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kramdra
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 15 Feb 2020    Post subject: Fork seals Reply with quote

Seals have been annoying me for years. Clean them, weeks later heavy rain, and leaking again. 124k miles its not suprising but no pitting on the forks. Replaced the seals at 80k with an all balls seals and guide bushes kit and more recently with genuine. Sealmate works, if I use a heavier wieght oil and gaitors it might last a lot longer?

I think the tubes are too worn and will measure them. Are there any suitable after market stanvions or is it better to get these rechromed, any recommendarion for where?

Nothing suitable on ebay.

Thanks
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 15 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a lot of problems with mine and tried everything until I took them to a local workshop where they fitted K-Tech seals. The fella said they work well on worn surfaces because they're a marginally tighter fit. In my case I'd had the stanchions rechromed elsewhere but the theory was they'd ground the new chrome down a fraction too far. It seemed unlikely but I've not had a problem since.

Your forks could also need straightening.

https://www.pittedforks.co.uk/fork-straightening.php
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cbr_600_f6/06/picture/fork_tube_-_stanchion_-_single

£254.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive never had much luck with the after market seals. Might be worth trying a oem seal of the K-tech part, just for the oil seal, then after market kit for the rest. I dont really rate the pyramid parts bushings either, can in the kit with a bunch of the teflon worn off already..
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im not interested in replacing just the seals. It is likely the dust seal letting dirt in for the oil seal to leak. I put genuine seals in the cbr250, which is a low miles bike, and they are no better. Left fork oil has emulsified where water has got in, its been a wet autumn and winter! I will strip and rebuild.

I may just bodge a second oil seal where the dust seal lives, make up a plastic bushing for the dust seal to go 10-15mm higher. Theres 50mm or so of unused and slightly pitted fork travel before anything hits the lower clamps.

I may have said engine oil doesnt cause me any grip problems, but fork oil does! It is far more slipery.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Im not interested in replacing just the seals. It is likely the dust seal letting dirt in for the oil seal to leak.

I recall you're the guy who packs grease beneath the dust seal aiming to keep dirt out. Maybe it's counter-productive and just attracts grit?

Even very slight pitting can cause leaks.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

OEM seals and fork gaiters
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 16 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There shouldn't be much wear on the fork rods just the chrome worn off. The chrome is a corrosion protector.
If the new seals are over stretched when the rods are pushed through they can deform enough to let oil out.
Stupid question. What sort of wiper seal?
Double with spring lip.
Some hyd cyls use a harder compound seal ring that twists a little in its groove as the rod pushes out the cup. This increases the pressure exerted on the wiper lip.
That sort of seal has a cut out on one side to cause the seal to twist.
They go in one way.
Just thinking out loud.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 05:19 - 17 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
kramdra wrote:
Im not interested in replacing just the seals. It is likely the dust seal letting dirt in for the oil seal to leak.

I recall you're the guy who packs grease beneath the dust seal aiming to keep dirt out. Maybe it's counter-productive and just attracts grit?

Even very slight pitting can cause leaks.



Yes I have used grease in the past, the current seals do not need it and I have tried without. Lasts just as long, and not very. There is no pitting or roughness within the fork travel.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

No recommendations for re-chromers or aftermarket stanchions then?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-chrome process.

Grind off all existing chrome to base metal.
Acid-bath soak the shite out of the de-chromed rod.
Lay rod in chroming tank for as many hours as it takes to build up a layer of chrome.
Wash rod.
Grind lay-on chrome to a flat surface just above 'size'.
Linnish rod in linnishing machine to bring chrome layer to required surface finish. (Polished).

It may be cheaper to buy new rods.

Chroming is an environmental night-mare not many companies like the control hassle so chromers are thin on the ground.

Is your Google Broken?
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I bought the FJ1200 3XW that I ended up rebuilding,a pair of brand new ABE produced fork legs were included in the package.These were bought via M&P but should be available via the shop directly.
They fitted perfectly together with pattern seals that were also part of the package.The new oil that I used was not anything fancy like Ohlins,but was of a reasonably well known make.I also used red seal grease when installing the new seals,together with OEM bushes.

After several rides across the Continent they are holding up well.

https://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 22 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the process. Google does shops and adverts, it does not do recommendations and experience.

Thanks Fizzer.
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 22 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brooks barn sell most things suspension related.

Dunno if their aftermarket tubes are much cop or not. I've got them on the wifes CBR and they seem to be holding oil ok.

They do have a physical shop, which means there is an actual door to bang on if they turn out to be shite.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 5 years, 106 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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