply more nitromors.. more pressure washing.. you get the picture!
4/ When you have the motor good and clean and stripped back to bare alli..... wipe over with white vinegar to 'etch' the metal and get a good key for paint.... allow to dry
5/ chuck preffered brew of high temperature pat at the motor, from an aerosol in THIN coats... leave each to dry.. buld up coats. YES straight on the metal!
6/ HT paint usually needs to be got to operating temperature to cure, and some xan stink bludy awful o first ru of the engine, whilst cooler parts of the motor, like clutch cover may ot actually get hot enough t properly cure pait, so I will usually do a force cure, using electric pant stripper gun, to get the engine casing and paint to the curing temp, all over, whlst its still on the staka-box... whe the motor starts to sag, cos the stakka-box is getting a bit warm... good hit the motor has bee farly well 'cured' Wink

I do NOT prime engines; It's not really helpful, and can act as an isulator to help Keep heat the engine, rather than let it out.

Which grade of HT paint you use can be a bit of a conundrum, and depends on the engine. Water-cooled engines shouldn't really get much over 88Degres C the regulated temp on the thermostat; you could i theory use a half decent two-pack panel paint as for car doors etc on them; air-cooled engines dont have a water-jacket they do tend to get pretty hot, and probably do need a dedcated HT paint; but ot necesserily VHT or very hgh temp paint sold to spray exhaust headers and such with, that d get incredibly hot! On a cylinder barel that stuff will probably never get ht enough to cure even if you hit t with a blow-torch!

On a water-cooled engine, I have had good results with cheap silver or black 'wheel-paint' itended to touch up manky rims. It's not partcularly heat resistant, but ntended to withstand the local heat from brakes, tends to be OK.

On air-cooled engines, for similar low rent 'blow-over' DIY Store BBQ paint is reasoable for a freshen up; may be a little between matt and silk in finish, and often doesn't last astoundingly, but t is cheap.

For a more pukka finish on ar-cooled motors I have always found PJ1 'porcelain' finsh for air-cooled motors, teds to give a close match to most black factory finshes, and looks pretty god and lasts pretty well.

I was recomended an alternatve a while back, when had a supply issue with euro-labeling! I cant remember which one it was; PJ1's main rival! Some-one will no-doubt remind me! Seems to give better coverage and more even finsh, but decidely 'matt' and not been on long enough to comment on long term durabilty.

But as all paint-work, quality of finish starts in the prep, and making the motor as clean as you can before you start.

Here's the air-cooled Seve-Fifty engne, in PJ1 during coat-builds.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/10441271_815344398490479_1102821816716678738_n.jpg?oh=14f1bad141cdbddd82888819884a0da0&oe=59E00A3E
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

MCN
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Jul 2015
Karma :

PostPosted: 01:54 - 13 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

***Deleted Puny Post***
____________________
Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

terrytibbs
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 01 Jun 2017
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:15 - 14 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
3/ pressure wash; degrease; (Cheap big box bio washing powder is great and cheap degreasant!) pressure wash; strip with nitromors! Pressure wash again! More big box bio to be sure to be rid of grease.


Your advising people to pressure wash engines, do you understand just what a bad idea this is? Oh and £10 a tin gun wash thinners makes far better degreaser than Persil

Teflon-Mike wrote:
wipe over with white vinegar to 'etch' the metal and get a good[qu key for paint


LOL what? white vinegar will do absolutely nothing to the paint process one way or the other, have you been wearing a mask while painting all these engines, few brain cells gone walkies?

Teflon-Mike wrote:
chuck preffered brew of high temperature pat at the motor, from an aerosol in THIN coats... leave each to dry.. buld up coats. YES straight on the metal!


VHT is only needed on the cooling fins of air cooled motors, crank cases are fine with either 2k, water based or presumably celly but personally never tried celly on cases


Teflon-Mike wrote:
I do NOT prime engines; It's not really helpful, and can act as an isulator to help Keep heat the engine, rather than let it out.


If you dont prime ally before painting with either acid etch primer or epoxy primer paint will flake off, end of.

Teflon-Mike wrote:

'blow-over' DIY Store BBQ paint is reasoable

For a more pukka finish on ar-cooled motors I have always found PJ1 'porcelain' finsh .. and looks pretty god and lasts pretty well.


Shock horror a product designed for primarily for auto use is better than stuff you give your BBQ a tart up with

In short your talking out of your arse, again
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:40 - 15 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see much of a problem with pressure washing engines so long as all the holes are plugged and you keep away from the sensors.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:00 - 15 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've pressure washed all my bikes, the only trouble I had was with water getting into an alarm on one. The alram now lives in a carrier bag.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

JamesKMX99
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 11 Jan 2017
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:30 - 15 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I followed his guide and the engine looks pretty sweet. Did not pressure wash as my outside tap is broken, just a lot of scrubbing to get grease and dirt off!
____________________
Kawasaki!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 8 years, 199 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.11 Sec - Server Load: 0.69 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 59.36 Kb