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someone
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Joined: 26 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Heavy for winter?
Light for summer?
Its the opposite.

Brake oil?

You sure your not trolling The BCF Massive now?


blame the beer dude , yes its the opposite .
i mentioned brake oil because most people never care to flush or check the oil , i had one friend who lost all front brakes on his bike and after i checked the oil was soo old it turned to some sort of grease ,how i dont know.
no am not trolling , i tried to make it simple,
if am not welcomed around here i can stop posting
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someone
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Well at least the link looks interesting, that's my lunchtime sorted Smile


then check the fourms
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
from my car experience and the way i like to keep things simple

Oil specs :jaso,GL-X,API,whatever ..... stick with the owners manual ,using anything else will increase the wear.

Fair enough to follow the manual, but you can't know if anything different will always increase wear.

someone wrote:
Weight:for winter i use heavier oil, and lighter oil for summer within the specs chart of the user manual.

Wrong way around. Well, you may do it that way but if you do it goes against the reasons to do it the other way. [EDIT: you acknowledged and corrected your mistake]

someone wrote:
mineral or not : i didnt notice any gain , so mineral is ok .

Just because you didn't notice any gain, didn't mean there wasn't one. These days it is pretty much impossible to meet latest OEM specs with mineral oil.

someone wrote:
change intervals :once the oil is blackish it is time to change , i dont care what the sticker says.

Oil colour is not a great oil change indicator. Some engines will darken oil very quickly but the oil will still be in good shape.

someone wrote:
Brand : my fav is LIQUI MOLY but i will use any known brand on sale such as castrol , luk , mobile 1 etc etc etc

Seems fair - same for me really (except my favourite is different).

someone wrote:
added info: a high specs from a shitty company is always false .

Not always false, but always worth verifying. Lots of companies use phrases such as "meets the requirements of..." or "recommended for use where xxxxx is specified". These are ways of saying "we don't hold the official approval but believe our oil is up to it". The oil may or may not be up to it, the only way to know for sure is to apply for and receive the official approval. This is often not done to save time and money.

someone wrote:
if you have an oil fetsh i recommand bob the oil guy
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
TOO much details on engine oils

If you go there, take a very large pinch of salt with you. And it's 99% US-focussed.
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someone
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Fair enough to follow they manual, but you can't know if anything different will always increase wear.


yes it does if you put a GL-5 gear oil in a GL4 gearbox your will damage that unit as the sycnos are made or brass or copper or whatever. so i will look and look for a old stock GL4 and pay what ever i have to avoid damaging the gearbox and diff .

marine engine require some salt protection oils ,but these chemicals dont hurt car engines so when i had to much 4 stroke oil i use it on an older vechile i have without a problem . as in this scenario the main engine failure on this car will be always a head gasket way befor anything else .

on my camping power generator(s) i will throw in anything i can find in my stock atf,oil ,hell sometimes i mix the remaining of the opend bottles ...because these chinese shit will fail if you care for them or not


This just an examples i dont like to over compilcate things .

newer specs is not always better and its tricky. it depends on the application we are talking about , how much you care for that machine and the state of the "machine".


the manual is made by the same people who made the machine , so you or me wont be smarter than these people .

now if you require a spec that is not in production , then you have to check around.


Quote:
Just because you didn't notice any gain, didn't mean there wasn't one. These days it is pretty much impossible to meet latest OEM specs with mineral oil.


then follow the manual as i said .


Quote:
Oil colour is not a great oil change indicator. Some engines will darken oil very quickly but the oil will still be in good shape.


this here when i stop careing what the manual or oil stickers says .
a dark oil is always the seed for sludge and always shorten the life of the engine electronics .

oil is cheap , engines are not ,why risk it !!!


Quote:
Not always false, but always worth verifying. Lots of companies use phrases such as "meets the requirements of..." or "recommended for use where xxxxx is specified". These are ways of saying "we don't hold the official approval but believe our oil is up to it". The oil may or may not be up to it, the only way to know for sure is to apply for and receive the official approval. This is often not done to save time and money.


shitty companies start with recycled oil , shitty companies keep changing their names ,if they dont fail and close .
Stickers are cheap ,oil additives , quilty control , R&D is expensive.
they exist and will be around forever because their margins are higher for people who sells it .
and people will buy them because its cheap.

newer engine are usully built from shiity material and run hotter to get around emissions stantards so in modern engines i see more and more sealing issues(head to block ,piston ring) way befor bearing issues .

bearings are wear items ,whatever you do they will wear out .
modern engines are not build to last or even to be rebuild .

i metioned that website because people there been rambling since i think 2005 .
so anyone with an oil feitsh can jump there and find a thousand people who will keep their therad alive for the next 10 or more years.

Quote:
If you go there, take a very large pinch of salt with you. And it's 99% US-focussed.


yes its true but the industry as whole is highly controlled by the US .API , DOT , OBD etc etc

As for the pinch of salt the whole oil thing should be taken with a pinch of salt
i love my cars,motorcycle ...but i will never send an oil sample to a lab or get some sleepless nights over oil
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someone
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

SO which is better to siphon the old oil, or use the drain plug .
or how about unbolting the crankcase and let drip for a few days ...
and if i use a 50usd x brand filter will i protect my engine better .

Now am trolling Laughing
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 12 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
on my camping power generator(s) i will throw in anything i can find in my stock atf,oil ,hell sometimes i mix the remaining of the opend bottles ...because these chinese shit will fail if you care for them or not


Ballcocks.
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someone
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PostPosted: 02:30 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
someone wrote:
on my camping power generator(s) i will throw in anything i can find in my stock atf,oil ,hell sometimes i mix the remaining of the opend bottles ...because these chinese shit will fail if you care for them or not


Ballcocks.


one last thing i want to say is no engine should suffer 10,000km without an oil change .
if you drive in the city and drive slow you are increasing engine wear running "burned" oil
if you live near the ocean ..... again same thing.
if your engine leaks combustion gases beyound the rings .....same.
if your engine is air cooled , carb or gdi(gasoline direct injection) .... same
if you run the engine hard ....same

black oil means that the oil is burnt or lost its original specs
A 10w40 oil will become a stright 40 if we simiplify things .

oil compaines clamis a higher milage to justify the cost and makes it more appealing
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weasley
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
one last thing i want to say is no engine should suffer 10,000km without an oil change .

Why not? 10,000 is a nice round number that make people feel good, but an engine doesn't care about round numbers. What happens at 10,001 km? OR 11,000 km? I have run engines out to 30,000 km between oil changes. It's funny that one the one hand you are saying that the OEMs know best about what oil to put in their engines, yet on the other they don't know what oil change interval is appropriate?

someone wrote:
if you drive in the city and drive slow you are increasing engine wear running "burned" oil

City driving is very hard on the oil, but not because it is "burnt", more because you spend more time at idle and slow engine speeds.

someone wrote:
if you live near the ocean ..... again same thing.

What does living by the ocean have to do with anything?

someone wrote:
if your engine leaks combustion gases beyound the rings .....same.

All engines leak combustion gases past the rings - it's why crankcases have a breather, to let the blowby gases out. Worn engines will have higher blowby (as reduced compression) so will lead to worse problems.

someone wrote:
if your engine is air cooled , carb or gdi(gasoline direct injection) .... same

Same what? Each of the engine types you mentioned has different characteristics and oil needs.

someone wrote:
black oil means that the oil is burnt or lost its original specs

No it doesn't. For example diesel engine oils turn black very quickly due to soot dispersion. The oil is designed to disperse the soot and keep working. If you change a diesel engine oil when it gets black you'll be getting through a lot of oil and throwing away a lot of perfectly serviceable oil. GDI engines do similar as they generate more soot than carb or PFI engines.

someone wrote:
A 10w40 oil will become a stright 40 if we simiplify things .

No it won't. If anything a 10W-40 will shear down to a 30 grade but this is not through being "burnt" but through mechanical shearing of the long chain molecules that keep the viscosity up at high temperature.

someone wrote:
oil compaines clamis a higher milage to justify the cost and makes it more appealing

Wrong again. Oil change intervals are set by the OEMs, not the oil companies. The OEM sets a requirement and the oil company has to meet it. Some European OEMs have been pushing oil drains out to 30,000 kms for over 10 years, using engine monitoring and long life oil specifications.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
marine engine require some salt protection oils ,but these chemicals dont hurt car engines so when i had to much 4 stroke oil i use it on an older vechile i have without a problem . as in this scenario the main engine failure on this car will be always a head gasket way befor anything else .

I spent 11 years developing oils for marine engines - everything from small fishing boats to ocean-going container ships. I have never heard of a "salt protection oil". The main factor for marine engines is the fuel type and quality. I never once had to put any chemicals in the oil for "salt protection".
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
a dark oil is always the seed for sludge and always shorten the life of the engine electronics


Eh?

What has oil condition got to do with engine electronics?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
someone wrote:
a dark oil is always the seed for sludge and always shorten the life of the engine electronics


Eh?

What has oil condition got to do with engine electronics?


It has something to do with Brexiteers and the disappearance of MH370.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
someone wrote:
a dark oil is always the seed for sludge and always shorten the life of the engine electronics


Eh?

What has oil condition got to do with engine electronics?

There is a link here - a lot of modern engines and transmissions have electronics inside the cases that are bathed or splashed by oil. The oil has to be compatible with the electronics, PCBs, sensors etc to prevent failure. There have been cases of total failure because of a bad oil/electronics interaction. As oil get used it becomes more acidic, which can corrode copper or other vulnerable metals.

That said, a dark oil is not "always the seed for sludge" - decent oils are designed to disperse contaminants and prevent the formation of sludge.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be concerned if the bike oil was black.
I drain at 6k miles and the stuff that comes out could go straight back in (after screening through an auld sock).

Black oil indicates carbon in the oil. due to poor combustion of the fuel.
Or a substantial mechanical event where oil was/is being burned.

Diesel engines blacken their oil more easily due to characteristic un-burned fuel dissolving in the oil.
More modern Diesels waste less fuel so blackening from carbon is less of a problem.

And mechanical catastrophe will blacken the oil too.

Big machines that hold over, for example, 1000 worth of oil, use more sophisticated change indicators.

A critical factor in Diesel engine oil is the acidity. If the oil becomes acidic it dissolves the iron of the engine. The acid can soak into the block and weaken the structure.
The acid is produced by combustion of Diesel fuel that has a sulphur content. Depending on where the oil is found has some bearing on sulphur content. It is a part of the conversion of old sea creatures to hydro-carbon oil over millions of years. The decomposition gasses are part of what is found down there. Methane et al.

For big Diesels: Litres of fuel used and Diesel fuel quality calculation can help determine change intervals.
Or, more accurately, oil sampling, to determine oil condition.
Oil sampling can also show potential failure if wear metal trends are monitored as part of the oil analysis.
Other measures to extend oil life are water boilers, absorbent filters and time-release additive packs to maintain acidity (TBN - another discussion.)
Sampling can also flag other conditions in the engine such as plugged air filters, over heating or coolant leaks into the oil.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

TZ was every meeting, castrol R30. YPVS race bike, every other meeting, silkolene light gear oil. YPVS road bike, every 3000m, Silkolene light gear oil. BMW R1150R every 5000m, it uses a bit so it probably gets half a change in top ups. My self employed mates truck - about every 100k, the oil is very very expensive.

OGR

P.S. this thread has been very interesting, thanks for all the sensible contributions.
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someone
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude as i said many times befor am not an oil engineer and not even a mechinical engineer am a civil engineer who loves engines.

for the salt thing as i didnt know it might be a marketing thing for marine oil "suprior salt protection " is being stated alot on those cans , but since its a sticker thing , it might be false idk

i mentioned engines because carb and gdi will always leak petrol past the piston rings ,the new honda suffer from this issue.

As for engine electronics a damaged varible timing system is mostly due to old oil .

Trannys suffer from that as well


i will not get into poltics as eu is pushing for something or whatever.car manufuctures dont care about you after the warrinty is done , all they care about is that every 5 years you buy a new car . thats why alot of the parts had been made of plastic in recent years.

i can tolrate a plastic intake manifold , but a plastic water pump is pushing it.

As for my self ,they company i work for we work in remote areas drilling wells in middlle of no where .

our vechiles even though are newish 2015-above are very reiable with 500,000+ on the dash and still reiable as new. all with original engine and tranny .

Every 3500-5000km change oil , every 6 months we change all fluids. its part of our preventive maintenance.

i used the same rule of thumb for my personal stuff , so its 3500-500 km for engine oil or depending on the color, and every 1 year for all other fluids .

and my vechiles are all happy .

i buy oil bulk or bulkish

Again oil is cheap , engines are not .
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 13 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always go "panning for swarf" when I do an oil change. Thankfully I've only found some after a top end rebuild - to be expected - helps to do it on a sunny day so any bits catch the light Smile
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someone
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is from our friend BOB The oil guy .

as for the dirty oil and sludge if you own a dodge then you should be extra carefull with sludge problems of old oil . thats why i started overchanging the oil

article starts here:

The 3,000-mile or 3-month oil change has long been the standard in the United States, and has served Americans well. Over the last decade, however, there has been a gradual shift away from this traditional oil change interval. But maintaining a 3,000-mile or 3-month schedule is cheap insurance and many motorists would do well to retain it. Let's answer some questions about this robust maintenance regimen.

Q: How often should I change my oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. It's cheap insurance.

Q: Do you actually know anybody who drives less than 3,000 miles in three months?

A: One guy. He drives about 200 miles a month, and takes the public transit system the rest of the time.

Q: So this guy should change his oil, even though it only has 600 miles on it?

A: You never know what could have happened to the oil while it was just sitting there. It's cheap insurance.

Q: At 200 miles a month, wouldn't it be cheaper to just rent a car?

A: We're getting off topic here.

Q: My owner's manual doesn't say anything about 3,000-mile oil changes. It says to go longer than that.

A: Car manufacturers are in the business of selling cars, and they believe if they can make your engine wear out prematurely, you'll go back to them for another car. The 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against this.

Q: Well, the car has an oil life monitor that tells me when to change the oil. Can't I go by that?

A: How can the car possibly know what's going on in the oil? They make those things go too long for the same reason they print inflated numbers in the owner's manual.

Q: Actually, I think they use a complex mathematical model tailored to the specific engine and oil type, which uses input from the variables measured by the engine computer such as RPM and operating temperature.

A: And you TRUST them?

Q: But if the engine fails prematurely, doesn't the manufacturer eat the cost of repairs during the warranty period?

A: Oh but it won't fail until the car is outside the warranty period.

Q: So how is that a premature failure?

A: It won't be TOO far outside the warranty period, you can be sure of that.

Q: Okay, so car manufacturers carefully craft their oil recommendations specifically so that the engine fails after the warranty period so they don't have to pay for it, but not too far after the warranty period so consumers will come back to them for another car, instead of buying from a competitor that doesn't yank them around like this?

A: They ALL do it. And the 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against it.

Q: You're saying that if your engine blows up with 60,000 miles on it, you'll go back to the same manufacturer for another car?

A: My engine will never blow up, because I'm using a 3,000-mile interval.

Q: Can I switch to synthetic oil?

A: Sure. Synthetics offer many technological advances, including superior viscosity stability, better extreme-temperature performance, higher levels of acid neutralization ability, more shear strength, improved film cling, and of course slight improvements in fuel economy and horsepower in some engines. Great stuff, synthetics.

Q: So how often should I change the synthetic oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles. Even with synthetics, it's cheap insurance.

Q: Um, the stuff costs two to three times what conventional oil costs. That's cheap insurance?

A: Compared to how much it would cost to buy an engine, it's cheap.

Q: What evidence is there to show that running extended drains on synthetic oil will cause the engine to fail?

A: I don't have any, because I've never had an engine fail, because I change the oil every 3,000 miles. Now that's what I call cheap insurance!

Q: Uncountable studies performed by auto manufacturers, oil producers, industry analysts, and research groups like the SAE, both here and in Europe, have shown that synthetic oil can hold up for extended drain intervals. Why shouldn't I have some faith in this body of evidence?

A: You don't see anything on the bottle about extended drains, do you? They all say to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Q: You don't think that has anything to do with the litigous attitude in the U.S., and the oil companies' efforts to cover their butts from every idiot who runs his oil-burning 1986 Dodge Caravan completely dry?

A: What?

Q: Never mind. Amsoil says right on the bottle that you can run extended intervals.

A: And you TRUST them??

Q: Er, I thought you said--

A: Best to stick with 3,000-mile intervals. Cheap insurance.

Q: Isn't it wasteful to get rid of perfectly good synthetic oil at 3,000 miles?

A: There's plenty of oil to be had, and it's cheap insurance.

Q: There's plenty of beer to be had, but you don't drink half the bottle and pour the rest down the drain.

A: Oil isn't beer.

Q: Here's a hypothetical question. Each year, Americans consume 640 million gallons of motor oil. Even if we just went from your 3,000-mile interval to a 5,000-mile interval, that'd save 256 million gallons of oil. Most estimates for oil recycling peg the amount of recycled motor oil at no better than half, so even with the most generous estimate we'd still save 128 million gallons of oil pollution. In other words, if everyone increased their oil change interval by 2,000 miles, we'd save the nation the equivalent of 13 Exxon Valdez accidents each year. Isn't that a worthwhile goal?

A: MY oil gets recycled.

Q: That's not the point. If you use a quality oil, it seems like you could extend your drain intervals by a little bit, helping to reduce pollution and lower your operating costs at the same time.

A: I've never lost an engine using the 3,000-mile interval.

Q: You've never lost an engine using a 5,000-mile interval either.

A: Look, it's just cheap insurance.

Q: Do you wear a helmet in the shower? After all, there are over 110,000 bathtub and shower injuries per year. At 30 bucks, a helmet would be cheap insurance.

A:

Q: Hello?

A: Go away.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

tl;dr can it actually hurt to change oil more often?

While I enjoy a bit of bike maintenance you do have to consider actually riding the bike at some point maybe even just for fun?!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 04:19 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
tl;dr can it actually hurt to change oil more often?

While I enjoy a bit of bike maintenance you do have to consider actually riding the bike at some point maybe even just for fun?!


Yes it can hurt to change oil too often before it's due.

It's expensive and there is no real 'scientific' evidence to suggest that it helps.

There is financial burden material and labour. And downtime of equipment for unnecessary work.

But people male a healthy living as homeopaths even eith today's modern and ultra scientific health service.
Wankers who practice it and wankers who believe in it.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 04:20 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone wrote:
this is from our friend BOB The oil guy .

as for the dirty oil and sludge if you own a dodge then you should be extra carefull with sludge problems of old oil . thats why i started overchanging the oil

article starts here:

The 3,000-mile or 3-month oil change has long been the standard in the United States, and has served Americans well. Over the last decade, however, there has been a gradual shift away from this traditional oil change interval. But maintaining a 3,000-mile or 3-month schedule is cheap insurance and many motorists would do well to retain it. Let's answer some questions about this robust maintenance regimen.

Q: How often should I change my oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. It's cheap insurance.

Q: Do you actually know anybody who drives less than 3,000 miles in three months?

A: One guy. He drives about 200 miles a month, and takes the public transit system the rest of the time.

Q: So this guy should change his oil, even though it only has 600 miles on it?

A: You never know what could have happened to the oil while it was just sitting there. It's cheap insurance.

Q: At 200 miles a month, wouldn't it be cheaper to just rent a car?

A: We're getting off topic here.

Q: My owner's manual doesn't say anything about 3,000-mile oil changes. It says to go longer than that.

A: Car manufacturers are in the business of selling cars, and they believe if they can make your engine wear out prematurely, you'll go back to them for another car. The 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against this.

Q: Well, the car has an oil life monitor that tells me when to change the oil. Can't I go by that?

A: How can the car possibly know what's going on in the oil? They make those things go too long for the same reason they print inflated numbers in the owner's manual.

Q: Actually, I think they use a complex mathematical model tailored to the specific engine and oil type, which uses input from the variables measured by the engine computer such as RPM and operating temperature.

A: And you TRUST them?

Q: But if the engine fails prematurely, doesn't the manufacturer eat the cost of repairs during the warranty period?

A: Oh but it won't fail until the car is outside the warranty period.

Q: So how is that a premature failure?

A: It won't be TOO far outside the warranty period, you can be sure of that.

Q: Okay, so car manufacturers carefully craft their oil recommendations specifically so that the engine fails after the warranty period so they don't have to pay for it, but not too far after the warranty period so consumers will come back to them for another car, instead of buying from a competitor that doesn't yank them around like this?

A: They ALL do it. And the 3,000-mile interval is cheap insurance against it.

Q: You're saying that if your engine blows up with 60,000 miles on it, you'll go back to the same manufacturer for another car?

A: My engine will never blow up, because I'm using a 3,000-mile interval.

Q: Can I switch to synthetic oil?

A: Sure. Synthetics offer many technological advances, including superior viscosity stability, better extreme-temperature performance, higher levels of acid neutralization ability, more shear strength, improved film cling, and of course slight improvements in fuel economy and horsepower in some engines. Great stuff, synthetics.

Q: So how often should I change the synthetic oil?

A: Every three months or 3,000 miles. Even with synthetics, it's cheap insurance.

Q: Um, the stuff costs two to three times what conventional oil costs. That's cheap insurance?

A: Compared to how much it would cost to buy an engine, it's cheap.

Q: What evidence is there to show that running extended drains on synthetic oil will cause the engine to fail?

A: I don't have any, because I've never had an engine fail, because I change the oil every 3,000 miles. Now that's what I call cheap insurance!

Q: Uncountable studies performed by auto manufacturers, oil producers, industry analysts, and research groups like the SAE, both here and in Europe, have shown that synthetic oil can hold up for extended drain intervals. Why shouldn't I have some faith in this body of evidence?

A: You don't see anything on the bottle about extended drains, do you? They all say to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Q: You don't think that has anything to do with the litigous attitude in the U.S., and the oil companies' efforts to cover their butts from every idiot who runs his oil-burning 1986 Dodge Caravan completely dry?

A: What?

Q: Never mind. Amsoil says right on the bottle that you can run extended intervals.

A: And you TRUST them??

Q: Er, I thought you said--

A: Best to stick with 3,000-mile intervals. Cheap insurance.

Q: Isn't it wasteful to get rid of perfectly good synthetic oil at 3,000 miles?

A: There's plenty of oil to be had, and it's cheap insurance.

Q: There's plenty of beer to be had, but you don't drink half the bottle and pour the rest down the drain.

A: Oil isn't beer.

Q: Here's a hypothetical question. Each year, Americans consume 640 million gallons of motor oil. Even if we just went from your 3,000-mile interval to a 5,000-mile interval, that'd save 256 million gallons of oil. Most estimates for oil recycling peg the amount of recycled motor oil at no better than half, so even with the most generous estimate we'd still save 128 million gallons of oil pollution. In other words, if everyone increased their oil change interval by 2,000 miles, we'd save the nation the equivalent of 13 Exxon Valdez accidents each year. Isn't that a worthwhile goal?

A: MY oil gets recycled.

Q: That's not the point. If you use a quality oil, it seems like you could extend your drain intervals by a little bit, helping to reduce pollution and lower your operating costs at the same time.

A: I've never lost an engine using the 3,000-mile interval.

Q: You've never lost an engine using a 5,000-mile interval either.

A: Look, it's just cheap insurance.

Q: Do you wear a helmet in the shower? After all, there are over 110,000 bathtub and shower injuries per year. At 30 bucks, a helmet would be cheap insurance.

A:

Q: Hello?

A: Go away.


You are Tefers and I claim my 5
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someone
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Jul 2019
Karma :

PostPosted: 06:12 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN jesus the guy had done hunderds maybe thousdends of used and virgin oil testing, he is like an oil god .

No it doesnt hurt the engine to change the oil more often,
maybe the drain plug but the engine.....NO

as for the cost !!
find a wholesale supplier and pass the savings for family and friends.
drums are the cheapest but people hate getting oil from drums
i usully buy a couple of cartoons of 4 or 5 liters , i give my family free oil and pass to friends at cost price which is 20-30% cheaper than retail,

and everyone is happy !

if i was anywhere near uk i would give 5 pounds worth of oil
hell i will change your bike oil for free!

Quote:
It's expensive and there is no real 'scientific' evidence to suggest that it helps.


hmm what about these tests, check their website.

"It's expensive "
hmmm really ,12-24 pound (full retail price) for 4 liter is a financial burden!! Shocked

Quote:
and labour


really !! is it a 4 hour job or something ?!,does it require dealer specific tools . come on man.
Quote:
today's modern and ultra scientific health service.
Wankers who practice it and wankers who believe in it.


so you are one of those people who thinks that we live in the best times.

your modern scientific life gave us rubbish vegtable ,tastles chicken & meat and decreasing real human connections ----off topic

btw on those detroit diesel and CAT engines that drive the well pumps .
they change the oil everyweek regardless of the use .

I might be a wanker , but BOB is a wanker , my company mechanics , the company that owns all the oil wells that we work for most people in the us of A hmmm ...
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Easy-X
Formerly known as
HardlyDavidson



Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay... this is thread is starting to go a bit pete tong Sad

With regard to more frequent oil changes while I can see there's something to be said for accidentally damaging the sump plug threads etc. I think the main problem I'd have is the over consumption of resources.

Even if I could get engine oil for free I still wouldn't drain and refill after every ride! Surely the responsible thing is to try and get as much use out of the oil without doing too much damage to the engine. Yes, the oil could be mostly recycled but that still requires time and energy.

Maybe someone could tell me if I only change oil once a year I'll end up doing a top end rebuild in 5 years time but if I change oil every six months I can put that off till 10 years time? Then you could do a cost analysis but the real world is rarely that mathematically certain.
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Courier265
World Chat Champion



Joined: 01 Oct 2017
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mechanic buys Q8 semi synthetic in bulk which is used in all 3 of my
bikes, because of my job the oil gets changed every 3 or 4 thousand
miles. So I have about 6 oil changes a year and it's more expensive now
because all 3 bikes have an oil filter to change. (My previous CB250
didn't have an external oil filter)
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Nobby the Bastard
World Chat Champion



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Okay... this is thread is starting to go a bit pete tong Sad



I don't know, we've identified another sperg.
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MCN
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 14 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Courier265 wrote:
My mechanic buys Q8 semi synthetic in bulk which is used in all 3 of my
bikes, because of my job the oil gets changed every 3 or 4 thousand
miles. So I have about 6 oil changes a year and it's more expensive now
because all 3 bikes have an oil filter to change. (My previous CB250
didn't have an external oil filter)


What is the benefit of changing oil and filter well before it is necessary?

The OEM guidance has a very wide margin of precision.

It recommends 6k or once per year.

But if the machine doesn't get hammered and you use good quality lube then there is no need to be so precious.

The cash and time is better invested in something more useful.

Perhaps 50 years ago when oils were less sophisticated and machinery was more clashed together it would be a thing.

There is no evidence to suggest it improves anything.
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