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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 09 Feb 2020    Post subject: Floor Paint Reply with quote

OK everyone I had some awesome feedback with my last request (shed/house vac - I bought a Titan in the end.. I'll update the thread in a mo) and hopefully I'll get some good answers again..

I'm making my shed mostly fireproof but best of all it's clutter free. Problem is I can see the floor now and it's bugging me!
I want to paint the floor and I've never painted concrete floor before. This is untouched but old concrete and in good shape.

Questions:
Name me some suitable paints. eBay shows so many different types and I'm lost!
It's not a massive space. I want to paint around 15 sq m.
It includes 3 concrete steps - do I use the same paint on them?
The shed is not heated - is that a problem for floor paint?
The shed only sees me walking/standing on it and the bike being wheeled in and out over it.
The floor always stays dry.
Are there colours to avoid?
Makes of paint to avoid?
Floor painting pitfalls I might encounter?

I'd use another covering for the floor but potentially it will see the odd hot spark falling onto it and I don't want to risk it smouldering.

Anyone?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've no idea what's good or bad. I'd just choose a colour from whatever Screwfix or Toolstation have and try that.

One thing I learnt at sea when painting enginerooms and workshops. You need light coloured paint but not bright. So no whites. Light grey and red seem the popular colours with paint manufacturers.I wouldn't go red myself but I suppose it depends what you like.

Too bright and it causes eye strain, to dark, well it's just too dark. It will make the place dismal. Satin finish for the same reasons as well as being easier to keep clean than a matt finish.

I would quite happily give Screwfixes cheapest a go. It's got good reviews and there should be enough in one tub for 2 coats and still have some left for touching up in the future.



https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-trade-floor-paint-grey-2-5ltr/74591#product_additional_details_container
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 06:26 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
I would quite happily give Screwfixes cheapest a go. It's got good reviews and there should be enough in one tub for 2 coats and still have some left for touching up in the future.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-trade-floor-paint-grey-2-5ltr/74591#product_additional_details_container

We had this stuff to paint an extension to one of our works building. Works for low traffic/low impact (storage, corners, infrequently used places). Suck balls at high traffic-high impact (walkways, work areas). Can't see it being a problem in your average shed, but don't use it in a busy unit/industrial setting. We ended up using an Epoxy product but that's drastic overkill for a shed.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:33 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup I've spotted the epoxy products and thought them to be overkill too. Better suited to floors of busy factories etc.

Light grey is indeed what I was wanting. Red is common and too dark - once this floor is done it will brighten things no end.
Unfortunately the walls are white! Bright yes but it was laid around and found during the clearout. Better to use something than throw it lol.
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arry
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PostPosted: 09:13 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used this stuff:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71oylp-gqWL._SY450_.jpg

I can tell you that it's not diamond hard and, therefore, does not do exactly what it says on the tin. In fact, the only way it could do that is if the tin said it just came off in clumps when you rolled a vehicle over it. Might be alright with just light motorbikes but with a car in the garage as well it fared really badly. 2/10 - would not recommend.
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linuxyeti
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
I used this stuff:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71oylp-gqWL._SY450_.jpg

I can tell you that it's not diamond hard and, therefore, does not do exactly what it says on the tin. In fact, the only way it could do that is if the tin said it just came off in clumps when you rolled a vehicle over it. Might be alright with just light motorbikes but with a car in the garage as well it fared really badly. 2/10 - would not recommend.


I used something similar, it's good, except it doesn't fare too well with centre stands
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just bought a house with an unsealed concrete floor in the garage. I would also like to know what the best paint to use is, because I really want to make it a nice place to work and store bikes.

The garage is quite dusty so I'm a bit worried about making sure it's 'dust free' before starting, as sweeping will tend to break up the concrete surface. I'm lucky in that my current garage has already had the floor painted, and I just needed to paint the walls with a white emulsion paint.

I will also be limited in time as I'll have to move the bikes into the new garage quite rapidly after we get the keys to the new house.

I've seen places that offer a resin coat but I think that might be overkill...
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
I've just bought a house with an unsealed concrete floor in the garage. I would also like to know what the best paint to use is, because I really want to make it a nice place to work and store bikes.


Be interested to know what you eventually choose.

I've been in my house for a bit over a year now. My garage also has bare concrete on 2/3rds (the back 3rd has been raised, studwork walled and I laid engineered wood there).

I'm currently using a heavy carpet/mat under each bike (like the ones just inside a petrol station door), but want to to do something a bit more permanent to the floor in order to make it a nicer workspace.

I've been mulling over, resin/epoxy type paints, laying tile or cheap paint like in this thread with more hard wearing carpet type things on top.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beware of the dust thing... Prior to painting it, my own concrete workshop floor was very dusty, albeit clean and undamaged as it had been protected with an old carpet ever since it was laid. However, it still shed a lot of dust despite extensive hoovering - I suspect a dodgy screed mix was originally used TBH. I painted the whole floor with a concrete stabiliser before applyoing two coats of floor paint (bog-standard Toolstation IIRC) and it looked fab for about a week, before it all started flaking off. Under no more duress than my foot traffic either. Looks utterly shit now and I don't really know (and CBA) what to do with it.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate raining on any kunts parade but is there a DPM under the concleete floor?
If not then moisture will migrate from the ground to the top so if you seal with paint it may probably blister or just flake off.

You can still paint the hoowur but it may be a job to do each year.
You can try and see.

The issue is when you try paint then it's kind of permanent.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
MarJay wrote:
I've just bought a house with an unsealed concrete floor in the garage. I would also like to know what the best paint to use is, because I really want to make it a nice place to work and store bikes.


Be interested to know what you eventually choose.

I've been in my house for a bit over a year now. My garage also has bare concrete on 2/3rds (the back 3rd has been raised, studwork walled and I laid engineered wood there).

I'm currently using a heavy carpet/mat under each bike (like the ones just inside a petrol station door), but want to to do something a bit more permanent to the floor in order to make it a nicer workspace.

I've been mulling over, resin/epoxy type paints, laying tile or cheap paint like in this thread with more hard wearing carpet type things on top.


I posted my fix for my garage floor.
It's not terribly technical but there are a few basic tools and specific materials that will fix it.
It took me one day. Not counting emptying the shite out the garage into the garden. Then pressure wash with a good detergent.
Dry over night.
Apply a bonding coat. Like a wash.
Then mix and apply the DPM (epoxy).
Then about 1/2 later mix and pour the Self Leveling Compound.
It mixes in 20kg bags at a time and goes off in about 5mins so one cannyfuckaboot.
The surface is as hard as MDP 72 after about 1hour (possibly not as Hard).
Then cart all the shite back in.
Nice flat smooth floor like they have in Retail Warehouses like B&Q etc.
It's been down about 7 years and only lifted near the door where I knew it wasn't mixed properly.
I dug that out and scabbled the concrete below. And filled with a concrete patch kit. The patch is stuck like shite to a blanket. And it's a mai traffic zone where I drive my bikes over.
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woo
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used masonry white paint on the floor and walls.
The floor has rubbed in parts and is dull after 10 years but when i can be arsed ill just repaint with the same paint again
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BigTim
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 10 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

how about those plastic? garage floor tiles that click together?

seen em on screw fix and other sites

supposed to make floor better for walking on etc

but maybe not good with a centre stand on em

anybody tried them?
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:26 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loads of awesome input Smile

With the Ronseal I do not trust the name. I used to, not now though because it's like everything with a name - it's bought out by corporations and used as a front for poor quality products not related to the originals at all.
It does sound like I dodged a bullet with it!

This floor is dry, has a membrane and does have some dust. I was literally going to get onto my knees with a vacuum cleaner and a hand wire brush and try to remove as much as possible before placing any layers down.

I'm still very tempted by the Screwfix no nonsense mentioned at the start of the chat. Busy today but if I get done early enough this evening I'll call by and get some.
Floor needs doing soon because most of the equipment has arrived.

Actual floor coverings are a no go unfortunately BigTim. I'll be doing welding in this space and fear that a stray spark or piece of flying slag will drop and ignite the floor when I'm not there.
I was originally considering hard rubber like that used in horse boxes or simple kitchen floor tiles stuck down with bitumen. They will burn though..
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JackButler
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painting an established concrete floor is seldom successful for any length of time, regardless of how good the prep or paint.

Watch a few youtoobs of really high end workshops, they all seem to favour ceramic floor tiling.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's one of the problems of buying a house. I saw the garage floor once during a viewing, and I couldn't tell you much detal on the state of the floor. I kind of need to know before making a decision. If it's really bad I might pay one of those places to do a resin floor, but it's extraordinarily expensive. I've no doubt it'll be worth it as it will last forever and not flake off etc but if I can get a nearly as good finish with Epoxy that I do myself or similar then I would do that.

These people have a 5-6 week lead time, so it's not something that is an easy decision.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

JackButler wrote:
Painting an established concrete floor is seldom successful for any length of time, regardless of how good the prep or paint.

Watch a few youtoobs of really high end workshops, they all seem to favour ceramic floor tiling.


Ceramic Tiles crack when heavy hard shite is dropped on them.

If there is a DMP in place, pressure wash/scrub clean.
Allow to dry.
Apply an adhesive wash (helps bond the surface and the paint will sit to it better)
Paint. Allow to tack-dry.
Paint again.

I went one better.
I bought a wee bag of holographic sparkles off eBay.

Cost about a fiver.
After 2nd coat was almost dry I sprayed the sparkles on using my heat gun to blow them.
Then rollered a clear-coat over them.
Then another coat.

It looks well Disco.
But has dulled a bit where we walk in and out.

Stuff like this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254380420452
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have these, you probably need a fairly level floor.
Been down about five years now and spare ones are great to kneel on elsewhere.
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/garage-essentials/rolson-6-piece-floor-mat-set-120-x-180cm
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Ceramic Tiles crack when heavy hard shite is dropped on them.


True, however they are much cheaper than porcelain.
This guy used them and seems pretty happy with them.

https://www.12-gaugegarage.com/blog-4/index.html

"Before I go into too much detail, let me mention a few big-picture decisions that I’m very happy with. One is the decision to tile the floor. My pad was too uneven and damaged for epoxy, and after 83 years of neglect, it looked pretty terrible. But I stumbled on some ceramic tiles on sale at the Home Depot for .59/sf, and made an impulse purchase. Then I nearly destroyed the suspension of my poor old Jeep carrying the stuff. Then I gave myself a crash course in tile setting by, well, Googling ‘Tile Setting.’ The key with a floor like this is to apply thinset to both the undersides of the tiles and also the floor itself. You can’t have any voids under the tiles or they’ll be as brittle as bathroom tiles. But if you set the tiles correctly, they’ll be (in many ways) stronger than the concrete they’re sitting on. I’ve rolled jacks, dropped tools, used jack stands and dragged 800-pound cabinets over these tiles. They’ve held up fine. They were cheaper than epoxy and they can hold up to any chemical you can pour on them. Even dried-on oil-based paint comes off with a quick swipe of a razor blade. I hadn’t originally planned on using tiles for my flooring. But I’m very glad I did."

If you do manage to crack a tile once in a while, hammering it out with an SDS and laying a spare in isn't the end of the world. Using a scrap of ply for jacks and stands probably saves a lot of damage whether tiled or painted.
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
I bought a wee bag of holographic sparkles off eBay.
Cost about a fiver.
After 2nd coat was almost dry I sprayed the sparkles on using my heat gun to blow them.
Then rollered a clear-coat over them.
Then another coat.
It looks well Disco.

Nice. And do you ride a Harley, too?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 11 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
MCN wrote:
I bought a wee bag of holographic sparkles off eBay.
Cost about a fiver.
After 2nd coat was almost dry I sprayed the sparkles on using my heat gun to blow them.
Then rollered a clear-coat over them.
Then another coat.
It looks well Disco.

Nice. And do you ride a Harley, too?


No, but their outfits look fabby.
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