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Bagheera
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Joined: 07 Sep 2019
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 08 Feb 2020    Post subject: How far do you go on a service? Reply with quote

I'm in the process of servicing my XSR900 and am following the haynes guide. Oil & filter done and have cleaned up the chain & lubricated it.

But, there's a fair bit listed in the Haynes to check. How many of you follow this religiously? Is it really needed? Here are some of the things listed:-

(6000 mile service)

- check/adjust spark plugs
- check/adjust throttle sync
- check fuel and air induction system
- check adjust steering head bearings
- Check tightness of all nuts,bolts & fasteners

I don't want to cut corners but are these all really needed? On things like throttle sync, what am i looking for?

Thanks for any help...
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NJD
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 08 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't do things by mileage, but instead by feel: if you work on the bike enough, and ride it regularly, then you'll get a feel for when something needs tinkering with -- and in most cases tinker with it for the sake of it even when it doesn't because why not.

Do what you feel is best, and put as much money into it as you wan't. I know that if I followed the Honda manual by the letter, however, I'd be living off the warmth of the engine using a bike cover as a sleeping bag (the words authorized and dealer are used alot in regards to the servicing sections of the manual).

Staggered throughout the year I'd expect to play attention to: all the brake calipers, oil filter and oil change, spark plug change and an air filter change. Depending on set-up things like clutch fluid or cable lubrication, too.

In regards to steering head bearings I'd be popping it up on a stand and checking movement from side to side and then handing it over to a garage if I really felt it needed doing, but given that I'm riding a 50,000 + mileage bike that I have no intention of ever paying to have them looked at in my ownership I doubt very much that a mileage as low as yours would require such work. With things like that it all depends on how much space you've got, and to me I wouldn't consider it an "outside" job just because of the need to leave things dissembled for one or more nights.

I hate haynes, this may help:

Forum:

https://yamaha-xsr-forum.com/forum/yamaha-xsr900-discussion-forum/37-yamaha-xsr-900-service-manual

Service manual link:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0ZrcrAbnj3WUVUtWWNkbmZPUzA/view
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Bagheera
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 08 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
I don't do things by mileage, but instead by feel: if you work on the bike enough, and ride it regularly, then you'll get a feel for when something needs tinkering with -- and in most cases tinker with it for the sake of it even when it doesn't because why not.

Do what you feel is best, and put as much money into it as you wan't. I know that if I followed the Honda manual by the letter, however, I'd be living off the warmth of the engine using a bike cover as a sleeping bag (the words authorized and dealer are used alot in regards to the servicing sections of the manual).

Staggered throughout the year I'd expect to play attention to: all the brake calipers, oil filter and oil change, spark plug change and an air filter change. Depending on set-up things like clutch fluid or cable lubrication, too.

In regards to steering head bearings I'd be popping it up on a stand and checking movement from side to side and then handing it over to a garage if I really felt it needed doing, but given that I'm riding a 50,000 + mileage bike that I have no intention of ever paying to have them looked at in my ownership I doubt very much that a mileage as low as yours would require such work. With things like that it all depends on how much space you've got, and to me I wouldn't consider it an "outside" job just because of the need to leave things dissembled for one or more nights.

I hate haynes, this may help:

Forum:

https://yamaha-xsr-forum.com/forum/yamaha-xsr900-discussion-forum/37-yamaha-xsr-900-service-manual

Service manual link:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0ZrcrAbnj3WUVUtWWNkbmZPUzA/view


Thanks so much for the reply! That makes a lot of sense Smile

So would you say checking the spark plugs for example is a bit pointless? I think they're due for change at 12000 anyway.

I'll check the essential bolts to make sure everything is tight and I'd like to bleed the brakes over the summer but will try and apply some common sense. Like you say, I'll get a feel for stuff as I get to know the bike.
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 08 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before I respond I would like to say far more knowledgeable people will be along shortly, and so don't wish for you to take my opinion as gospel. I think I'm having a boring Saturday evening in comparison to some. Laughing

Bagheera wrote:
So would you say checking the spark plugs for example is a bit pointless? I think they're due for change at 12000 anyway.


Checking the ends of a spark plug and comparing it to the graph that will be inside that Haynes manual (or available via Google image search) is one of the cheapest, and simplest, ways of giving you an indication of what condition your engine is in and how its running internally without the need to rip it apart. Beside checking for metallic parts in the oil when changing it its as the basic of things to do to maintain an engine.

So, simply, I would check them. On your bike, however, it looks like a faff. Beside that manual here's a video of someone doing it to give you a visual idea of whats involved. I can't guarantee how good that person is or isn't, but gives you an idea of if you wish to attempt it with your space / skill level as is.

If you wish to check something or not -- regards any part -- is really down to how long you've owned the bike, how much you know about its service history and how its running. If you've not long had it, or not serviced it before, then personally I always go over most things staggered over a period of months to give myself a basis going forward.

With things like spark plugs I've always replaced them when I go to the trouble of taking them out, but it up to yourself on how you wish to spend your money.

Bagheera wrote:
I'll check the essential bolts to make sure everything is tight and I'd like to bleed the brakes over the summer but will try and apply some common sense. Like you say, I'll get a feel for stuff as I get to know the bike.


Be careful with checking the tightness of things, I've damaged bolt threads in the past because of an inner desire to "double check" things way after doing the job-in-hand for the sake of it.

Remember that a bolt with copper grease on the threads has its torque setting revoked and so go by hand instead (I'm not aware of the technical reason but ask me how I know -- beside research on the net after the event).

I personally don't thread lock brake caliper bolts, for example, just because I clean them so often -- I ride through winter and a few rides after riding on salted roads can lead to a reduction in stopping power (so if I did apply thread-lock I'd be buying new caliper mounting bolts every five seconds).

Bleeding breaks isn't that hard, but picking the right moment if you've got to do it outside is important: fluid absorbs moisture and if its raining etc its basically pointless. If you've got an ABS system then following the manual to the letter is important. Don't mix different type of DOT fluid, and ensure you buy the correct one as recommended in the manual (and always use that type).

With break bleeding making sure all the air bubbles are gone is important before considering the job "done." I wedge a book on the rear brake pedal overnight; or cable tie the lever to the grip overnight (both allow any air bubbles to float to the top of the fluid resivour to prevent a spongy feeling).

In regards to clutch fluid changes I cable tie the clutch for about an hour as, on my current understanding, damage can be caused if left for long periods (just as an extra piece of info).

When you inspect a brake look for seals popping out of the edge of pistons (if they do then it needs to be removed and cleaned up, or the seals replaced). Try not to over copper grease the back of brake pads (copper grease makes rubber swell).

Most the time needing to clean the brake caliper will be because the slider bracket is gunked up and its not moving around as it should. Inspect rubber boot condition and use red rubber grease to prolong the need to remove them (road salt buggers them up in no time).

Pressing the brake pedal and having the pistons push against the pads as far as they'll go out (until the pads push together and nothing moves) is a basic way to check the condition of pistons without removing them, and also to clean them. Be sure to remove any pad retaining pins or slider brackets if you choose to do this, and also that all pistons are the same size (a smaller one would pop out and the caliper loose pressure if a bigger one is present).

There's more, but that's a tef length post to get you started.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 08 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Don't mix different type of DOT fluid, and ensure you buy the correct one as recommended in the manual (and always use that type)."

Don't mix DOT 5 with any other fluid. Dot 3/4/5.1 are interchangable, only difference is the boiling point.
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steve the grease
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Joined: 26 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 09 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 comments
1.check one plug , the gap will be fine, then put it back and leave the others. with modern hi energy ignition systems plugs have a much easier life than in the past. If they need adjusting most times they need replacing.

2. It is virtually impossible to buy dot 5 brake fluid, I ordered it 3 times and was sent 5.1 3 times. When I questioned , I was told " we don't sell it , no one uses it". I had to get it from a specialist supplier. you would be most unlikely to be given it by mistake as virtually no one sells it , on ' the high street' at least.
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I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 09 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Servicing and mileage are very closely connected.
The interval is determined by the OEM based on their research and findings over many years. And other sources. Mostly calculated using evidence rather than gut feelings.
Now the trend is Condition Based Service (CBS)
Fluids are still renewed based on mileage but other areas are inspected and then changed/replaced based on condition.
Caveat: Although a part may be within service limits it should possibly be replaced before the limit is reached.
e.g.
An OEM Specification states Minimum brake pad material thickness 1mm. So it is recommend to replace at 1mm.
But good engineering practice suggests replace if wear is near to the minimum. That ensures that there will be sufficient pad material until the next inspection/service interval.
Sometimes its a phaph to get into a part and replacing when in deep is the sensible option. (Maybe not economic short-term.)
Its not really a sense of feel per se. As brakes might 'feel' okay but might be on the last 0.1 of friction material. And new pads always feel better (when burned in properly) too.
This means service at the recommended intervals or sooner if usage is more severe or in more extreme conditions.
Experience does come into it but different machines have different wear patterns.
Generally, manufacturers put their stuff together using parts and designs that follow long established servicing regimes.
Though there are many exceptions and one must RTFB for each machine for specifics.

One of my bikes has a total TomFuckery to check the engine oil level. It has a tank oil reservoir.
(There is a little plastic pipe at the side that lets you see there is oil in the tank before start up. But difficult to see.)
The method:
Take the bike for a good run to warm the engine (heat in the metal)
Stop the engine.
Beast on centre stand.
Seat pads off.
Unscrew the dipstick in the top of the tank.
Wipe any oil off.
Place the dipstick in the tank but dont screw in.
Remove and check that there is oil between the top and bottom limits on the cross-hatched area.
Top up if low. (Drain some off via the plastic pipe if too much. Embarassed )
Its a fucking phaphery and who checks oil after a run?
It has a low oil lamp too but it's poor show to leave thing so long for that hoowur come on.
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Bagheera
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 09 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really appreciate the replies, thanks!
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BTTD
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:

2. It is virtually impossible to buy dot 5 brake fluid, I ordered it 3 times and was sent 5.1 3 times. When I questioned , I was told " we don't sell it , no one uses it". I had to get it from a specialist supplier. you would be most unlikely to be given it by mistake as virtually no one sells it , on ' the high street' at least.


Shocked I just checked and it is listed on Amazon so I'm a little less worried that I won't be able to find it.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
steve the grease wrote:

2. It is virtually impossible to buy dot 5 brake fluid, I ordered it 3 times and was sent 5.1 3 times. When I questioned , I was told " we don't sell it , no one uses it". I had to get it from a specialist supplier. you would be most unlikely to be given it by mistake as virtually no one sells it , on ' the high street' at least.


Shocked I just checked and it is listed on Amazon so I'm a little less worried that I won't be able to find it.



Dot 5 brake fluid is silicon based.
It is probably not compatible with Glycol based fluid systems without some rebuild work.
i.e. ye canny jist drain the glycol out and fill with silicone. Or top up one with t' other.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
2 comments
1.check one plug , the gap will be fine, then put it back and leave the others. with modern hi energy ignition systems plugs have a much easier life than in the past. If they need adjusting most times they need replacing.

2. It is virtually impossible to buy dot 5 brake fluid, I ordered it 3 times and was sent 5.1 3 times. When I questioned , I was told " we don't sell it , no one uses it". I had to get it from a specialist supplier. you would be most unlikely to be given it by mistake as virtually no one sells it , on ' the high street' at least.


Although it's quite normal for all plugs to look the same, I would advise checking all the plugs or better fit all New.
The condition of one plug has not much to say about the others.
A bad valve, bad oil control ring, etc. can be seen by comparing the condition of each plug with a plug chart.

And bits can break/wear off plugs.

The object of the service is to check stuff at a time that is convenient to help prevent the hoowur shiting itsel on the way to college/work on a rainy Monday morning. (Monday night shift).
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far? up the pooper and everything!
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Dot 5 brake fluid is silicon based.
It is probably not compatible with Glycol based fluid systems without some rebuild work.
i.e. ye canny jist drain the glycol out and fill with silicone. Or top up one with t' other.


That's why I was concerned when I read that it was becoming difficult to find. I have a bike that's been off the road for a few years that takes DOT5.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
MCN wrote:
Dot 5 brake fluid is silicon based.
It is probably not compatible with Glycol based fluid systems without some rebuild work.
i.e. ye canny jist drain the glycol out and fill with silicone. Or top up one with t' other.


That's why I was concerned when I read that it was becoming difficult to find. I have a bike that's been off the road for a few years that takes DOT5.


It more than likely will require new brake seals if it's got a high milage/years old.
Glycol compliant seals and you're good to go.
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