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ER6f Refresh

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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 12 Apr 2019    Post subject: ER6f Refresh Reply with quote

I've had my ER6f which is on a 58 plate from new.
It cost £4000 on 0% finance over 3 years and has cost a minimal amount to keep running except for when a snapped chain took out the engine at 45k, £450 later it was sorted.
It's had all of the servicing done by me except the first service, has been through about 14+ sets of tyres and is still going strong but it has got old and is suffering from worn suspension, plastic fatigue and all the other little problems that effect an 11 year old bike with over 90k on the clocks.

So the plan is to service it including checking the valves. Fit a new rear disc, chain and sprockets, replace any bodywork that needs it, new heated grips, stop the pressure loss from the rear wheel which is likely corrosion on the bead seat and the biggest thing will be to rebuild the suspension.

I've got PD valves on order and have just received a Hyperpro Streetbox which includes new fork springs and fluid and a new rear shock.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190412_092657_resized.jpg

I think I have a set of SV650 fork tops somewhere that should fit so will give adjustable front preload as well.

I might also fit a set of Hel brake lines which seem to have gone up 50% in price in the last few years so will have to have a word with a mate in the trade about them.

Now the question some will be asking is why spend upwards of £1000 on an old commuter and the answer is it is a known quantity. I could buy another ER6 or something else etc for a few thousand pounds but it will have pretty much all the same problems as this one so as I can't replace it with a sorted bike for £1000 it's time to rebuild.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 13 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it costs you another £4k for another 10years life then that would still be a great bargain IMO.

I've spent around £4000 on my Kawasaki KMX 125, so it's still not quite at the point I could buy a new Japanese 125 trail bike if I was trying to justify it, and it's not enough to buy a top end European 125 by another £3000 so it's worth another grand at least of my cash.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 17 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had some bits turn up today. Fork bushes, fork dust seals, PD valves and a shock cover.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190417_130313_1555502753524_resized.jpg

The forks were rebiult about 30k ago so they need doing again even though they're not leaking.
As usual I always fit new bushes with new seals and am happy to use pattern bushes. I tend to use OEM seals if i'm not in a rush but would also be happy to use pattern seals as long as new bushes are also fitted.

The shock cover is neoprene so reasonably waterproof although obviously there are holes at each end. It biggest contribution will be to hide the rear shock so it doesn't get stolen as its on the side of the bike position it is extremely easy to remove.

So one shock cover

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190417_125355_1555502756670_resized.jpg

Add one expensive, shiney hyperpro rear shock

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190417_125320_1555502757978_resized.jpg

Mix together and get a non descript rear shock.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190417_125620_1555502755417_resized.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 18 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I should post a picture of the bike.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190417_172807_1555579844349_resized.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 18 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

New tyre valves which will hopefully fit ok.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20190418-wa0003.jpeg
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 18 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mate suggests getting an extra inlet cam and fitting it in place of the exhaust cam for instant preformance gains on those motors.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 21 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
My mate suggests getting an extra inlet cam and fitting it in place of the exhaust cam for instant preformance gains on those motors.


I've looked into this and it seems this applies to the engine variant used in the Versys not the ER6.
The Exhaust cam on the ER6 is the same as the Inlet cam on the Versys so even better is to fit the Versys Inlet in the exhaust and the ER6 inlet in the Versys inlet for more power whilst retaing rideability.
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ride_to_die
Crazy Courier



Joined: 13 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 22 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
New tyre valves which will hopefully fit ok.



Where from and how much please?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 22 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ride_to_die wrote:
Where from and how much please?


From here 'Clicky'.
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BenR
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 23 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't look too bad for 90000miles.
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Tdibs
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 16 Jan 2015
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 23 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it drinking much oil?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 24 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdibs wrote:
Is it drinking much oil?


Not really no but then the engine only has about 55k on it.
These do use oil due to running extemely hot and holding minimal amounts of oil, just under 2 litres iirc so there is little volume for the heat to disipate through the oil. With this in mind they use very little oil on motorways and a noticeable amount around town.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had some time today to do some work so have taken the rear wheel off which was a bit troublesome.
It hasn't been off for a year or two so the axle had seized to the bearing spacer, damaged the threaded end with a mini Mjolnir getting it out and discovered that one of the chain adjuster was pretty rotten.
The swingarm on the early ER6 gets filled with water on the right hand side, the drain hole is easily blocked so doesn't drain.
A lot of crap has come out of the swingarm so I'll give it a good clean , enlarge the drainage hole and then spray it with Dinitrol to neutralise further corrosion.

This shows just how much crap came out of the swingarm...

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_151247.jpg

The rear disc needs changing which I know is a job people dread doing. Its actually really easy with the appropriate tool which is an impact driver and a mini Mjolnir.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_134055.jpg

If you use a allen key or socket it will round out the bolt head but the striking downwards forces the allen bit into the bolt stopping it rounding out. Once loose just take it out with a ratchet.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_134018.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always hed trouble with this wheel holding air so we need to clean all the crap and paint out of the bead area.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_141819.jpg

As you can see crap and aluminium powder corrosion.

The best way to clean this area is a plastic paint cleaning pad on an angle grinder.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

And this is what the bead seat looks like once cleaned up.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=102522

So this should help with the tyre bead sealing with two clean faces.
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Paddy.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are those disc bolts hammered to Torx shape?

I only ask as its the only way Pete managed to undo my very badly thread locked bolts recently and it made me wonder why they didnt come like that as standard.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Are those disc bolts hammered to Torx shape?


No they are standard 6mm Allen. Never found an allen disc bolt that I couldn't get out using an impact driver EXCEPT for ones that have been mullared by other people which take a bit more work.

Before Pete had a go had you used an impact driver or did you just use a standard allen key / socket?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 09 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wheels back together now with new rear tyre, rear sprocket

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_190650.jpg

rear disc

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_194218.jpg

and tyre valve.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190709_194210.jpg

As it will be spending most of its life around town it has also had the rear tyre filled with Puncture Safe as a get home measure.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 10 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've spent this morning doing more cleaning especially the inside of the swingarm and have decided it would be a good idea to remove the swingarm and regrease the bearings, not an easy job when you have no sidestand.
I've managed to clean a huge amount of crap from the swingarm and underneath the bike, theres still a lot there but I ran out of degreaser.

If I take the swingarm off I can find where the water is getting in and when I didnitrol the inside I can rotate it to get good coverage on all internal surfaces.

I can't take the swing arm off yet and there are things to do first. I need the new chain adjusters and rear axle so I fit the rear wheel which will lock the front sprocket so I can undo the big nut on it. Then I can cut off the chain which goes through the swingarm and pull the swing arm out while still being able to easily remove the front sprocket so it and the chain can be changed.

So for now all I can do is remove the front bodywork in preperation for the new head race bearings, new fork gaiters, PD valves and Hyperpro fork kit.
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Paddy.
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 10 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Before Pete had a go had you used an impact driver or did you just use a standard allen key / socket?


It took the biggest air gun and a ground down torx hammered in to get most of them out, the others were a smaller air gun. They weren't moving Laughing I didn't touch before hand, I was able to use a 3ft extension, stand on it and not move it at all, at which point I stopped and called Pete.
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Current ride : Suzuki GSXR1000 L0 - Suzuki SV650 track bike My biking history so far
Rogerborg wrote: Whole life care for a VTR full of quadraspazzed Darrryls and Shoniq'uas cost mad dollah.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 10 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
It took the biggest air gun and a ground down torx hammered in to get most of them out, the others were a smaller air gun. They weren't moving Laughing I didn't touch before hand, I was able to use a 3ft extension, stand on it and not move it at all, at which point I stopped and called Pete.


A windy gun in my experience sn't the appropriate tool to start with and neither is an allen socket and breaker bar, an impact driver is.
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Fisty
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 19:39 - 10 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:


A windy gun in my experience sn't the appropriate tool to start with and neither is an allen socket and breaker bar, an impact driver is.


This, with a new unworn bit.
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Paddy.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 12:14 - 11 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

All my tools are decent enough quality (Facom hex bits which I think are OK/semi decent?) rarely used (once before, on my rear disk) and clean as, kept indoors in a case.

I trust Pete. He definitely tried a multitude of things before the big boy came out. Pics were in here - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=327146

Video (still processing) is here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-uACcOtUKUk

Given it took nearly 2 hours to do this, I don't think any physical hands could have shifted them. The bike is a summer only, <200 miles since disks were fitted for the previous MOT, these were fitted for the current MOT.
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Current ride : Suzuki GSXR1000 L0 - Suzuki SV650 track bike My biking history so far
Rogerborg wrote: Whole life care for a VTR full of quadraspazzed Darrryls and Shoniq'uas cost mad dollah.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 11 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
All my tools are decent enough quality (Facom hex bits which I think are OK/semi decent?) rarely used (once before, on my rear disk) and clean as, kept indoors in a case.


Facom are some of the best tools you can buy, the impact driver you can see is a Facom one bought especially for this one single job.

An impact driver is the best tool for this job because of the way it is used, you hit it with a big heavy club hammer. The hammer strike imparts a small sideways force so as well as being hammered into the bolt head so it can't slip sideways it turns as well. An Impact gun or Allen socket doesn't do this.
The strike is also useful for breaking the threadlock bond. To make things easier you can set the ompact driver to tighten on the hammer strike, also useful just to get the bolt moving.
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Paddy.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 22:49 - 11 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed, Pete did smack the shit out of it, but it was oddly locked in there on all bolts with that red shit.
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Current ride : Suzuki GSXR1000 L0 - Suzuki SV650 track bike My biking history so far
Rogerborg wrote: Whole life care for a VTR full of quadraspazzed Darrryls and Shoniq'uas cost mad dollah.
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