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Todays conundrum.

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leolion
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Todays conundrum. Reply with quote

AND BEFORE ANYONE STARTS I AM RIDING THE BLOODY THING I ALREADY HAVE !! ( even managed a down change throttle blip yesterday after two yrs of trying anyway)

Today's question

on AVERAGE which is the cheaper way to own and run a decent sized (600-1200) motorcycle, and im aware of the variables wednesday or friday bikes, depreciation of different models but on AVERAGE

A, buy at three years old, maintain and run till it dies of old age
B. buy at 7 years old, maintain and run till it dies
C. buy at 5 years old but change it every two years
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back away from the spreadsheets...
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Islander
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Shaggy said.

Find bike you like/want, make sure it actually works for you ergonomically, inspect bike for problems. If all ok, buy bike and ride it.

Keep as long as you want and maintain regularly. Ride it even more.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

On average, you should do A + B + C because only then will you be happy.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Re: Todays conundrum. Reply with quote

leolion wrote:
AND BEFORE ANYONE STARTS I AM RIDING THE BLOODY THING I ALREADY HAVE !!



Whats the prize for the right answer then Rolling Eyes

TBH, it's all about lemons.... Laughing
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flearider
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

42
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy new. Mug it off @ 3yrs old.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP is obviously a daily commuter, yet fails to mention this in post which erm is kinda relevant/important no?

OP are you riding in a city congestion charge area and thus need an ULEZ bike? If so it answers your questions.

If not, then you have a ton of options tbh. Do you have any realistic back up transport solutions to work like bus/train/car/cycle? If so you could pick anything really as long as it's not too hard to keep on the road from a spares availability angle.

I don't know your commute or what type of roads you have to use, or what cc you need and style or layout of bike is comfortable for you ergonomically etc.

Just guessing though I'd pick one of the following options personally if I had to go back to commuting.

1, A Chinese 125 brand new for under £2200. (wouldn't pay more for a new one as you can get a new KTM for under 3k).
I'd plan to make it last 3years and if you can more than that out of it then it's virtually free biking.

2, I'd pick up a used Japanese bike from around 99-09 that's in good condition and been looked after but possibly not had much use I.e a garage Queen or OAP's tourer. Ideally something that is ubiquitous and cheap like a Yamaha Diversion 600 or Bandit or CB500 etc. All pretty basic older solid bikes that'd Shrug off the miles and abuse if you look after them cosmetically and stop them getting scabby and rotten.

I certainly wouldn't pick a bike I'd actually love to own or ride, and not a silly bike like a monster naked beast with the power to annihilate all comers, or a tidy clean sports bike, or a classic two stroke or a silly fat adventure bike.

It'd be more ride to live than the other way round.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a bike. When you are bored with it, it's irrevokably broken or it seems to be becoming too much hassle to keep repairing/servicing. Get another one.

I never pay more than £2k for a bike. They are never worth more than a few hundred when I come to sell them because they are fucked.

If you want to be really cost effective. When it gets too worn/difficult to repair. Buy another one the same but with lower mileage and keep the old one for spares.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 28 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're overthinking it, and only you know what's right for you at the time.

I've had almost new bikes, a couple of years old, custom built them myself, and at the moment I have 2 fairly old, but reliable, bikes. Never had a new one mind you, but I just can't bring myself to eat the depreciation.

I could have any of the above in the future, depends on what I want, what bikes and deals are around.

Just get what makes sense for you when you are looking to buy.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 29 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The big expenses that we all try to forget or ignore are consumable and OEM parts. So it is cheaper to own a bike which is popular (a lot more pattern parts available) and easy on its consumables, or has fewer of them (single front disc instead of twin).

Age is only a factor at around 15 years+, when bits start to wear out that may not be available as a pattern part, or require a lot of work to get to the bit that needs fixing (various chassis bushes and bearings).

There is no hard and fast rule though. You could very easily buy a one owner, low mileage, 3 year old CBF500 and end up with a lemon.

Mile for mile, I know it costs less to run my middling 1 year old family hatchback than it does to run my middling middleweight bike. If I really cared what my bike cost me to run, I wouldn't have a bike.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 29 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Admit that you aren't really intae biking.
Forget bike engine bikes.
Buy a 125 and be happy.

And all what The Shaggy D.A. sez too.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 09:24 - 29 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy on condition with cash. That way if you crash it you don't have to keep making payments.

Biking is not an investment. If you start treating it as such you can't really ride the bikes.
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inline4
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Joined: 20 May 2015
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 29 May 2019    Post subject: Re: Todays conundrum. Reply with quote

leolion wrote:
AND BEFORE ANYONE STARTS I AM RIDING THE BLOODY THING I ALREADY HAVE !! ( even managed a down change throttle blip yesterday after two yrs of trying anyway)

Today's question

on AVERAGE which is the cheaper way to own and run a decent sized (600-1200) motorcycle, and im aware of the variables wednesday or friday bikes, depreciation of different models but on AVERAGE

A, buy at three years old, maintain and run till it dies of old age
B. buy at 7 years old, maintain and run till it dies
C. buy at 5 years old but change it every two years


I used to think like this but now I just buy new if on 0% finance or near new if not and use until the bike dies of old age or I get bored!

As someone else said, its not an investment. For me (and i assume for plenty of other people) a motorcycle is for commuting, touring and fun.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
...

If you want to be really cost effective. When it gets too worn/difficult to repair. Buy another one the same but with lower mileage and keep the old one for spares.


This is what i do and have done for a few years.
It does mean you need a lot of room to store these spares/spare bikes Laughing
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leolion
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Joined: 14 Feb 2019
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

pompousporcupine wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
...

If you want to be really cost effective. When it gets too worn/difficult to repair. Buy another one the same but with lower mileage and keep the old one for spares.


This is what i do and have done for a few years.
It does mean you need a lot of room to store these spares/spare bikes Laughing


i like this idea, will do that when the MT gets older.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 16:43 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

leolion wrote:
i like this idea, will do that when the MT gets older.


With a bike you don't really get on with??? Confused Confused Confused

JFRI.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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leolion
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
leolion wrote:
i like this idea, will do that when the MT gets older.


With a bike you don't really get on with??? Confused Confused Confused

JFRI.


ive been out everyday this week on him and we're getting there, i think a screen might help.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

leolion wrote:


ive been out everyday this week on him and we're getting there


That's the spirit! You may redeem yourself yet Smile Except...IT!

Are you beginning to like, or at least understand, the bike any more?
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leolion
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 31 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip YFPOS wrote:
leolion wrote:


ive been out everyday this week on him and we're getting there


That's the spirit! You may redeem yourself yet Smile Except...IT!

Are you beginning to like, or at least understand, the bike any more?


depends on the day if im honest, i stoopidly brought a naked without thinking what it would be like on a less than perfect day!
BUT on a good day im getting there, ive finally learnt to down blip which helps, and ive stopped riding it like the cbr, i dont try and make it turn quicker than it wants i kinda cruise now and gently put my weight on the side i want to turn,all that catches me out is sharp corners whilst also going steeply downhill(i nearly ran out of road in the peaks) but at least im looking forward to trying again.
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Kentol750
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 31 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not look for a reputable school that's local to you and pay for an hours instruction?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 31 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
The big expenses that we all try to forget or ignore are consumable and OEM parts. So it is cheaper to own a bike which is popular (a lot more pattern parts available) and easy on its consumables, or has fewer of them (single front disc instead of twin).

Age is only a factor at around 15 years+, when bits start to wear out that may not be available as a pattern part, or require a lot of work to get to the bit that needs fixing (various chassis bushes and bearings).

There is no hard and fast rule though. You could very easily buy a one owner, low mileage, 3 year old CBF500 and end up with a lemon.

Mile for mile, I know it costs less to run my middling 1 year old family hatchback than it does to run my middling middleweight bike. If I really cared what my bike cost me to run, I wouldn't have a bike.


This is the key, bikes aren't very cheap to run, assuming you want to do decent annual mileages.

Being able to do all your own maintenance mitigates some of the costs, but if you have to pay somebody else to look after it, forget about saving money.

For example, my commute is about 10Kpa:

One oil and filter change in the car, three for the bike (bike takes a bit less oil, same cost for a filter)

Set of tyres for the car every three years (about £200) set of tyres for the bike every year, if I really push them to the limit and beyond (about £100)

If I need brakes, the costs are about the same for pads (but the bike needs them more often) but discs for the car can be had for around 20 quid a corner, for the bike it's 80 quid each end (single disc on the front) and again it needs them more often.

I could continue, but you can see where this is going and this is for a bike that has a fairly healthy pattern parts supply.

I do score on fuel when I use the bike, also, because I commute into a heavy traffic area, I get to stay in bed a bit longer (which as somebody who is getting old and tired, means something to me Smile ) but it only just about works for me because I can do pretty much everything myself.
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