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Gazz
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Joined: 19 May 2009
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Chain help and advice Reply with quote

I'll try and keep this as quick as possible.

Bought a bike. Had fucked chain and sprockets.

Bought replacement chain which was too long. Tried to shorten it and fucked it.

So I bought another chain and a rivet link.

Both chains were 530.

When the second chain arrived, it is not as thick as the first chain.

There is also no rubber rings that I can see on this chain or with the rivet link.

Will this be OK to fit without rubber seals?

I'm at my wits end with this bike, just want it on the road.

Ill forward some pictures in a moment to help.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/71596138_10157454374597768_5036465151654494208_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_oc=AQkkxsQSDd1XrmSExhwubLRvIYRHVMAhyOU-bnHWsgBDMHXn5Q3I_gZceNfKNL7Z3UfzAmhtfULeMM3znILy-6X0&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr3-1.xx&oh=db0e32a3cfe1a0af0d16b6db099a19a0&oe=5E332C56

New chain, no rubber rings.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

First replacement chain that I fucked.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/70631681_10157454374482768_4513812325160976384_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_oc=AQnubDbNh53tNrB1hTMeBTBlA0LqJpOPNKsWWwwmTjjnyXXKyLOU6nzymRSMVHCrfRmwrbrbdDgFfjxKkYy_UnJd&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr3-1.xx&oh=e6f90d481113f0b3ac35eb955f876352&oe=5DF3AA92

Difference is size. First chain on left. New chain on right.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/71055343_10157454374672768_8208982125400031232_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_oc=AQn8Ako7eTkWQS-EWo59TC_eIw9TJGkf97bgd0x5YHCyYKaUdlKChz8k3XXPSCXtX8ltRMg3IAWt9F-XiVVKAmc7&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr3-1.xx&oh=02da4f3a072ecebc3efa745de6375ccb&oe=5DF831D7
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://scontent.flhr2-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/70400026_10157454374857768_3693090409002565632_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&_nc_oc=AQlzWjvCZT7yYRM9QN2-qS0HtbWNty1PjkUTC4_1BlS7zSWLsML74uzaBcf-hr99vKQ&_nc_ht=scontent.flhr2-2.fna&oh=d1d90043452fa83f1d0f32419451bdd8&oe=5E36B51B

New rivet link, with no rubber seals.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

O ring chains are grease sealed to keep the crap out and will last longer and less stretch with just a surface lube.

The other chain will need lubing inside and out and adjusting and cleaning more.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Furthermore, I wanted a chain riveting video on YouTube and the guy in the video just pushed the rivet link through with his hands. The link which I have appears to be too tight to push through.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sealed chains are still good to use. They are usually only fitted to things that are enclosed to prevent shite sticking to the lubricant. A chain guard. Modern bikes do not use chain guards so need a sealed chain.

The unsealed chain will be fine but just won't last as long as a sealed chain. Make sure you clean it and lube it regularly.
I use the following regime. Lube the chain every full tank of fun juice.
A dry lube or oil based what ever. Dry lube resists shit sticking to the chain which can promote wear.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
O ring chains are grease sealed to keep the crap out and will last longer and less stretch with just a surface lube.

The other chain will need lubing inside and out and adjusting and cleaning more.


Do the one with the rubber rings is an X ring chain and the one without the rubber is an O ring chain?

Do you need different rivet links for different types of chain?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:
O ring chains are grease sealed to keep the crap out and will last longer and less stretch with just a surface lube.

The other chain will need lubing inside and out and adjusting and cleaning more.


Do the one with the rubber rings is an X ring chain and the one without the rubber is an O ring chain?

Do you need different rivet links for different types of chain?


O-ring X-Ring should be fitted with the same seal. But at a push an o-ring will work.

X-Ring are claimed to transmit power with less frictional losses and improved double edge sealing. So should last longer in theory than the 'standard' O-Ring.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you get different sizes on rivet link. The second chain that I bought did not come with a rivet link. So I bought one separately. It will not go through the holes in the chain but it will go through the first chain that I have damaged.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck this shit. I'm going back to a shaft drive.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chains are sized by various dimensions. Pitch Width and roller diameter.

These will all determine the pin diameter.

I would not 'mix' the master pin ans try to use the pin supplied by the Chain OEM.
Have you contacted the cnuts who sold you the latest chain and asked for help?
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be using the o ring chain because I have made a mess of the xring one.

Any idea why the rivet link will not pass though the links? The chain and link both say 530 on them.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Chains are sized by various dimensions. Pitch Width and roller diameter.

These will all determine the pin diameter.

I would not 'mix' the master pin ans try to use the pin supplied by the Chain OEM.
Have you contacted the cnuts who sold you the latest chain and asked for help?


Not yet.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
I'll be using the o ring chain because I have made a mess of the xring one.

Any idea why the rivet link will not pass though the links? The chain and link both say 530 on them.


Possibly an 'interference Fit' to prevent the link pin rotating against each other.

A chain tool is used to push them together for riveting.

The fit should be tight for assembly so the side plate can be positioned and not crush the seal whilst the end is deformed/riveted. Too much force on the seal and it will fail.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just noticed that the o ring chain has did50 wrote on the side, instead of did530, could this be a reason for the l
Pin not being able to pass through?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 20 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
Fuck this shit. I'm going back to a shaft drive.


And that, dear friends, is the best advice going!!

However for you problem, yes the standard chain will work fine. They were going for decades before the fancy o ring and x ring chains arrived on the scene.

As others have said you will just need a stricter cleaning regime.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If both chains are 530 chains, why would the plates be different sizes?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
If both chains are 530 chains, why would the plates be different sizes?

The plates are wider for the o-rings to work, the pin to pin distance should be the same.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

530 refers to the width of the sprocket, not the size of the plates.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

For accuracy, the 530 referrs to the pitch and width of the chain The width being the distance between the inside of the plates (the roller width if you preferr), the pitch being the distance between the pins.

As has been said, the diameter of the pins, pin length and the outer width of the chain will vary between models but those two sizes are the important ones that determine what will fit.

For interest, 530 is the ISO "metric" standard they adopted based on the old imperial sizes in 8ths of an inch and that's probably the most common.

so 530 is 5/8" by 3/8". 520 would be 5/8" by 2/8". 525 would be 5/8" by 5/16". And so on.

So next time someone tells you Europe and Japan work on the metric system, you know they are wrong.

Heavy duty non o-ring chains are often stronger than the same size o-ring, they tend to have thicker pins. They will often use heavy duty (or standard duty) chains on race bikes for reduced resistance because they don't have the stiction of the seals to overcome. My mate runs a standard duty 520 chain on his 160bhp gsxr1100 race bike.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where would I find the information which would help me order the correct size of rivet link for this chain?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 21 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
Where would I find the information which would help me order the correct size of rivet link for this chain?


I don't think there is such a thing as a rivet link for a standard duty DID chain. Spring clip or nothing.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Re: Tyers Reply with quote

Johnsumner wrote:
Hi new to biking, tyers I have on my Keeway are rubbish, any tips when buying new ones please


Tyres
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