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| CraigofScotla... |
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 CraigofScotla... L Plate Warrior
Joined: 28 Dec 2011 Karma :   
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:47 - 08 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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Check out the chain, sprockets, tyres and pads. £500 for good new ones so if (as you'll often find) the tyres only have 2mm, the chain adjusters are near the back of the slots, the sprockets are hooked or badly lubed your '£300-cheaper bargain' might be more expensive than a nicely kept bike with good consumables which is up for more money.
Nice bikes (not just nicely cleaned bikes) are fairly easy to spot, as are the owners of them. Blingy junk like anodised bolts, bar ends, levers, footpegs reduce the value IMO, rather than increase it. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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| RhynoCZ |
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 RhynoCZ Super Spammer

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| Riejufixing |
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 Riejufixing World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Karma :   
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| seeyalater |
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 seeyalater Trackday Trickster

Joined: 15 Sep 2019 Karma :     
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| Ste |
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 Ste Not Work Safe

Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:25 - 08 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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If you stick the registration into https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ then you can see the MOT history of the bike to get some idea of how the current owner and previous owners have treated it.
The MOT history isn't a definitive answer for how it's been looked after but you'll have some idea of how the bike has been treated when it's not made to look shiny for the purposes of selling it. |
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| CraigofScotla... |
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 CraigofScotla... L Plate Warrior
Joined: 28 Dec 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 23:22 - 09 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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MOT is a good shout tbf. I will do that.
So many choices of bikes that arnt local Could get delivered but its a bit risky not seeing beforehand. |
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| Pigeon |
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 Pigeon World Chat Champion

Joined: 27 Sep 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 00:38 - 10 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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Have there been a lot of owners in a shortish space of time.
Not a bad thing in iitself, could be reasons. But increases the potential number of idiots to a have been custodian. Or could indicate a problem child.
Has the engine been running before you arrive.....not necessarily a bad sign, but make a note.
Is it parked on gravel or grass? If so, try and check for oil leaks, or ask to leave some paper towel down for 15 minutes.
When the bike is running, is the brightness of the lights altered by the revs? If so, would walk away or be aware at least, potential charging fault.
If they talk about DIY maintenance, are there any records? Any empty oil cans lying around (if so what brand). What's their general level of organisation. Any other vehicles there, or the property in general. Do they take care of stuff, are they on top of things.
Not essential, just builds a picture. |
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| ThatDippyTwat |
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 ThatDippyTwat World Chat Champion

Joined: 07 Aug 2016 Karma :  
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| wr6133 |
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 wr6133 World Chat Champion
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 08:12 - 10 Feb 2020 Post subject: Re: what to look for when buying 2nd hand |
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| CraigofScotland wrote: |
600 hornet sized, likely naked something. 2nd hand, potentially from 2005 ish seems to be the budget that fits |
So what is the actual budget? The above is a list of wants budgets are expressed in £.
When looking just go over it front to back.
Look beyond consumables (though do look at consumables). Brand new pads in the front calipers could have been done for sale, what does the actual caliper look like? If pull the lever then shine a torch in the caliper what do the exposed caliper pistons lips look like? Have the little rubber caps on the bleed nipples been cleaned and kept nice (if they have the owner is probably OCD)?
Exhaust headers, whats the state of the collars and bolts holding to the head? It's easy to make the pipes look good with some harpic but the collars and bolts are hard to perfect without actually removing them.
If it's a floating/semi-floating brake disc give the outer a wiggle. See how seized those bobbins are. It's a good indicator of the level of care it received as many ignore these.
Make sure the bike is cold, properly stone cold when you get there. If it's warm it probably is a bastard to start or makes horrible noises when cold..... there is some reason the seller doesn't want you to cold start it.
Remember to give the forks a good bounce and look for misting, sometimes the crap that accumulates in the dust seal can leave marks on the stanchion when you do this, if it does tell the seller it's leaky seals. If they don't have a clue there's some money off there. You can get a feel for the entire assembly here by clamping the front wheel between your legs and ragging the bars about.
Check the rear shock, as in get your phone torch shining in there (if a monoshock). Rear shocks new are not cheap, if it's shagged you want to know. Bounce the arse end up and down a bit make sure it returns to where it should.
Does 1 key match all the locks? Not essential but I'd want money off if not. It's a real pain in the arse having separate keys for ignition, tank & seat.
Check the MOT history before getting there, gives a good idea of condition and any mileage irregularities.
HPI check it before getting there. Finding a Cat D a seller didnt declare is a good way to disarm them and get the price negotiation going in your favour.
Rear sprocket, look for hooking. Chain look for condition, if the bike has a centre stand get it up on it and spin the back wheel. Front sprocket you have to go on faith, if the chain and rear look good assume it's ok. If the chain looks great but the rear sprocket looks half dead, pay attention to the chain they may have put some horrible £20 piece of crap there to look good for sale. Quick generalisation, if the chain is not branded DID, RK, AFAM or Regina then it is probably cheap Chinese shit that will last 5 minutes.
Condition of plastics..... if you buy something faired/half faired check on eBay that you can get pattern fairing kits from China. If you can then view damaged panels as on opportunity to knock money off. If you can't then walk away from knackered plastics, you don't want to buy your first bike and spend the next 3 months collecting panels from eBay.
Test ride it, check google maps beforehand so you know where you are going. You want a decent straight, no cameras. Redline at least the first few gears and accelerate as hard as you can with both wheels on the ground. If it jumps out of gears, walk away, it's been abused and you don't want to be stripping the transmission on your first bike. Similar vein try some slow speed stuff, make sure the clutch feels good.
Check for signs of track bike, not as common on a naked but not impossible (didn't the hornet have a series?). You are looking for signs of lockwire, so holes drilled through bolts. Sump plug is usually a good giveaway. Also if any body work is far better condition than the rest of the bike, this often points to track use (road fairings kept in a box, race fairings used on track).
The above is not exhaustive. If you can see it without stripping the bike, check it. If the seller is civilised they will offer you a brew anyway so you have plenty of time to go over the bike with a fine comb.
And never forget
- The seller is not your friend
- The seller wishes to extract maximum cash from you
- The seller is probably hiding something, having possibly spent many hours doing so they are not going to magically tell you just because you asked nicely.
- If you pay book/asking price you lost. |
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
Joined: 13 Feb 2020 Karma :   
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| CorriganJ |
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 CorriganJ Scooby Slapper
Joined: 04 Apr 2019 Karma :     
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
Joined: 13 Feb 2020 Karma :   
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
Joined: 13 Feb 2020 Karma :   
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| Easy-X |
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 Easy-X Super Spammer

Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 13:03 - 13 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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If the bike's your only transport it'd be a bit of a risk! Even so I'd be wary of swapping good bike for bad. If it was just a bargain bike I thought I could get working then it'd probably be the sort of stupid project I'd take on myself
The cylinders not firing is probably something you could chase down - probably an electrical issue given the smell of fuel - but I don't like the sound of that knock so to speak!
If I were to take a guess I would say there's something loose that is stuck in a pool of cold oil and, once the oil warms up a bit, it wakes up and has a stroll around your crank case You'll not know unless you take a peek inside...
Could you say to the guy you'll seriously consider it but you must look inside first and offer him a fresh oil change if you decide against the bike? ____________________ Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
Joined: 13 Feb 2020 Karma :   
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 Posted: 13:33 - 13 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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| Easy-X wrote: | If the bike's your only transport it'd be a bit of a risk! Even so I'd be wary of swapping good bike for bad. If it was just a bargain bike I thought I could get working then it'd probably be the sort of stupid project I'd take on myself
The cylinders not firing is probably something you could chase down - probably an electrical issue given the smell of fuel - but I don't like the sound of that knock so to speak!
If I were to take a guess I would say there's something loose that is stuck in a pool of cold oil and, once the oil warms up a bit, it wakes up and has a stroll around your crank case  You'll not know unless you take a peek inside...
Could you say to the guy you'll seriously consider it but you must look inside first and offer him a fresh oil change if you decide against the bike? |
Yeah man I only ride, all year round.
Scored a local job mind you as a support worker so waiting to start that so I’m not commuting now.
The guys got a video of clutch plate out and rattling. Also got a video of the bike running prior to viewing and the knock was nowhere near as bad. We sort of heard the knock then walked. He’s saying it goes away when it heats up further. We thought maybe a knackered piston...
The bikes stunning apart from the issues. It’s soooo tempting. Like i say he’s adamant it’s the clutch plate knocking. I managed to find one video on YouTube making similar knock from clutch but he never updated to whether it was fixed or not.
I’ve really researched loads before posting here so I know all the maybes kinda thing. I was hoping for someone who’s had direct experience of clutch basket issues to chip in. That’s not no say I’m brushing your input aside though. I’m honestly grateful for any help for sure.
I dunno I think because the deal is potentially so sweet I’m trying to find an excuse to say yes tbh. The fact is if it pays off I could ride through summer then punt for a tidy profit and shoot for a zx6 or r1. I mean looking at it financially the bike would break into more than mines is worth eventually. I’d sacrifice a summer of riding perhaps but could grab a winter bargain 🤔
I just wish I could have a direct “yeah that happened to me or my mate and this and that fixed it”
Like i say, I’m trying to sell it to myself by justifying the risk.
Cheers! Much appreciated!
Sorry zx10.... |
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
Joined: 13 Feb 2020 Karma :   
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 Posted: 13:45 - 13 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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| Easy-X wrote: | If the bike's your only transport it'd be a bit of a risk! Even so I'd be wary of swapping good bike for bad. If it was just a bargain bike I thought I could get working then it'd probably be the sort of stupid project I'd take on myself
The cylinders not firing is probably something you could chase down - probably an electrical issue given the smell of fuel - but I don't like the sound of that knock so to speak!
If I were to take a guess I would say there's something loose that is stuck in a pool of cold oil and, once the oil warms up a bit, it wakes up and has a stroll around your crank case  You'll not know unless you take a peek inside...
Could you say to the guy you'll seriously consider it but you must look inside first and offer him a fresh oil change if you decide against the bike? |
Oh... I did find that Honda issued a recall on certain VIN no’s for that exact fault. Bad clutch baskets. Without the VIN no I can’t be sure though, but again. It’s another possible route, although I don’t know how long recalls go and any further information on this is sparse so if anyone out there works for Honda I’d certainly be interested in info? |
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| Ste |
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 Ste Not Work Safe

Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :    
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
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| CorriganJ |
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 CorriganJ Scooby Slapper
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
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| Easy-X |
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 Easy-X Super Spammer

Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 19:50 - 13 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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There's no problem that's insurmountable given enough time or money...
If the engine's fucked how do you feel about a complete engine rebuild? If the answer isn't "that sounds like fun!" move along  ____________________ Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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| SmokeMeAKippe... |
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 SmokeMeAKippe... Derestricted Danger
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 254 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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