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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Dec 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 19:03 - 18 Dec 2019 Post subject: Light bulb blows with RPM |
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I have a KTM EXC 125, my lights work, however, they're glowing brighter than they should, and whenever my RPM goes up / I rev my engine, they just blow out.
I asked around, and everyone told me its the regulator / rectifier, so I bought a new one, but my light bulbs still blow out.
(and no, its not the battery, EXC 125 doesnt have a battery.)
I really need help with this.
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :  
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Dec 2019 Karma :   
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 20:25 - 18 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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If it's direct (A/C) lighting, you also need the correct wattage bulbs in.
Does it do it with the headlight fully on too or just with the daytime running/sidelights? ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Dec 2019 Karma :   
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 21:58 - 18 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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I had this on an old z200. It was the regulator/rectifier. Check the running voltage I bet it's up around 50-60v when it's revving. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 23:41 - 18 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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First question; DO you actually have a licence to be able to ride this thing?
That particular bike, may be a 125, but it isn't A1 complient or Learner-Legal. I seem to recall its not even A2 complaint as the power-to weight ratio is too high and you cant 'restrict' one enough within the licence regs.
If you no have licence, and so shouln't be using the thing on Her-Magesties, then lights not working is probably not a problem. If you want to stay legal, park it up, stay off the road. If you dont care about the legality... well, a blown light bulb wont add much to the rap-sheet, will it? (Though may give them good cause to pull you in the first place.. but meh, you ride at risk, you take your chances!)
On to the actual blown bulb problem. This is a competition model build for off-road only use.... they only expect the lamps to be turned on at scrutineering, and they don't expect the scrutineers to be revving the buts off the motor during their inspection.... so again, WHY is this a 'Problem' (ubless you are trying to use it as an illegal L-Plate road bike, and dodge getting tugged!)
Non battery bikes, had/have a hobbit of doing this, blowing bulbs. In fact many battery bikes with more primitive electrical systems do too, but still.
In competition, the answer is you don't really need lights so just remove them. OR if as for competition Enduro, you loose points at scrutineering/check-points is the lamps dont wo4k... hopw manmy points might you use, and is it worth the faff for them extra points? I have known folk run no-lights MX bikes, and take the penalties for no-lights cos they are so small, for the faff of solving the 'problem', relatively. OR if they have to have working lamps, then they have gone total loss, and wired them to a push-bike lamp battery, for the small current they going to draw at scrutineering/chjeck-point....
Which brings us back to road use.... and is that even a great idea from the off?
Traditionally, in years past, on a road bike with a 'weak' electrical system, prone to blowing bulbs, the more usual answer was simply to pop a couple of spares, usually tail lamp and maybe a headlamp bulb, under the seat... "Sorry Orificer... it done it again.. hang on a second, and I'll fix itt.. swap in new bulb and ride off....
Faults usually were a knackered ballast resister or corroded ballast resistor terminals, or broken wire, and or the wrong wattage bulb.... and perversely many folk bunged in higher wattage bulbs than the book said in naive belief that they 'must' make more light.... or used 12v bulbs in 6v system, etc etc etc.
It's a KTM and a competition model, so I am some-whet sanguine at the suggestion "As STANDARD, the lights should work'.. they should and probably did.. in the show-room.... but its a KTM..... so who knows.....
Bulbs will blow because either a) they are old, b) they are cheap chitty bulbs c) they get too hot from too much current d) They get shaken excessively by vibration.... whats the odds on each possibility?
I would start by making sure that all the lamps were properly and securely attached, and any vibration damping in the mountings was actually there and able to work. I would look at the bulb wattages and the blb holders and clean all the contacts, and the switches and clean the contacts there too. THEN I would start looking upstream in ths system, and checking the alternator output... bulbs blowing when revved implies excess volts/amps, you dont have battery to damp, giving the regulator/ Zenner diode / Ballast resistor more work to do.. and then looking at that excess electric handling sub-system, like whether it SHOULD have a battery, and or the Regulkator/Zenner/Balast was shot or had coroded connectors or stessesed wires/connections....
But mostly, I would be wondering why I had bought a KTM, and all the reported problems that comes with one, like iffy electrics, especially on a competition model... and whether it was actually worth trying to de-bug....
Competition trick of going total loss, isolating charging and running lamps off a re-chargeable battery, would figure pretty high in my thunking.....
BTT do you actually have a licence to ride this thing in the first place? ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Easy-X |
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 Easy-X Super Spammer

Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 00:30 - 19 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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...and so endeth the sermon
So, back to the issue. I'm looking at the wiring diagram, yes... very odd not to have a battery for something I assume is used on the road. Engine cuts out in the dark and you're fucked! Anyhoo...
AC power comes from the stator and that drives the main lights directly. DC from the regulator drives the horn, indicators and digital dash (if you have that on your model.) The capacitor only smooths the DC circuit.
I would guess that either you're unlucky and your new reg/rec is faulty, you have the wrong reg/rec or the connection from the stator to the reg/rec is iffy, e.g. corroded connections. When you have this Mogwai issue (bright light! bright light!) do the indicators and horn work? If not then it'll be the reg/rec to stator connection. (A digital dash may or may not work, LCD ones need only a teeny-weeny amount of power to operate.)
If the indicators/horn are working then I'd take out the other bulbs connected to the AC side (main/back/numberplate/etc.) and jab a multimeter on the AC side and see what it you get at idle and at full revs.
To reiterate, the reg/rec is just that: it both regulates excess AC power and rectifies the AC to get DC.
If all else fails I suppose you could jab a meaty zener diode across the AC side to dump excess power. ____________________ Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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 ThatDippyTwat World Chat Champion

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 - Super Spammer
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| jaffa90 |
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 jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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| 1198 |
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 1198 World Chat Champion
Joined: 24 Jan 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:28 - 19 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | First question; DO you actually have a licence to be able to ride this thing?
That particular bike, may be a 125, but it isn't A1 complient or Learner-Legal. I seem to recall its not even A2 complaint as the power-to weight ratio is too high and you cant 'restrict' one enough within the licence regs.
If you no have licence, and so shouln't be using the thing on Her-Magesties, then lights not working is probably not a problem. If you want to stay legal, park it up, stay off the road. If you dont care about the legality... well, a blown light bulb wont add much to the rap-sheet, will it? (Though may give them good cause to pull you in the first place.. |
2nd question. In which of the o/p’s four total posts has he (she) said they have no licence?
3rd question. Who made it your one big crusade? Surely the o/p should be assumed a licence holder unless they say different?
4th question. Must we all show you our licence to prove we’re legal?
I wouldn’t for one second condone riding without the correct licence - but give it a rest and stop assuming!! It’s getting very very tedious and hardly likely welcoming to any new or prospective posters - especially in threads that aren’t relevant. A 50 page essay in a thread where someone has asked for advice about licences, learner bikes, yes fair enough (if relevant and to point!) but one about light bulbs blowing?
My ZZR is running a little rough at present - would you ask me if I’d taxed it? (I have incidentally!) |
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| Kawasaki Jimbo |
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 Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion

Joined: 09 Oct 2015 Karma :    
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| Easy-X |
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 Easy-X Super Spammer

Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:58 - 19 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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| stinkwheel wrote: | | Easy-X wrote: |
So, back to the issue. I'm looking at the wiring diagram, |
Got a link to that? Because I can only find ones for the bigger bikes which have a more conventional (albeit only single-phase) DC systems.
Most AC direct lighting systems have a ballast resistor in the lighting circuit somewhere to spread the load and if it's popping lights, I'd query if this is a) Intact and b) Properly earthed. They are often mounted near the headlight and can have a ropy earth connection at the best of times.
That said, it's pretty stupid to use ballast resistors in this day and age because even Royal Enfields and Vespas have 12v AC regulators fitted. It's not exactly new tech and works perfectly well. You can buy a combined single phase DC reg/rec and AC regulator from electrex for about £40.
Maybe it does have an AC reg? in any case, if the item is new and assumed to be working, I'd be checking the earth connection is good. |
I found this and it sounded right:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/90429/Ktm-125-Exc-Exc-Six-Days-200-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-250-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-Exc-Six-Days-300-Xc-Xc-W-Exc-E-Exc-E-Six-Days.html?page=61
But I admit it might not be for the exact same model/year!
Earthing could be the other thing, as you suggest. If it's like the diagram the common return for both the AC & DC sides should go back to the reg/rec but say that wasn't earthed to frame and the stator was? I dunno... far too much speculation  ____________________ Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Dec 2019 Karma :   
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Dec 2019 Karma :   
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 23:07 - 19 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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If that's the correct diagram, it's a single-phase, regulated AC/DC system. Looks like the lighting is all AC. The DC is for the horn, flashers and digital dash with a stabilising capacitor.
Are the flashers popping too?
What sort of voltage are you getting across the capacitor?
The brown wire from the reg/rec is the earth. It should have continuity with any exposed piece of metal on the frame. Some reg/recs also earth themselves where they bolt onto the frame so make sure that has a good metal-to-metal contact too.
It looks like there is a seperate self-exciting coil for the ignition so the engine shoudl run regardless.
It may also be worth checking the resistance of the lighting coil, between the yellow and white wires coming out of the stator. I don't know what it's supposed to be though. At a guess in the region of one or two ohms. Neither of those wires sghuld have continuity with earth. The AC side shouldn't be earthed, they feed and return to the lighting coil.
If there's no earth, the regulator can't dump excess. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| NorthernRider |
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 NorthernRider L Plate Warrior
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 - Super Spammer
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 44 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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