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Royal Enfield Bullet 500 using oil !

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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 09:13 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Royal Enfield Bullet 500 using oil ! Reply with quote

I'm a new owner of a Bullet 500 (2006).
I'm just trying to find out if it's normal for a 500 Bullet engine to use 100-200mls of oil on a 6 hour round trip?

Before I started the trip I checked the oil level and made sure the oil was reading just above the middle of the oil dip stick. HHaving returned and parked her up over night, I started the engine and left it running on tick over for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level. ( Is this the correct method for checking the oil on a Bullet, as I don't want to end up overfilling her?).

When I checked the oil level it was barely showing on the dip stick and needed approximately 200mls to get it back to the centre of the dip stick again! There are no obvious oil leaks, the engine is tight. There is also no sign of the engine burning any oil.

Otherwise the engine appears to be running OK.
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Monkeywrenche...
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it going into the crank case breather catch tank?
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Monkeywrencher wrote:
Is it going into the crank case breather catch tank?


You will have to excuse my technical ignorance. I'm more comfortable hitting a Cheiftain or Challenger Tank engine with a large hammer than I am working on this engine.

If that is the small cylinder shaped tank where the oil breather pipes go into (behind the battery), no I've checked that and there is no oil in there. There was a small amount of white gunge, (mayonaisse consistency - bloody Germans), and that white gunge was also in one of the breather pipes ( the larger bore ), but not the other one?

As far as I'm concerned, she's running fine, I just wasn't sure if this was excessive oil use for this type of engine. Or whether it's normal and I should just get used to it and TOP UP & MOTOR ON.


Last edited by Dan Man on 12:37 - 29 Jul 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Monkeywrencher wrote:
Is it going into the crank case breather catch tank?


Apologies I must have hit the send button twice and don't know how to delete this duplicate post.


Last edited by Dan Man on 12:39 - 29 Jul 2019; edited 2 times in total
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doggone
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was in the recent hot weather it might have been something of a one off.
Just monitor it for a while?
2006 is getting on a bit even if it hasn't done a lot of miles.
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
If it was in the recent hot weather it might have been something of a one off.
Just monitor it for a while?
2006 is getting on a bit even if it hasn't done a lot of miles.


It was actually on Saturday which was most probably the wettest day of the year. I would have been more comfortable in a canoe crossing the Pennines than on my bike.

As you recommend, I will monitor the situation.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Re: Royal Enfield Bullet 500 using oil ! Reply with quote

Dan Man wrote:
I'm a new owner of a Bullet 500 (2006).
I'm just trying to find out if it's normal for a 500 Bullet engine to use 100-200mls of oil on a 6 hour round trip?

Before I started the trip I checked the oil level and made sure the oil was reading just above the middle of the oil dip stick. HHaving returned and parked her up over night, I started the engine and left it running on tick over for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level. ( Is this the correct method for checking the oil on a Bullet, as I don't want to end up overfilling her?).

When I checked the oil level it was barely showing on the dip stick and needed approximately 200mls to get it back to the centre of the dip stick again! There are no obvious oil leaks, the engine is tight. There is also no sign of the engine burning any oil.

Otherwise the engine appears to be running OK.


Make sure you are using the recommended oil.

Good quality oil can help slobbery engines.

(Although the 'We just use Mazola in our bikes' brigade will shoot that comment down in smokey flames.)

Look for Mobil/Castrol/Shell etc. NEVER SKIMP ON THE BLOOD OF AN ENGINE.

If you are RH A-Neg you wouldn't run well with Common O. (Or something Haemofilatic.)

Some auld bike engines And those Quirksome Hardly Dae-Anythings have a separate oil tank where the oil is pumped back into after it's did it's shit around the engine. This is controlled by a check valve to stop the oil draining back into the sump. If the check valve is incompetent the oil drains back into the sump. It will be pumped back to the tank when the engine is running again but some engines need to be drained which is a bitch. (My auld BSA C12 has this shite going on.)
I don't/I hope they stopped using this arse of a design 50 years ago.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

2006 will be an electra-X yes?

In answer to your question. Yes it can be normal to burn that much, especially if it's being ridden reasonably hard.

It's also probably less of a problem than you'd think.

Pretty sure you normally check them with the engine off and cold.

MCN. Bullets do have a seperate oil tank but it's integrated into the engine with internal oilways. All the scavenge goes to the top end then runs down under gravity. They CAN wet-sump but only when not running. You'd usually get a load of blue smoke on startup if it was and the thing to do is leave it to clear before moving away. The scavenge pump is man enough to shift it. Solution to them wet sumping is to park them on compression. If the crankpin is UP, it's higher than the oil level.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
2006 will be an electra-X yes?

In answer to your question. Yes it can be normal to burn that much, especially if it's being ridden reasonably hard.

It's also probably less of a problem than you'd think.

Pretty sure you normally check them with the engine off and cold.

MCN. Bullets do have a seperate oil tank but it's integrated into the engine with internal oilways. All the scavenge goes to the top end then runs down under gravity. They CAN wet-sump but only when not running. You'd usually get a load of blue smoke on startup if it was and the thing to do is leave it to clear before moving away. The scavenge pump is man enough to shift it. Solution to them wet sumping is to park them on compression. If the crankpin is UP, it's higher than the oil level.


No its a Bullet 500ES (4 Speed).

I had been told that you had to run the engine for a couple of minutes to get the oil circulating and then while it is on the centre stand switch off the engine and leave for a couple of minutes to settle and then check the level on the dip stick. Otherwise you get a false reading and can end up overfilling the oil. (At least that's what I was told).

I've started leaving the bike parked with the piston TDC by using the amp-meter as an indicator when it flicks into the minus, when slowly kicking her over. As you say, this is supposed to help stop the oil draining into the sump while parked up. I also always use the centre stand as I've been told if you use the side stand this also causes the oil to drain to the sump on.the L/H side of the engine.

Temperamental old buggers aren't they!
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Pretty sure you normally check them with the engine off and cold.


This is what I'd have thought

Dan Man wrote:
I had been told that you had to run the engine for a couple of minutes to get the oil circulating and then while it is on the centre stand switch off the engine and leave for a couple of minutes to settle and then check the level on the dip stick. Otherwise you get a false reading and can end up overfilling the oil. (At least that's what I was told).


Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running; too many variables surely. I'd double check this nugget of wisdom; if there's oil distributed around the engine when it's been ran for a few moments and left sitting for a few more, you'll get a false low reading which could then lead to overfilling.

I'd expect 200ml of oil on a 6 hour ride to be visible from the exhaust, e.g. on hard acceleration?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen the recommendation to run it briefly before checking before, because the level should be read with a working amount round the system rather than when it has all drained back to the sump overnight.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running


It's the only way to do it on the Royal Enfield UCE engine. If you run it, turn it off, put it on its sidestand, and then put it on the main stand the oil disappears. You need to run it with it on the centre stand, turn it off and let it settle for a couple of minutes.
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Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:40 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Pretty sure you normally check them with the engine off and cold.


This is what I'd have thought

Dan Man wrote:
I had been told that you had to run the engine for a couple of minutes to get the oil circulating and then while it is on the centre stand switch off the engine and leave for a couple of minutes to settle and then check the level on the dip stick. Otherwise you get a false reading and can end up overfilling the oil. (At least that's what I was told).


Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running; too many variables surely. I'd double check this nugget of wisdom; if there's oil distributed around the engine when it's been ran for a few moments and left sitting for a few more, you'll get a false low reading which could then lead to overfilling.

I'd expect 200ml of oil on a 6 hour ride to be visible from the exhaust, e.g. on hard acceleration?


My Bumble Mince Wank K1300 has a very specific set of skill that mak3 it a nightmare for people who just want to check the engine oil level.

Ensure that the engine is at normal running temperature. That means after a fairly decent run.
Stop the engine.
Lift the hoowur onto the centre stand.
Remove the seat pads for access to the oil reservoir.
Unscrew the wee wing-nutted bung from the top of the oil reservoir and wipe any oil off.
Shove it back in its wee hole but do not engage the thread.
Hoi the bastirt back out and check that the oil level is between the min max. The area between is cross-hatched.

Now this begs the question. What if there is not enough oil in to safely start the engine?
It has a wee plastic corrugated tube on the side of the reservoir. If you can see oil in the tube where the corrugations start then it's safe to start. Then run it up to warm and follow the bullshite above.

The bastirt 5ends to use a bit more oil than I'd prefer but it's a thing of design. Some oil is sacrificed to prevent engine wear.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a standard pre-unit 500 then I'd consider than much oil withing the range of normal useage.

Also yes, check level on the mainstand with the engine cool. The level in the timing chest will be artificially high and a lot will be hanging about in the rocker area if you check after running it. There is a 6mm hole for the oil to run back into the tank through.

Couple of things worth knowing.

One is that they have no valve stem oil seals so the can and will burn oil on the overrun, especially if ridden hard.

The level of oil on the dipstick is generally accepted to be rather on the high side. Some bikes will "settle" with the oil towards the bottom of the dipstick but will rapidly burn off anything over that level.

It's a dry-sump engine so oil LEVEL isn't as critical as on wet sump bikes. There needs to be enough oil to cover the feed pump pickup. most of the oil volume is to keep enough circulating to keep it cool so dropping off the bottom of the dipstick isn't the end of the world.

There IS an issue with them though. Standard 500 pistons are well known for being made of melted down rupees mixed with elephant dung (or a material with similar physical properties). They are then half sawn-through behind the oil control ring lands before being fitted. If you sit at 55mph all the time, this is fine. If you push it to a 65-70mph cruising speed, the crown of the piston will start to collapse front and back after a few thousand miles.

Early symptoms of piston collapse are a slight loss of power and compression. Later signs are an increase in oil consumption as the oil control ring gets pinched and a more serious loss of power and compression. Late symptoms are an abrupt seizure and the piston being ripped in half round the level of the oil control ring and (if you're unlucky) a conrod appearing through the front of the barrel.

Solutions include taking it easy, changing the piston regularly as a service item or blowing your wad on a forged accralite piston, an American made high compression piston or (if you can find one) an original NOS Reddich one (heppolite).

Or go mad and get a 535 piston and barrel. Or go utter full retard and do a 612 conversion for more than double what the whole bike cost you. Whistle

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BrmVosfKRUVzWwVNqiwNrXl6DR67WKqhRVMN1_Z2A6a6l00TFBG5LK-vnQQjpO74RXoMBtgNt5v6usiNnWzQcc0K4nsqcRHiHc3cMpzzVQ9J6II5CtGvNSFcxy4KKmvd8aT6-tQIkQ=w960-h720-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If it's a standard pre-unit 500 then I'd consider than much oil withing the range of normal useage.

Also yes, check level on the mainstand with the engine cool. The level in the timing chest will be artificially high and a lot will be hanging about in the rocker area if you check after running it. There is a 6mm hole for the oil to run back into the tank through.

Couple of things worth knowing.

One is that they have no valve stem oil seals so the can and will burn oil on the overrun, especially if ridden hard.

The level of oil on the dipstick is generally accepted to be rather on the high side. Some bikes will "settle" with the oil towards the bottom of the dipstick but will rapidly burn off anything over that level.

It's a dry-sump engine so oil LEVEL isn't as critical as on wet sump bikes. There needs to be enough oil to cover the feed pump pickup. most of the oil volume is to keep enough circulating to keep it cool so dropping off the bottom of the dipstick isn't the end of the world.

There IS an issue with them though. Standard 500 pistons are well known for being made of melted down rupees mixed with elephant dung (or a material with similar physical properties). They are then half sawn-through behind the oil control ring lands before being fitted. If you sit at 55mph all the time, this is fine. If you push it to a 65-70mph cruising speed, the crown of the piston will start to collapse front and back after a few thousand miles.

Early symptoms of piston collapse are a slight loss of power and compression. Later signs are an increase in oil consumption as the oil control ring gets pinched and a more serious loss of power and compression. Late symptoms are an abrupt seizure and the piston being ripped in half round the level of the oil control ring and (if you're unlucky) a conrod appearing through the front of the barrel.

Solutions include taking it easy, changing the piston regularly as a service item or blowing your wad on a forged accralite piston, an American made high compression piston or (if you can find one) an original NOS Reddich one (heppolite).

Or go mad and get a 535 piston and barrel. Or go utter full retard and do a 612 conversion for more than double what the whole bike cost you. Whistle

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BrmVosfKRUVzWwVNqiwNrXl6DR67WKqhRVMN1_Z2A6a6l00TFBG5LK-vnQQjpO74RXoMBtgNt5v6usiNnWzQcc0K4nsqcRHiHc3cMpzzVQ9J6II5CtGvNSFcxy4KKmvd8aT6-tQIkQ=w960-h720-no


Thanks that's very helpful ..
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Dan Man
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
ThunderGuts wrote:
Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running


It's the only way to do it on the Royal Enfield UCE engine. If you run it, turn it off, put it on its sidestand, and then put it on the main stand the oil disappears. You need to run it with it on the centre stand, turn it off and let it settle for a couple of minutes.


Thanks at least I've got something right.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 06:49 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
ThunderGuts wrote:
Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running


It's the only way to do it on the Royal Enfield UCE engine. If you run it, turn it off, put it on its sidestand, and then put it on the main stand the oil disappears. You need to run it with it on the centre stand, turn it off and let it settle for a couple of minutes.


You learn something new every day . . . bizarre!
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 11:48 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:


Uhhhm I'm not convinced on this - I've never come across an engine you check the oil level on immediately after running;



The oil level check on my XTZ660-based MZ baghira was a paint too. It was oil in frame and dry sump. You had to warm the engine up by going for a ride then allow it to idle for a minute before killing the engine and checking the level.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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