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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 07:01 - 12 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Paddy. wrote:
It took the biggest air gun and a ground down torx hammered in to get most of them out, the others were a smaller air gun. They weren't moving Laughing I didn't touch before hand, I was able to use a 3ft extension, stand on it and not move it at all, at which point I stopped and called Pete.


A windy gun in my experience sn't the appropriate tool to start with and neither is an allen socket and breaker bar, an impact driver is.


The 'mechanic' who had changed the discs the first time put the bolts in with a rattle gun and so much high strength threadlock it had migrated up the bolt and locked the shoulder to the disc as well as the thread in the hole. Added to that they had chewed up some of the hex's trying to remove the bolts later. I had to put a short extension in a 1/2" drive socketed allen key to shock all of them before any of them would move. After that some came out with a Hitachi battery impact, the rest I used a heavier mains powered one. The chewed up head ones I had to swap the allen for a torx.

Anyway, they all came out where the fitter could not move a single one, and that's what counts. I have a impact driver but I haven't used it in probably 15 years.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 12 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
I have a impact driver but I haven't used it in probably 15 years.


On things like this give it a try, you may be pleasantly surprised.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 12 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had some time yesterday to strip the bodywork off.
One of the problems with ER6's is they vibrate a lot, its so bad that is wears out the bodywork tabs so that the body work resonates loudly. There was even a recall on the 2006-7 models for foam pads to be fitted between body panels so stop them rattling around.

As an example of how bad the vibration is on mine the two upper headlight mounts actually vibrated through and are held in place with zip ties.

https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190711_145035.jpg

This panel will be replaced with a new one to be ordered today along with a few other things, air filter, front sprocket washer and fork seals. One of the best things about this bike is the genuine parts are relatively cheap so this little lot only comes to 230.

I've always liked the looks of the ER6 without any bodywork, looks to me a bit like a flat tracker.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20190711-wa0015.jpeg
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 18 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had some more time yesterday so got the rear wheel back in. Unfortuantely the chain adjusters I bought from Ebay are wrong so I will need to get another set.

The fitting of the rear wheel is terrible on these. The axle goes in from the right through a brake plate into the wheel which is a bit of a night mare to line up. Most bikes that use this design have the axle go in from the |left to support he wheel while fitting the brake plate.

The swingarm pivot bolt undoes ok and rotates freely but won't come out so it most be seized to the inner bearing races which make removal extremely hard. I'll give it a try with an air hammer but I don't hold much hope, the only other option is to cut off the swingarm and replace it which will be a massive job although they are at least cheap to replace. If theres no play in the bearing I may just leave it for another year.

After some work I managed to get the front sprocket off. Kawasaki tighten these to about 130ft/lbs which is just silly. The design means they tend to seize in place so Breaker bar between swingarm and rear wheel to stop it rotating and a 3 foot breaker bar soon sorted it. The windy gun wouldn't move it so this means I needs to upgrade my Compressor.

I recently bought a Clarke VE15C150 vertical compressor which at 14cfm should run just about anything I want. It has a 3/4 outlet but I fitted a 3/8ths regulator (I had one from my old compressor) which has restricted its flow rate. I need to upgrade to a 1/2 regulator and hose, no point going any bigger due to the fitting being the same size but this will increase flow rate considerably and give more power to the windy gun and other tools.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you drill the damper rods for the PD valves, I recommend using a step drill. Neater, rounder holes.
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