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| Falco |
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Falco
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| Pete. |
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Pete.
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 Posted: 19:58 - 25 Aug 2019  Post subject: |
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The brown and black is a feed from the 15a fuse 3 to the rear brake light switch, turn signal relay and horn, so you can safely tap that for your relay feed.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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Falco
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Pete.
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Falco
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| sickpup |
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sickpup
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| Falco |
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Falco
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Posted: 22:57 - 09 Sep 2019  Post subject: |
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| sickpup wrote: | | Falco wrote: | Apologies if I am being dense here, but doesn't the green/yellow go from the switch to the brake light (it looks like it on the diagram), the brown/black feeds the switch, but connects to the green/white on the "switch" side of the connector, so the green/white is also the switched live (just on the other side of the connector)? |
Yes it is a switched live, switched by the brake light switch so will only be live when you pull the brakes. So if you want the relay to be energised only when you pull the brake thats the one to go for, if not listen to Pete. |
Both wires entering the switch can't be energised by the switch though.
If the brown/black is carrying power when the ignition is live, on the "bike" side of the connector block, it must also be carrying power on the "switch" side. So the question I was actually asking (as opposed to the one you answered) was which of the wires on the "switch" side of the block to use.
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| Pete. |
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Pete.
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| Posted: 23:55 - 09 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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The brown and black.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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| weasley |
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weasley
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Falco
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Islander
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Pete.
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Meatybeaty
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| Easy-X |
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Easy-X
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| Posted: 11:36 - 11 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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Reading all this I'm a bit confused...
Do you have a 'thing' that needs power. It's high current so you don't want it to draw power from the ignition circuit directly but instead get power from the battery and control when it gets power via a relay.
So relay has a coil side (which will be connected to the ignition controlled power) and a switch side (which will feed power from the battery to the 'thing')
I think that's what I'm reading 
Based on the kindly provide circuit diagram I would suggest connecting the coil side of relay to Brown/Black (ignition controlled power) and ground (direct to frame or Green on the diagram)
The chosen 'thing' will have it's ground connection either direct to frame or the battery negative terminal (I wouldn't recommend connecting to any Green wires if it wants high current.) and its positive feed from one of the relay switched terminals. The remaining, unconnected relay switch terminal will be connected to the battery either after the 30A fuse (Red wire) or direct to the battery positive terminal via an independent fuse.
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| Pete. |
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Pete.
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Posted: 12:56 - 11 Sep 2019  Post subject: |
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I think I've just figured out where the confusion is.
Falco is using the term 'switch' when he should be using 'loom connector'. It's the equivalent of calling a domestic wall socket 'the house side of the hoover' Doesn't make much sense does it?
Suitably edited, Falco's post makes perfect sense:
| Falco wrote: |
The bike side of the LOOM PLUG has a green/ yellow striped wire and a brown/black striped wire and the switch side OF THE PLUG has a green/yellow striped wire and a white wire with a thin green line.
The wiring diagram shows a brown/black wire going to the switch and a yellow/green wire from the switch going to the brake and tail light.
So, presumably one wire is the power and the other the switched live to complete the circuit, but, which is which? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the brown/black is switched live for Honda, which would make the green/yellow the power. Can anyone confirm (or deny) that? |
So the answer at face value is plug in the loom connector and confirm that the green/yellow passes straight through and the black/brown turns into green/white to feed the brake light switch. If it does, you can tap the green/white to feed your relay if you want, though black/brown is still the favoured option otherwise if your brake light switch ever needs changing or just un-plugging, you can't because you've made a permanent connection the wrong side of the plug. Another consideration is that brake light sub-looms often have much thinner wires than the bike side of the loom plug. That makes them fragile and prone to breaking especially if soldered.
By the way, a switched live ALWAYS only refers to the bike's main live feed which is turned on and off by the ignition switch. Don't confuse it with the brake light feed from the brake light switch - that's a switched feed, not a switched live.
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a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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Easy-X
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| Posted: 21:18 - 11 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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I just read the initial post and didn't read the actual thread title 
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| Falco |
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Falco
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| Posted: 22:14 - 19 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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| Pete. wrote: | I think I've just figured out where the confusion is.
Falco is using the term 'switch' when he should be using 'loom connector'. It's the equivalent of calling a domestic wall socket 'the house side of the hoover' Doesn't make much sense does it?
Suitably edited, Falco's post makes perfect sense:
| Falco wrote: |
The bike side of the LOOM PLUG has a green/ yellow striped wire and a brown/black striped wire and the switch side OF THE PLUG has a green/yellow striped wire and a white wire with a thin green line.
The wiring diagram shows a brown/black wire going to the switch and a yellow/green wire from the switch going to the brake and tail light.
So, presumably one wire is the power and the other the switched live to complete the circuit, but, which is which? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the brown/black is switched live for Honda, which would make the green/yellow the power. Can anyone confirm (or deny) that? |
So the answer at face value is plug in the loom connector and confirm that the green/yellow passes straight through and the black/brown turns into green/white to feed the brake light switch. If it does, you can tap the green/white to feed your relay if you want, though black/brown is still the favoured option otherwise if your brake light switch ever needs changing or just un-plugging, you can't because you've made a permanent connection the wrong side of the plug. Another consideration is that brake light sub-looms often have much thinner wires than the bike side of the loom plug. That makes them fragile and prone to breaking especially if soldered.
By the way, a switched live ALWAYS only refers to the bike's main live feed which is turned on and off by the ignition switch. Don't confuse it with the brake light feed from the brake light switch - that's a switched feed, not a switched live. |
 Yeah, that was poor word choice on my part, apolgies for the confusion. I figured it was probably the green/white, but I tapped the switched live on the bike side (the brown/black) of the plug, just in case.
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 7 years, 24 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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