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Kymco CK1 idle issues

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KymcoRider99
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Joined: 16 Jun 2017
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 16 Jun 2017    Post subject: Kymco CK1 idle issues Reply with quote

Hi I have a Kymco CK1 125cc 4 stroke motorcycle that has been having some issues with idling and starting. I have removed and cleaned the carb but the problems are still happening. For example the bike will stall when I am slowing down at a junction or the revs will go really high even with the smallest throttle pull. I have tried to adjust the air fuel mixture screw but as I don't know the factory setting I haven't been able to get it right. Please help I don't want to take it to the garage as I don't have that much money.
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jaffa90
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Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 16 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the fuel level in the carb is varying, does it have a vacuum operated fuel tap or pump?
When you checked / cleaned the carb did you check the needle valve for closing ?
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Teflon-Mike
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 17 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

First up do you have a work-hop manual for the thing?
WHY on earth have you started tinkering with the carburetor; THE most intricate bit of mechanics on the bike?
Yeah.. its what every one says to do... but its also where so many make more problems than they solve.... did you use new gaskets when you put it back together and onto the bike? Did you set the float height to the level specced in the work-shop manual?
You don't kow what the pilot air-screw settings should be WHY on earth are you fiddling with them?

Starting at the top; if a bike is hard to start; frst thing to check is the state of the spark plug.

Next is to go through the basis routine service items, like checking the valve clearances, manually adjusting the cam-chain tension; changing the oil; cleaning the air-filter; and putting in fresh petrol.

THEN checking for obvious issues like, fuel flow from the tank hose, or water contamination from condensation in the tank, or crud clogging the gauze filter in the fuel tap....

You don't dive straight into THE most intricate bit of the engine with a screwdriver, BLIND, and hope to find something 'obvious' you can 'Fix'!!!

If you are on a budget and cant afford paid mechanics to do your maintenance and repairs for you; then you need to learn to DIY...

This starts with the workshop manual, not google and U-tube tutorials; to get the real data and instrctions; also begs some tools, some often probably specialist ones, like tappet adjusors as well as good feeler guages, not just petrol station and pound shop screwdrivers and push-bike spaners... none of which is costless, and has to be factored against what you might save paying a pro.

BUT, the unfortunate here and now is; having pulled the carb blindly, you probably need re-visit that, with the book, and make sure you have done the job properly; then put it back on, where necessary with new gaskets; THEN do all the basic service items you aught to have done to start with, THEN see if you still have a 'problem'.

Very Very good chance that all that the bike needed was a basic service, t likely has never had! And doing that, your problems will go away;

But, we don't have the bike in front of us to poke and prod, we ant see what you or any previous owner has done to it either by way of maintenance, repairs or likely dubious 'mods' to try and enhance performance... you do. We cant fault find for you by voodoo... so start with a work-shop manual, and work fro there, and STOP stabbing wildly at it, in vain hope, likely making problems for yourself.

Add on Ed:-
KymcoRider99 wrote:
For example the bike will stall when I am slowing down at a junction or the revs will go really high even with the smallest throttle pull.

If you are banging down gears for a junction, then revs will rse, and possbly a lot dependng how many gears yo crash down; respectve of what you do wth the throttle.

Very common Newby error is to short shift, and goup too many gears at far to slow a speed, and have to come back down all of them in a hurry slowng for junctions; this is quite likely no fault of the bke, but the rider.

Could also be that the throttle slide is stickig, which if you have re-assembled it wrong, or a PO has, could be stucking, or that the throttle cable is not properly notched in the adjuster, stoppig the slide travel all the way to 'rest'... aga, symptoms of messng with the carb when probably not needed.

Could also be fuel surge from incorrectly re-assembled or badly adjusted float height; again due to similar fiddle-fingers.

See above advice; start at the top; get the book, re-do what you have done, and make sure you do it properly with new gaskets so everything that should seal does; do a basic sercice; make sure all other anticipated variables are eliminated, like tappet clerances, cam-chain tension, and a knackered old spark plug; see what's what when you have base-lined it to what the book says it should be.

And if you are a fresh new rider, DONT leap to blame the bike for something that at this ponit quite probably is something you are doing wrong, like over-shifting gears, rather than the bike isn't doing right.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 01:07 - 17 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

vac tap
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