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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well whatever you call the rubber bit between the metal valve stems and the actual wheel...

With closer examination I could see they'd perished but hard to notice unless pointed out.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
Well whatever you call the rubber bit between the metal valve stems and the actual wheel...

With closer examination I could see they'd perished but hard to notice unless pointed out.


Yes I know that now as above, I am gladd you gotor will get yout MOT, I do kmnot know whqatthart is called ir mighr well be wehat the MOT man called it but I tjjhought oit was some engine thoinh and wondered as I saif anyway bed calls pip pip and well done for it/.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 06:15 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
kmnot know whqatthart is called ir mighr well be wehat the MOT man called it but I tjjhought oit was some engine thoinh


my thoughts entirely
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:35 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm soo confused!!

Valve stems - inner tubes??
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grr666
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:

I can see the appeal of these scooters to kids: very easy to work on.

Laughing Laughing Laughing
I bought a new spark plug for my scooter last week. I gave up looking for where it went after 10 minutes. I'm just
going to just book it in for someone else to get their hands dirty. I'm not that interested in saving a few pennies, I'd rather
save myself the headache and the skinned knuckles tbh. They can give it an oil change while they are at it.
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 07 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well once you have the plastic covers off it's trivial...

Regardless of my mangling of tyre terminology when I get the wheels back it'll get through the MoT.

Then what Thinking

I have a new carb and "racing CDI" in the parts bin already so I'm going to see how much difference either or both of those make, for a larf.

A funky exhaust is like 20, a pod filter about 5, jet kit 2, "performance" variator 10, 47mm barrel 25... and so on. All the parts cost fuck all and a "sleeper" build is always fun.

However, scooters have a bit of a bad rap at the moment and somehow I don't think all the enjoyment of tinkering is going to offset how horrible actually riding a scooter is.

Still kicking myself that I passed up a DT175 for a hundred notes Sad
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 16 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got the wheels back. Cost 15 inc VAT for parts and labour, yay!

Took me a while to wrestle the back wheel on. Then I thought "maybe easier if I slacken off the drum brake cable..." doh!

What other MOT failures...

New fuel filter, swapped the lines too:

https://i.imgur.com/5fqYBhf.jpg?1

Iffy rear brake switch... just bought a new one as this looked pretty corroded:

https://i.imgur.com/NowIZ43.jpg?1

Then I went to start it up...

Weird! Hard to start and huh, indicators make the engine cut out. What the actual fuck?!

When you have lots of weird shit happening like, hey! pulling the rear brake makes the engine cut out without the switch connected. You guessed it: earthing issue.

This probably didn't help:

https://i.imgur.com/FIgrvcp.jpg?1

I would imagine that when I dropped the rear wheel out that the engine dropped and yanked this earth strap out. Doh! Part 2... The Revenge Very Happy

New ring crimped on and obviously everything is now fine.

Now I just have to wait till it's dark to check the headlamp aim. Neighbours will be impressed Sad

Assuming it sails through the MoT retest I then have some parts to toy about with:

New carb
"Racing" CDI
72cc "Big Bore" kit
Pod air filter
Jet kit
New exhaust

"Feck! How much did that lot cost you?!" about 70 Shocked

Not exactly the most exciting vehicle to ride but if you want to practice some wrenching for bugger all, great fun!
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nutty_nick
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 17 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks a tidy little budget resto mate. .
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 18 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gave up trying to align the lamps last night. By the time it was dark enough to see them on the wall (without revving the engine to get more amps) it was too dark to see what I was doing Sad Also doesn't help that my front garden's on the piss.

Going to "borrow" my father-in-law's garage tomorrow night - at least that's level!
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 18 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yay! Much easier with the dark end of the garage Smile

Fingers crossed for tomorrow!
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 15:31 - 19 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Err.... yeah, so I got it through the MoT eventually. Like this:

https://i.imgur.com/9Tvfjxa.jpg?1
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 20 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will probably start modding in earnest this weekend. In the meantime I'd done a test ride commuting to work.

Mostly fine on the way in. Strava says it got up to 32mph on the flat - a bit faster than it's meant to go but not by much. I did have a point where it lost a bit of power and pissing about with the throttle kept the engine going.

However, just nipped down the road to the bank this lunchtime and it has some "issues." Coming to a stop it's 50/50 that the engine keeps going but then the idle and mixture screws have only be roughly set. The power loss at random moments got a bit worse. I'm wondering if it's electrics related: when it's having a wobble the fuel gauge needle starts moving up and down as you give it some revs. When the engine's running smooth the needle is static. It "feels" like a basic vacuum lock or dirty carb issue but I can't see why the fuel needle would start waving at me!

When/if I get home with it I'll have a rove about with a multimeter in my pocket and see what's going on Smile
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 22 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

And now the fun begins...

First step, get the valve cover off. Last time I had anything this black Jim Davidson could still get mileage out of such jokes:

https://i.imgur.com/6EYxkEx.jpg?1

At this point I had to disconnect the rear suspension arm and let the engine drop down as there wasn't enough clearance to get the head and barrel past the frame.

Old barrel and piston:

https://i.imgur.com/STZyMaa.jpg?1

Be careful with the timing chain, don't want it dropping down to the bottom!

Closer look at the old barrel:

https://i.imgur.com/K931YvP.jpg?1

Handy to take pictures at key stages to see where things like the little locating sleeve thingies go over the main bolts at the various levels of the engine.

The old piston:

https://i.imgur.com/1Xtm6t7.jpg?1

And removed:

https://i.imgur.com/Qyypa3t.jpg?1

Cam looks pretty good:

https://i.imgur.com/ABJ9l7q.jpg?2

So far all the removed parts look pretty good. Carbon build up where one would expect but all the moving surfaces are smooth. Although this scooter is 6 years+ it's only actually done 4000 km.

I decided I may as well change out the valve oil seals, good job I did. A closer look at the valves before dismantling, can you see it?

https://i.imgur.com/23dyUWJ.jpg?1

Time to get the new parts out!

Gapped and fitted the piston rings which isn't too bad a job if you go at it with care. The piston spring thingies that keep it on the rod are a bit of a pain with needle nose pliers but it's pretty obvious when they in correctly.

Clean up some of the old surfaces of their gasket remnants and then fitted the new barrel and piston:

https://i.imgur.com/fs92zGA.jpg?1

Nice! There's an obvious "IN" mark on the piston for orientation Smile

Head back on:

https://i.imgur.com/uDRXTv9.jpg?1

Checking the timing mark:

https://i.imgur.com/AdWQaL2.jpg?1

Cam gear aligned perfectly on the first attempt, yay! me Smile

https://i.imgur.com/bHxY5hP.jpg?1

Cam reinstalled:

https://i.imgur.com/3vuGrxY.jpg?1

Couldn't afford a proper torque wrench so minimum wage staff to the rescue:

https://i.imgur.com/eU1hvee.jpg?1

Emissions delete (a pipe fed back to the airbox, also deleted)

https://i.imgur.com/feataCx.jpg?1

New carb with superfluous pod filter (natch)

https://i.imgur.com/fsRxWlo.jpg?1

I finished up about there. I still have to cable tie a few bits, get the seat back on and get the fan cover back on (which means taking off the exhaust and inlet manifolds again but whatever...)

Will it start?

I turned it over a few times without the spark plug. First with the kicker and then with the motor just to get some oil cycling.

Spark plug back in and yay! started pretty much straight away Very Happy (Took a few turns to fill up the carb, obs.)

Very satisfying day's work, time for beer!

Still to do:

The spark plug looked so-so, I ordered a new one. I did get a 20 exhaust but the pipe is too short. I've ordered just the correct pipe (10 ouch!) and will reuse the silencer from the first kit.

Almost forgot, I also fitted the "racing" CDI but I dunno about this. From the analyses I've seen it pisses about with the timing in such a way that, while there is a tiny overall performance gain, you sacrifice the needed retardation at initial turn over making starting a pain. Still, you only need to do that once ofc Smile

A/F mix screw has just been dicked about TBH, I'll need to go for a burn with the new exhaust to see if it needs tweaking (or maybe up-jetting.) Previous top speed was 32mph but it was a bit rough so either lacking air or fuel before.

Will get it running tomorrow, if I can get 40mph out of it I'll be over the moon Very Happy
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 22 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other thing: there's a crank case breather pipe that went to the old air box. For now I've routed it down to follow the carb drain.

Any better suggestions?
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the bike back together today. And this will come as a shock to absolutely no one: the engine runs a tad lean Laughing

I must have been having a senior moment as the jet kit I got from China is for the carb on the Superlight which is nice... apart from the fact I have the EFI version, doh!

I have a spare stock jet from the old carb and the hole at the moment is 0.8mm (edit: it's actually an "84") which is as small as the smallest drill bit I have. The next size up I have is 1.2mm so I'm wondering whether just to drill it out and see what happens...

Won't bother until the new exhaust piece turns up. In the mean time I'm going to see what I can do about the yellowing of the headlamps and at the same time swap the bulbs over with LEDs (I have some left over from the Superlight.)

<addendum> Apparently the tiny files I use for cutting guitar nut string slots are also used for cleaning up jets!
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some findings: shaving down jets is harder than it looks! Attempt 1: old jet I went too far, too rich. Attempt 2: new jet not far enough and still lean Sad

Fcuk it, I'll order some jets. Starting point was 84 so I'll get 86/88/90 and that should do the trick.

Finding number two: the "racing" CDI is a piece of shit. Shocking news I think you'll agree Wink I went up and down the main road and got it up to 37mph (even though the mixture was wrong) and then it never started again Sad Popped the stock one on: started first time. FFS... that's like 4 or 5 quid wasted!

When I did have it running it felt a lot better. Can't see how as the brakes, tyres and suspension are all the same. Maybe just the CVT being more responsive with a tad more power nipping at its heels?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
Some findings: shaving down jets is harder than it looks! Attempt 1: old jet I went too far, too rich. Attempt 2: new jet not far enough and still lean Sad

Fcuk it, I'll order some jets. Starting point was 84 so I'll get 86/88/90 and that should do the trick.

Finding number two: the "racing" CDI is a piece of shit. Shocking news I think you'll agree Wink I went up and down the main road and got it up to 37mph (even though the mixture was wrong) and then it never started again Sad Popped the stock one on: started first time. FFS... that's like 4 or 5 quid wasted!

When I did have it running it felt a lot better. Can't see how as the brakes, tyres and suspension are all the same. Maybe just the CVT being more responsive with a tad more power nipping at its heels?


Once you've got the fuelling sorted, that's where you need to be spending your money, you'll get more value from that than anywhere else.
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, AFAIK the list is weights, variator, clutch, belt and final drive train...

The basic theme I'm going with is a) spending pennies on parts and b) bike looking like a piece of shit that no one would touch.

The only thing that detracts from the latter is the aftermarket silencer: they all look pretty bling from a distance (anyone fancy a rotating gattling gun muffler? no? thought not!) so I've gone with standard "carbon fibre" which is, naturally, achieved by a naff sticker. This I can quite happily drag behind my car on a bit of string to "relic" it as is so popular in the guitar industry or I might see if I can get the wrap off and maybe the bare metal is up to some distressing. Apparently urine is a great way to speed up the rusting process which seems appropriately ironic for this class of vehicle.

Regarding the former point - spending as little as possible - so far I have wasted 2 on buying the wrong jet kit, 4 on the useless "racing" CDI and 10 on the wrong exhaust downpipe.

I have bought some tools along the way but apart from the little toothed widget to undo the variator (6) none of them are specific to scooters. For example: a valve compression tool will do the job on my Superlight, should I need it, as well as a fair few cars.

And finally my modest target of taking it from the supposed 28mph top speed (actually does 32mph "restricted") to 40mph looks right on track once I get the fuel mix right and the new exhaust on.

Yes I know you get light speed out of these pieces of shit with the right tweaks but you'd stick out like a sore thumb to the plod @ 70mph for what is meant to be a moped and TBH I wouldn't feel safe on it without at least upgrading the brakes and suspension and then you're getting into silly money. (BTW the back drum brake is next to useless whereas the front disc is excellent.)
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked at the bike yesterday and thought:

If I was to spend money on this (maybe not this particular scooter but some sort of similar cheap chinesium scooter with the frame in a better state) then step 1 would be strip it right down, all the plastic trash off and just have it naked...

And then I thought, wow! if had the seat sitting almost right over the carb and then had some ape hangers, maybe some well forward footplates you could have a funky, low ride cruiser scooter!!!

I think I must have been a homosexual in a former life Thinking
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

"my modest target of taking it from the supposed 28mph top speed (actually does 32mph "restricted") to 40mph looks right on track once I get the fuel mix right and the new exhaust on"

When The Boy's Kisbee was derestricted, it was a simple wiring change as described elsewhere in these forums. Instant 40MPH, no other changes. Changing the variator weights won't make it go faster, neither will new belts etc. (although they may make it more reliable).
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 24 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm... sounds like I was aiming low. Oh well Whistle

AFAIK the variators etc. are more to do with power response than actual speed. Bit more torque starting off, getting to top speed quicker, that sort of thing?

However, dicking with gears in the final drive train would have quite an impact but is a pretty extreme mod (i.e. expensive) to do on this thing!
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 01:07 - 24 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remembered after a quick search:

https://www.pedparts.co.uk/blog/moped-tuning--rollers

Is yours a QMB139 engine (see lhs of engine near mounting bolt under front of primary drive cover)?
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 01:41 - 24 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting...

and yes, standard GY6 template, 139QMB engine.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 24 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do or have you owned anything that you haven't really wanted to fiddle with beyond routine maintenance or repair? How much money satisfying your mind and curiosity do you want to spend on a near worthless Chinese scooter?
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HardlyDavidso...
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 24 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

My granddaughter calls me "Granddad Fixit" Smile Apologies for not being a fervent "consumer" like all the other drones Rolling Eyes

I spend money proportional to the project. The Superlight cost a few quid to resurrect but it's been surprisingly reliable over the last 6 months so it turned out not to be much of a gamble at all.

The scooter being a free gets as little money spent on it as possible. The parts on are easy to come by, dirt cheap and doesn't matter too much how it turns out Smile So it ticks all the right boxes.

So far I've had a go at cleaning the carb, unseizing the CVT, rebuilding half the engine, removing valve springs and redoing valve oil seals and fixing some electrics.

6 months ago I hadn't even ridden a motorbike let alone repaired any so I'm pretty happy with the way things are going Thumbs Up
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