High Mileage VFR800 VTech. Should I buy?

[Louie7Oaks]

Hi all.
I have the opportunity to buy a VFR800Vtech with full Honda panniers and top box. £1500, but the problem is it's done 61K. It looks to be in good nick, but I want to know firstly if it's worth buying with this mileage, and what should I be looking out for on it?
It's a 2003 model with full service history and only 2 owners. Current owner has had bike for 13 years.
Thanks for any help.

[ThatDippyTwat]

Is it in bright primary colours?

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vtech&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwip64i51ZPbAhWK-6QKHe-ZDuUQ_AUICygC&biw=1600&bih=1083

VTEC is an acronym for Honda's variable valve timing, not Vtech, the name of a kids toy company.

On topic - They'll do 150K without issue *if looked after*. Worry more about how it's been kept than what's on the clock. I'd rather buy one at 80K with decent service than 30K with a cluless chimp looking after it.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[c_dug]

The cost of having the valves checked and adjusted is eye watering (something like £800 if I remember correctly). Just bear it in mind and check when they're due next. It isn't an easy DIY job either.

I had a 2007 model for a year or so. It was actually a very good bike in general, but something about it never really grabbed me. On paper the 1999 FZS600 Fazer I replaced it with should have been a much worse bike in pretty much every way, and yet I enjoyed the Fazer way more. That's all personal choice obviously.

Last thing that comes to mind is that it's a thirsty bike, particularly around town.i can't remember the exact figures now but it got something like 28mpg on my commute, where the Fazer would be getting 45-50mpg regularly, and closer to 60mpg when a dawdled.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[doggone]

For that bike it isn't particularly high miles, and price is low enough.
With full service history and one owner for many years you won't find much better.
The sheer age of it means niggly problems are likely to start cropping up.

[kgm]

Valve checks are quoted as every 16k but most people skip the early ones. Bt that mileage they should have been checked a couple of times at least. I was just quoted 660 for the 16k service on mine. No chance. That was for a full service rather than just the valve checks though so I'll do the rest myself as usual. Mine is the crossrunner and I haven't been able to find the valve specs yet, and I've only just bought it, otherwise I'd do them myself. It's not impossible to DIY but it's a time consuming pain, hence why it's expensive.

Riding wise I'm quite enjoying it. Handles great and the engine has really grown on me.

It is pretty thirsty, only measured one tank on a run of 150 miles so far, two up. It did about 46mpg. Big tank though so doesn't really bother me.

[B0ndy]

There's a lot of people on youtube (particularly Americans) claiming they've never had their valve checks on their VFR and have reached over 100k, bullshit or not - those VFRs will go on for many miles, I personally wouldn't be put of by 61k on one.
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CBF 125 -> CB400SF -> GSX600F -> ZX6R (G1) -> GSXR1000 K4 -> ZX6R (B1H Stunt bike) -> VFR800 -> R1 5PW -> Sprint 1050 -> Fireblade 929 -> ZX10R C2H -> GSXR1000 K3

[gbrand42]

What they all said ^

61k is nothing as long as you have some proof it's had its oil changes regularly. Great engine.
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Yamaha RD50M, Honda C90, Yamaha RS100, Yamaha RD125LC, Honda XL125 V9 Varadero, Honda NT700VA, Honda VFR800X, Honda CRF1000L, Honda ST1300 Pan European

[barrkel]

I wouldn't be put off by 61k. There was 45k on my 2005 model when I bought it, and 75k when I sold it - there were never any mechanical problems with the engine. Gear change might have been getting a little bit notchier over time, that's about it. Have the swingarm / linkage bearings checked - mine were developing a bit of play when I sold.

I did end up replacing the reg/rec and having the stator rewound a couple of times, and and several connectors corroded / shorted out and needed bypasses. So I'd consider the condition: if it's been used for commuting, it'll likely see more electrical troubles than if the mileage was motorways. And even then you may still get electrical issues.

A very nice bike for sporty touring. Quite heavy, but that also means a bunch of inertia to keep the bike stable while the suspension does the hard work - sticks to a line on bumpy corners where other bikes would skip out, or throw a wobbly. Very stable at 140+ mph with a bunch of luggage on autobahn too.
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Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
Best road ever ridden: www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MhNxUEYtQ

[ADSrox0r]

61k is pretty much 'nicely broken in' for a VFR.

The valve check is expensive but as has already been stated, in most cases not needed. Mine has 35k on it and it's never been done and gives me no reason to feel it needs it.

What I will say is that a 2003 is what is called the 'A' model VFR VTEC. The 'B' model was a revised version that came out in 2006 which solved a few problems, mainly to do with the fuelling and VTEC transition. At low speed the 'A' version was a bit of a herky jerky pig that could be quite unpleasant and the 'on-off' VTEC transition at 6k rpm was a bit too binary. If you're lucky, it may already have a Power Commander fitted which does iron out these issues but just be aware of it. The PAIR valve can be disabled too which helps to smooth out the low end snatch.

Watch out for electrics, if it has an original reg/rec fitted they're pretty much made of Dairylea and WILL go pop at the most inopportune moments. Easily resolved with a mosfet upgrade though. They also have a habit of chewing stators (mine's been through three, although one was an Electrex whch was my own fault for buying a wanky cheap brand)
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[Louie7Oaks]

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated.

[EazyDuz]

Why are the valves on these bikes seemingly harder and more expensive to do compared to other bikes? Isnt it something you can do in your garage over a couple of days?
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To shreds you say? Tss tss tss

[stevo as b4]

Try just taking off a set of carbs on a VFR and you'll be able to answer your own question.

Two heads, tightly packed into the frame and with poor access/lots of parts to remove for access. Not at all like taking the tank off an IL4 and quickly Removing the cam cover with plenty of access to all the fasteners.

[kgm]

It's more a case of time consuming and awkward rather than technically difficult (though it is a little more complicated than normal, plus more gaskets, etc.) so that adds cost. Recent quote for valves only was about £430 + shims if required.

[ADSrox0r]

Valve check is a pain due to needing the 'Special Honda Tools' for the VTEC buckets and can't be done without them. And guess what, those special tools cost a bomb.

One of the VFR forums has a loaner kit for trusted paid members that does the rounds .

So all in all, yes it is a DIY-able job with the kit but as already stated getting the VTEC shims out is a big job that requires a lot of time and patience and a hell of a lot of step by step manual reading. On just about any other bike doing your shims is a nice little sunny afternoon job. On a VFR VTEC, it's a couple of days slog.....only to find they weren't out of spec.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30