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CG125 Running Issues

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jamhowe
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 29 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: CG125 Running Issues Reply with quote

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and reasonably competent when it comes to working on cars but don't have much experience with bikes and carburettors.

I recently got a CG in bits that was a friend's project - he had intended to powdercoat it and reassemble everything but lost interest.
I have assembled the majority of the bike other than the lights and have it running, I'm not 100% on my wiring effort but most things seem to be in place and it starts.

On first filling the tank petrol ran directly out of the drain pipe at the bottom of the float bowl, this was solved by shutting off the fuel, draining it, and tightening everything back up.
After a while I got the bike running, it will start up and ride but bogs quite heavily and won't allow for a full range of revs, when the choke is on the revs skyrocket, and as it gets warmer/is used more it seems to weaken and won't set off under load.

Could this be an issue with my halfwhit wiring, or is it wholly carb related? I have soaked the carb and intake with wd40 and noticed no variation in revs.

Any help is massively appreciated !!
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

They have three positions for the choke.

The lever is either:

Off for normal running.

1/2 Choke for nitwits as it does Hee-Haw and complicate the issue.

Full Choke for every cold start (even in a 30° Centipede British Summer)

Almost any engine likes a little enrichment for positive start-up.

The start sequence:

Petrol cock to Run position. (or normal)
Choke to Full On.
'Crack' the throttle open (about 1/4 turn or less is fine).
Hit the button/Turn the hoowur over using the kick-start. It's a genteel roll of the kick-start. You only need to kick it when it wont start and you are already late for an appointment.
The bastirt should start if fuel and spark is OK.

If no starty:

Choke Off.
Open the throttle to the stop.
Turn the beast over on the starter to cough out all the un-burned fuel in the cylinder and manifold. (This is called 'flooded' There is no sloshing of petrol involved, it is just too much fuel and not enough air to burn it.)

Go through the same cold start procedure.

If it fails to start then start looking at 'things'.
If you can smell petrol from the exhaust then there is surely petrol getting into the cylinder.
Look at the ignition.
Pull the spark plug and check for a big fat blue spark when the plug is held against the block and the engine turned over. If you have a pace-maker fitted get some other daft cnut to hold the sparky bit.

They are a bit lumpy when first started and need a bit of choke for a few mins.
It is fine to start the beast and ride off with choke fully on.
About 200 yards down the road you can fumble about between your legs for the choke lever and turn it to the off position.
Just don't do this at the bottom of a hill you wish to traverse.

The carburettor is a joy to phaph with. Not a lot in them so you can easily rip it apart and clash it together again after drowning it in carb-cleaner.
Take pictures of every step so you can put it together again.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 29 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD40 probably won't cut it, get a can of proper carb cleaner Smile
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spraying WD40 on intakes isnt to fecking clean it ya numpty !
It's a well known test for intake leaks
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ofc you can use WD40 for leak testing but that's not how I read it Smile

<edit> grammar
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Last edited by Easy-X on 10:56 - 31 Jul 2019; edited 1 time in total
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MCN
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PostPosted: 06:39 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Spraying WD40 on intakes isnt to fecking clean it ya numpty !
It's a well known test for intake leaks


Karma for perfect use of the term 'Ya Numpty'.

Thumbs Up
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The theory is it's of Scottish original and a combination of "numbskull" and "Humpty Dumpty" Smile
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jamhowe
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 29 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again, it has spark and no problems with starting, it's just the running that's a problem.
I replaced the o rings on the intake and soaked it with wd again to check for leaks and it doesn't seem to have any.

When I start the bike up with any amount of choke now the revs are far, far too high to the point it feels I might be damaging the engine, and when choke is off it eventually settles but needs throttle to keep running and wont rev up at all without bogging, and I have the same problem with not moving under load after a couple of minutes.

It also backfires occasionally.

Any idea if it could be wiring related considering I slapped it together from a few boxes of bits and hadn't done it before? Or does it sound wholly carb related?
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The running issues described suggest the carb is badly set up. It could easily have been tampered with. A lot of them are (ruined in my opinion) in attempts to make something described as a 'cafe racer'. This usually involves ripping out the airbox and filter and sticking a pod filter on and wrecking the bike's performance and economy thereafter.

Quote:
when the choke is on the revs skyrocket, and as it gets warmer/is used more it seems to weaken and won't set off under load.


This suggests air leaks and possibly that the throttle slide is in the wrong way around. I come to this conclusion because the increase in engine revs when choke is on suggests richening the mixture allows it to run, but the very high revs suggests either that the idle has been set too high or the throttle slide is in back to front which is a common mistake after strip down or removal of the throttle slide.


OTHER THINGS TO CHECK:

Is the airbox and air cleaner present? If not, the engine would be running weak and might respond s yours does to the choke being put on at half choke.


Air leaks might be due to the rubber manifold being split and letting in unmetered air, or perhaps the bolts that hold the carb onto the engine are loose and causing air leaks either side of the manifold joints.
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jamhowe
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Joined: 29 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
This suggests air leaks and possibly that the throttle slide is in the wrong way around.


The throttle slide is definitely in the right way round and there doesn't seem to be any leaks, I've properly soaked the intake with no difference and the o rings have been replaced, everything is tight.

It backfires occasionally, and after fiddling with the idle screw it doesn't seem to resolve the whole problem.

I'm still questioning wiring, could it be anything to do with ignition timing or a couple of wires being misconnected?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blocked pilot jet maybe?
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



Joined: 24 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does sound like a blocked jet, clean the carb out carefully!
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamhowe wrote:


I'm still questioning wiring, could it be anything to do with ignition timing or a couple of wires being misconnected?
Most of the CG 125s have electronic ignition timed by a hall effect sensor on the flywheel. This is a fixed item, so I don't see how ignition timing could be off. Older models pre around 1990 had contact breaker ignition which needed to be kept in proper adjustment, so you could have a timing issue if the points were way out or maybe a faulty condensor, or dirty points could cause misfiring, but like I say, only rather old models have such arrangements.

Coming back to my earlier point about your report that putting the choke on half causes the engine to speed up and run too fast..... This is a clear indicator of too weak a mixture, so the suggestion made by Tankie and Easy x are probably on the mark. If you do strip the carb, be careful not to lose or misplace the tiny rubber o rings you will find inside and there is a tiny spring I think too in the jet at the base of the float bowl.

The pilot jet controls small throttle openings up to 1/8 throttle such as idling and moving off. This is easily messed up if some amateur dabbling has gone on before you got the bike. Use the Haynes manual to see what the basic idle screw and pilot jet settings are. Section 7 of Chapter 2 describes the slow running set up procedure. Basically, you get the bike running and GENTLY turn in the pilot jet air screw until the engine falters and note that position. Don't tighten it hard if it comes to a stop as the end has a small brass probe on the end and it will get damaged if you force it. Then, having established that position where it falters when the air screw is turned inwards, slowly wind the air screw back out, counting the turns as the engine goes through the faster running and as soon as it starts to falter again, note the total number of turns.

The correct setting is half way between these two points, so if you were to end up with a span of four turns winding it out, the correct setting is two turns back in. Then you need to use the throttle stop screw to adjust the tick over so it is ticking over properly.

The above governs only the slow running.
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamhowe wrote:

When I start the bike up with any amount of choke now the revs are far, far too high to the point it feels I might be damaging the engine, and when choke is off it eventually settles but needs throttle to keep running and wont rev up at all without bogging, and I have the same problem with not moving under load after a couple of minutes.


Just had a thought about the very fast running when it should be idling. I once had my petrol tank off for painting and when I put it back on, the bike would not idle properly because somehow the throttle cable was caught up under the tank in some way and the carb slide was pulled up so it reved far far too high. I re seated the tank and it came good immediately. I can't say exactly what happened under there, but I made sure the cables weren't trapped by the tank. Mine has two cables. If this is part of the problem it may not solve everything, but you could have more than one problem going on here at the same time. If you don't have air leaks, you might just check that the air slide / throttle can really close right down when you shut off the twist grip.

Earlier I asked about the air cleaner. Is it standard or a bodged up pod filter? Taking the standard air filter off will make the bike run weak which might be the cause of it running better when the choke is half on.

All this is made more difficult to trouble shoot because the bike was in bits when you got it and you don't know what has been done to it or the adjustment of sensitive parts like the carb.
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